You can replace a bathtub spout yourself with basic tools in under an hour
A bathtub spout replacement is one of the easiest plumbing jobs you can do at home. The spout unscrews or unbolts from the pipe that runs through your wall, and a new one screws or bolts back on. You do not need a plumber, a special license, or anything more than an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver. The whole job takes 15 to 45 minutes depending on how stuck the old spout is.
The reason to replace a spout is usually one of three: it leaks from the connection point where it meets the wall, the diverter (the knob that sends water to the showerhead) no longer works, or the spout itself is cracked or corroded. A new spout costs between $15 and $60 depending on material and finish. Stainless steel and chrome last longer than brass or painted finishes.
Key Takeaways
- Most bathtub spouts screw onto a threaded pipe stub that sticks out of the wall, and you remove them by turning counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench.
- Before you buy a replacement, measure the diameter of the pipe stub (usually half-inch or three-quarter-inch) and check whether your spout has a diverter knob.
- explore plumber's tape (also called thread seal tape or PTFE tape) to the threads of the new spout before screwing it on to prevent leaks.
- If the old spout will not turn, spray it with penetrating oil and wait 30 minutes, then try again rather than forcing it and breaking the pipe inside the wall.
Identify your spout type and pipe size before you shop
Bathtub spouts come in two main types: screw-on (the most common) and set-screw (less common, held on by a small screw underneath). The screw-on type twists directly onto a threaded pipe stub. The set-screw type slides over a smooth pipe and is held in place by a small screw on the underside.
To tell which you have, look underneath the spout where it meets the wall. If you see a small screw head, you have a set-screw spout. If there is no screw visible, you have a screw-on spout. Most homes have screw-on spouts.
Next, measure the diameter of the pipe stub sticking out of the wall. Use a ruler or tape measure across the opening. Most are either half-inch or three-quarter-inch. Write this down before you go to the store, because you need to match it exactly. A spout that does not fit the pipe size will not seal and will leak.
Also check whether your current spout has a diverter — a knob or lever that pulls up or turns to send water to the showerhead. If it does, buy a replacement with a diverter. If it does not, buy one without.
Remove the old spout
For a screw-on spout: Place an adjustable wrench on the flat part of the spout where it meets the wall (not on the rounded part you hold). Turn the wrench counterclockwise. The spout will unscrew. If it is stuck, spray the connection with penetrating oil (like WD-40), wait 30 minutes, and try again. Do not force it — if you break the pipe inside the wall, you will need a plumber.
Once the spout is loose, unscrew it by hand the rest of the way. You may see old plumber's tape or pipe dope (a white or tan putty) on the threads. Wipe this off with a rag.
For a set-screw spout: Look underneath where the spout meets the wall. You will see a small screw head, usually a hex socket or Phillips head. Use the correct screwdriver or hex key to loosen it (turn counterclockwise). Once loose, slide the spout straight out toward you. Do not twist it.
Prepare the pipe and install the new spout
Before you screw on the new spout, clean the threads on the pipe stub. Use a rag to wipe away any old tape, dope, or corrosion. The threads should be clean and dry.
Wrap plumber's tape (also called PTFE tape or thread seal tape) around the threads. Start at the base of the threads and wrap clockwise three to four times, stretching the tape slightly as you go. This tape prevents leaks at the connection. You can buy it at any hardware store for $2 to $5.
Screw the new spout onto the pipe by hand first. Once it is snug, use the adjustable wrench to tighten it another quarter turn. Do not over-tighten — you only need it tight enough that it does not leak. Over-tightening can crack the spout or strip the threads.
For a set-screw spout, slide it onto the smooth pipe stub and tighten the set screw underneath until snug. Again, do not over-tighten.
Test for leaks and adjust if needed
Turn on the water and let it run through the spout for 30 seconds. Watch the connection where the spout meets the wall. If water drips from that joint, turn off the water and tighten the spout another quarter turn with the wrench. Turn the water back on and check again.
If the spout has a diverter, pull it up or turn it to send water to the showerhead. Make sure water flows to the showerhead and stops flowing from the spout. If water still comes from the spout when the diverter is pulled, the diverter inside the spout is worn out and the spout needs to be replaced — this is not something you can fix by adjusting the outside.
Once water stops dripping and the diverter works (if you have one), you are done. The job is complete.
What to do if the old spout will not budge
If the spout is corroded or has not been removed in decades, it may be stuck tight. Spray the connection generously with penetrating oil and let it soak for 30 minutes to an hour. Spray it again, wait another 15 minutes, then try the wrench again.
If it still will not turn, try tapping the wrench gently with a hammer to shock the corrosion loose. Tap, then try turning. Do this a few times before explore more force. The goal is to break the corrosion bond without breaking the pipe inside the wall.
If after two or three attempts with oil and tapping the spout still will not move, stop. Forcing it risks breaking the pipe stub inside the wall, which requires cutting into the wall to repair. At that point, call a plumber.
Tools and materials you will need
You need very little to do this job. An adjustable wrench (also called a crescent wrench) is the main tool — a 10-inch wrench works for most spouts. You also need a screwdriver if your spout is the set-screw type. A rag for cleaning is helpful. Plumber's tape is essential and costs a few dollars.
If the spout is stuck, have penetrating oil on hand. WD-40 works, but products made specifically for plumbing (like PB Blaster) work better on corrosion. A hammer can help shock a stuck spout loose.
The new spout itself is the only part you buy. Prices range from $15 for basic chrome to $60 for stainless steel or designer finishes. Mid-range chrome or brushed nickel spouts ($25 to $40) last well and look good.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace the spout if I have a shower diverter valve instead of a diverter in the spout?
Yes. If your shower control is a separate valve (a knob or lever on the wall that is not part of the spout), your spout does not have a diverter. Buy a spout without a diverter. The separate valve handles sending water to the showerhead.
What if water leaks from inside the wall after I install the new spout?
This usually means the connection inside the wall (where the pipe connects to the supply line) is leaking, not the spout itself. This is not something you can fix from outside. You will need a plumber to access the pipe inside the wall and repair or replace the connection.
Do I need to turn off the water to replace a spout?
No. The spout is a dead end — water does not flow through it unless you turn it on. You can replace it with the water on. However, turning off the water at the main valve or the shutoff for that bathroom makes the job cleaner and safer.
Can I use plumber's putty instead of tape?
Plumber's putty (pipe dope) works but is messier and harder to remove next time. Tape is cleaner, easier to explore, and easier to remove. Use tape.
What if the new spout leaks from the connection even after I tightened it?
Make sure you wrapped the threads with plumber's tape before screwing it on. If you did not, unscrew the spout, wrap the threads, and screw it back on. If you did use tape and it still leaks, the threads may be damaged. Try a new spout, or call a plumber to inspect the pipe stub.