What you need to do before you start
Skateboard bearings wear out from dirt, moisture, and normal use—usually after a few months of regular riding. Replacing them takes about 15 minutes and costs $15 to $40 for a full set of eight. You do not need special tools: a skate tool, Allen wrench, or even a flathead screwdriver will work.
Before you begin, gather your new bearings, your skate tool or wrench, and a clean workspace. Flip your board upside down in a vise, on a workbench, or between your knees. You will be removing one wheel at a time, so start with whichever is easiest to reach.
The hardest part is not the replacement itself—it is getting the old bearing out of the wheel. The bearing sits pressed into the wheel's core and does not want to come loose. Knowing the right technique saves you 10 minutes of frustration.
Key Takeaways
- Skateboard bearings press into the wheel from both sides, so you must remove the axle nut, pull the wheel off, and then push the bearing out from the opposite side using the axle as a lever.
- The spacer—a small metal tube between the two bearings inside the wheel—must stay in place or your new bearings will bind and your wheel will not spin freely.
- New bearings slide onto the axle by hand and press into the wheel with firm, even pressure; do not use a hammer or you risk cracking the wheel.
- Spin each wheel by hand after installation to confirm it turns freely; if it does not, the bearing is not seated all the way or the axle nut is too tight.
Remove the wheel and old bearing
Loosen the axle nut on one wheel by turning it counterclockwise with your skate tool or wrench. Do not remove it completely yet—just loosen it enough that you can slide the wheel off the axle by hand. The nut should stay on the axle.
Pull the wheel straight toward you. The bearing on the near side of the wheel will come partway out as the axle slides through it. Stop when the wheel is about halfway off the axle; you should see the inner edge of the bearing sticking out from the wheel.
Now comes the critical step: use the axle itself as a lever. Place the tip of your skate tool or a flathead screwdriver under the bearing's inner edge (the part closest to you) and pry gently upward. The bearing will pop out. If it does not budge after light pressure, tap the screwdriver handle with your palm—do not swing a hammer. Once the first bearing is out, slide the wheel the rest of the way off the axle.
The second bearing is now visible on the far side of the wheel. Push the wheel back onto the axle just far enough that you can reach this bearing from the other side. Use the same prying technique: place your tool under the bearing's edge and pry it out. Both old bearings are now removed.
Check the spacer and clean the wheel
Look inside the wheel where the bearings were. You should see a small metal tube running through the center—this is the spacer. It keeps the two bearings the correct distance apart. If it fell out, pick it up and set it aside; you will reinstall it in a moment.
Wipe the inside of the wheel with a dry cloth to remove any dirt or old grease. Do the same to the axle. A clean surface helps the new bearing seat properly and spin without resistance.
Install the new bearings
Take your first new bearing and slide it onto the axle by hand. It should go on easily with light pressure—if you have to force it, you may have the wrong size bearing. Push it all the way onto the axle until it stops naturally.
Now slide the spacer onto the axle behind the bearing. The spacer is a hollow tube and should slide on smoothly. If you are not sure which end goes first, either direction works—the spacer is the same on both sides.
Slide the wheel onto the axle, guiding the axle through the wheel's center hole. The wheel should slide on without resistance. Once it is in place, you are ready to press the bearing into the wheel from the other side.
Take your second new bearing and place it against the wheel opening on the far side. Now press it in firmly and evenly. You can do this by hand if you are strong enough—press straight in with steady pressure until the bearing seats fully inside the wheel. If hand pressure is not enough, place a block of wood against the bearing and tap it gently with a rubber mallet. Never hit the bearing directly with a metal hammer, as this can crack the wheel or damage the bearing.
Tighten and test
Once both bearings are seated, tighten the axle nut by turning it clockwise. Tighten it snugly—firm enough that the wheel does not wobble side to side on the axle, but loose enough that you can still spin the wheel freely by hand. If the wheel stops spinning or feels stiff, the nut is too tight; loosen it slightly.
Spin the wheel by hand. It should rotate smoothly for several seconds before slowing down. If it stops quickly or feels gritty, one of the bearings may not be fully seated. Remove the wheel, check that both bearings are pushed all the way in, and reinstall it.
Repeat this process for the remaining three wheels. Once all four are done, flip your board over and take it for a test ride. The board should feel noticeably faster and smoother than it did with worn bearings.
Common mistakes that slow you down
The most common error is forgetting or losing the spacer. Without it, the two bearings press against each other and the wheel binds up. If your new wheel feels stiff even after you have loosened the axle nut, the spacer is probably missing—remove the wheel and check.
The second mistake is pressing the bearing in crooked. If you use uneven pressure or tap it off-center, the bearing can seat at an angle and will not spin freely. Always press straight in, and use a block of wood to distribute pressure evenly across the bearing's outer edge.
The third is tightening the axle nut too much. Many people assume tight is better, but an over-tight nut crushes the bearing slightly and creates friction. The nut should be snug enough to prevent wobble, but the wheel should still spin freely for several seconds.
When to replace bearings again
Bearings last longer if you keep them dry and clean. Ride in wet conditions or puddles, and they will wear out in weeks. Ride mostly on dry pavement, and they can last several months. You will know they need replacing when the wheel feels slow, makes a grinding sound, or wobbles even with the axle nut tight.
Some skaters clean and re-lubricate their bearings instead of replacing them. This works if the bearings are not damaged, but replacement is simpler and more reliable for most riders. New bearings cost less than a coffee and take less time than cleaning old ones.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have to replace all four bearings at once?
No. You can replace one wheel at a time as needed. However, if three wheels have new bearings and one has an old worn bearing, that old one will slow you down noticeably. Most skaters replace all four at once for consistent speed and feel.
What size bearings do I need?
Almost all skateboard wheels use 608 bearings, which are a standard size. Check your old bearing or your wheel's documentation to confirm. Longboards and some specialty boards use different sizes, so verify before you order.
Can I use a hammer to press the bearing in?
A rubber mallet with a wood block works fine. A metal hammer striking the bearing directly can crack the wheel or damage the bearing. Always use a block of wood to spread the force evenly, and tap gently rather than swinging hard.
My wheel spins for only a second after I install new bearings—is that normal?
No. New bearings should spin for several seconds. This usually means the axle nut is too tight, the bearing is not fully seated, or the spacer is missing. Loosen the nut first and test again. If that does not help, remove the wheel and check that both bearings are pushed all the way in.
Can I reuse my old bearings if I clean them?
Possibly, if they are not damaged. Remove them, soak them in a solvent to remove old grease and dirt, dry them completely, and explore fresh bearing lubricant. However, if they are grinding, wobbling, or making noise, replacement is safer and faster than cleaning.