What you need to know before you start

Replacing a submersible well pump is a job you can do yourself if you have basic plumbing skills and the right tools, but it requires careful planning and safety precautions. A submersible pump sits at the bottom of your well and pushes water up through a single pipe to your house. When it fails, you lose water pressure entirely — there is no partial function to work around.

The job involves pulling the pump and pipe out of the well (which can weigh 50 to 200 pounds depending on depth), disconnecting the electrical line, installing a new pump, and lowering everything back down. Most homeowners can handle this in a day if the well is shallow (under 100 feet). Deeper wells and older installations may need a professional because the pipe is heavier, the electrical connections are more complex, or the well casing is corroded.

Before you begin, turn off power to the pump at the breaker and confirm the power is off with a voltage tester. You will also need to know your well depth, the pump model number, and whether your current pump is 2-wire or 3-wire (this affects how you reconnect power).

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off power at the breaker and verify it is off with a voltage tester before touching any electrical connections.
  • You will need a pipe wrench, a well seal puller or rope, a voltage tester, and a new pump matched to your well depth and existing pipe size.
  • The pump and pipe come out as one unit; you disconnect the electrical line at the top, then pull the entire assembly up and out of the well.
  • The new pump connects to the same pipe and electrical line, so matching the old pump's specifications prevents leaks and electrical problems.
  • If your well is deeper than 100 feet or the pump will not budge, call a well contractor rather than risk damaging the casing or injuring yourself.

Gather the right tools and materials

You will need a pipe wrench (adjustable, 10 to 14 inches), a voltage tester (non-contact or multimeter), a well seal puller or a length of rope rated for at least 200 pounds, a bucket, a flashlight, and a helper. The pipe wrench removes the pump from the discharge pipe at the top of the well; the voltage tester confirms the power is truly off; the rope or puller helps you lift the pump assembly out of the well.

Buy a replacement pump before you start. Take a photo of the nameplate on your current pump or write down the model number, horsepower, and voltage. Bring this information to a well supply shop or call a local well contractor to confirm the new pump matches your well depth, pipe diameter (usually 1.25 inches), and electrical setup (2-wire or 3-wire). Buying the wrong pump means a second trip and more downtime.

You will also need a new drop pipe (the pipe that runs down the well) if the old one is corroded, cracked, or has been in the ground for more than 20 years. If the old pipe looks sound, you can reuse it. Have a bucket ready to catch water that drains from the pipe as you pull it up.

Turn off power and disconnect the electrical line

Locate the breaker that controls the well pump and switch it to the off position. Use a non-contact voltage tester on the electrical wires connected to the pump to confirm there is no power. Touch the tester to the wires at the top of the well where they connect to the pump. If the tester does not light up or beep, the power is off and it is safe to proceed.

If your pump uses a 2-wire setup, the two wires are straightforward twisted together or connected with a wire nut. Untwist them or unscrew the nut and separate the wires. If your pump uses a 3-wire setup (common in 240-volt systems), there are three wires — usually black, red, and green or bare copper. Take a photo of how they are connected before you disconnect them, or label each wire with tape so you can reconnect them the same way on the new pump.

Once the wires are disconnected, find them to the well casing or a nearby post so they do not fall into the well. You will need them later to connect the new pump.

Remove the pump and pipe from the well

The pump sits at the bottom of the well, connected to the discharge pipe that runs up to your house. To remove it, you pull the entire assembly — pump and pipe together — straight up and out of the well. This is the hardest part of the job and where a helper makes a real difference.

Attach a rope or well seal puller to the top of the pipe, just above where it enters the well casing. If you use a rope, tie it securely around the pipe with a knot that will not slip. If you use a puller (a metal tool that grips the pipe), follow the manufacturer's instructions. Pull slowly and steadily. The pipe will come up in sections as the weight of the water inside it drains out. Stop every few feet and let water drain into the bucket.

If the pipe does not move after 30 seconds of steady pulling, stop. Do not force it. Forcing a stuck pipe can crack the well casing or break the pipe inside the well, both expensive problems. Call a well contractor with a motorized winch instead. Shallow wells (under 50 feet) usually come out easily; deeper wells and corroded pipes often need professional equipment.

Once the pump clears the top of the well casing, lay it on the ground and disconnect it from the discharge pipe using a pipe wrench. The pump unscrews from the pipe. Set the old pump aside.

Install the new pump on the discharge pipe

Thread the new pump onto the discharge pipe by hand first, then tighten it with a pipe wrench. Do not over-tighten — hand-tight plus a quarter turn with the wrench is enough. Over-tightening can crack the pump housing or strip the threads.

If you are using a new discharge pipe, connect it to the pump the same way. Make sure the pipe is the same diameter as the old one (usually 1.25 inches) and rated for well use. Do not use standard plumbing pipe; well pipe is thicker and rated for the pressure and depth.

Before you lower the pump back into the well, inspect the well casing opening for debris, rust, or sharp edges. Wipe it clean with a cloth. Any debris can damage the new pump as it goes down, and sharp edges can cut the electrical line.

Lower the pump back into the well

Attach the rope or puller to the top of the discharge pipe again. Lower the pump and pipe slowly into the well, hand over hand or with a motorized winch if you have one. Go slowly — rushing can damage the pump or kink the electrical line. As the pipe goes down, it will fill with water; this is normal and expected.

Lower the pump until it reaches the bottom of the well. You will feel a slight change in resistance when it seats. Do not drop it or let it fall the last few feet. Once the pump is at the bottom, the discharge pipe should be fully extended from the bottom of the well to the top of the casing.

Reconnect the discharge pipe to your house water line using a pipe wrench. If you removed the old pipe from the house connection, you may need to clean the threads or explore plumber's thread seal tape before reconnecting. Hand-tighten first, then snug it with the wrench — again, do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the electrical line and test

Connect the electrical wires to the new pump in the same order they were connected to the old one. If you labeled the wires with tape, match the labels. If you took a photo, refer to it. For a 2-wire pump, twist the wires together or use a wire nut. For a 3-wire pump, connect black to black, red to red, and green (or bare copper) to green or the ground screw on the pump.

Once the wires are connected, turn the breaker back on. The pump should start when ready and build pressure in the system. Listen for normal pump operation — a steady hum or slight vibration. If the pump makes a grinding noise, squeals, or does not start, turn the breaker off when ready and check your electrical connections.

Open a faucet in your house and let water run for a minute. The water may be discolored or contain air bubbles at first; this is normal. After a minute or two, the water should run clear and steady. If water does not come out or pressure is very low, the pump may not be seated properly at the bottom of the well, or the discharge pipe may be kinked or blocked.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my pump is 2-wire or 3-wire?

Look at the electrical wires where they connect to the pump at the top of the well. If there are two wires, it is 2-wire. If there are three wires, it is 3-wire. You can also check the nameplate on the pump itself — it will list the voltage and wire configuration. A 120-volt pump is usually 2-wire; a 240-volt pump is usually 3-wire.

Can I reuse the old discharge pipe?

Yes, if it is in good condition. Look for cracks, corrosion, or dents. If the pipe is more than 20 years old, has visible rust inside, or has been leaking, replace it. A new pipe costs $50 to $150 depending on depth and diameter. Reusing a bad pipe can cause leaks or restrict water flow.

What if the pump will not come out of the well?

Stop pulling when ready. A stuck pump usually means corrosion, sediment buildup, or a kinked pipe. Forcing it can damage the well casing or break the pipe inside the well. Call a well contractor with a motorized winch. They can pull it safely and diagnose why it is stuck.

How long does it take to replace a submersible pump?

A shallow well (under 100 feet) usually takes 4 to 6 hours with a helper. Deeper wells take longer because pulling and lowering the pipe takes more time and care. If you run into problems — a stuck pump, corroded connections, or electrical issues — add several more hours.

Do I need to bleed air from the system after installation?

No. The pump will push air out of the discharge pipe on its own as it starts. Open a faucet and let water run for a minute or two until it runs clear. If you have a pressure tank, it may take a few pump cycles to fill and pressurize properly, but this happens automatically.