What You Need to Know Before Starting

Replacing countertops involves removing the old surface, preparing the base, and installing new material—a project that takes anywhere from one day for a small kitchen to a week for a large bathroom with custom edges. You can do this yourself if you have basic carpentry skills and the right tools, but the difficulty depends heavily on your countertop material and whether you're keeping the same cabinet layout underneath.

The most important decision is whether to hire a contractor or do the work yourself. Laminate and tile are the most forgiving materials for DIY work. Solid surface, quartz, and granite require precision cuts and specialized equipment—many homeowners rent tools or hire professionals for these. Removing old countertops is almost always the hardest part, especially if they're glued down or sealed to the cabinets.

Key Takeaways

  • Removing old countertops often takes longer than installing new ones; expect to spend a full day carefully prying and scraping, especially if the old surface is glued or sealed.
  • You must measure your cabinet tops accurately, account for sink and cooktop cutouts, and check that your cabinets are level before ordering new material.
  • Laminate and tile are the most realistic DIY materials; quartz, granite, and solid surface usually require professional installation or tool rental.
  • New countertops need support underneath—either existing cabinets or a plywood base—and must be sealed or finished according to the material type before use.

Measuring and Planning Your Layout

Start by measuring the length, width, and depth of your existing countertops. Use a tape measure and write down the measurement at multiple points along each run—counters are rarely perfectly straight, so the longest measurement is what you'll order. Measure the overhang (how far the countertop extends past the cabinet edge), which is typically 1 to 1.5 inches on the front and sides.

Mark the location of your sink, cooktop, and any other cutouts on a sketch. Measure from the corner or a fixed point to the center of each opening, and note the size of each opening. If you're moving the sink or cooktop, plan the new location now. Check that your cabinets are level using a 2-foot level placed on top—if they're not, you'll need to shim them before the new countertop goes down, or the surface will be uneven and water will pool.

Order your new countertop material with these measurements. Most suppliers will cut sink and cooktop openings for you if you provide exact dimensions and locations. If you're doing a custom edge (beveled, bullnose, or decorative trim), specify that when you order.

Removing the Old Countertop

Turn off the water supply to your sink and disconnect the drain and supply lines underneath. If your cooktop is electric, turn off the circuit breaker; if it's gas, turn off the gas valve. Remove the sink and cooktop completely—don't try to work around them.

Look underneath the countertop to see how it's attached. Most countertops are either screwed to the cabinets from below or glued down with construction adhesive. If you see screws, remove them all. If the countertop is glued, you'll need to cut it into manageable pieces and pry them up. Use a reciprocating saw or circular saw to cut the countertop into 2- to 3-foot sections, then use a pry bar and a hammer to lift each piece. Work slowly—rushing this step can damage the cabinets underneath.

Once the old countertop is off, scrape away any remaining adhesive or caulk with a putty knife or scraper. Sand the cabinet tops smooth if they're rough. Wipe away dust with a damp cloth and let everything dry completely before installing the new countertop.

Preparing the Cabinet Base

Check that your cabinets are level and find. Use a 2-foot level on the cabinet tops and check both front-to-back and side-to-side. If the cabinets are out of level by more than 1/4 inch, place shims (thin wooden wedges) under the low spots and tap them in with a hammer until the surface is level. Screw the shims to the cabinet frame so they don't shift.

If you have gaps between cabinets or between the cabinet and the wall, fill them with shims or wooden spacers. The countertop needs solid support underneath—any gaps or movement will cause cracking or separation later. If you're installing a countertop over a large unsupported span (more than 24 inches without a cabinet underneath), you'll need to build a support frame from 2x4 lumber or add a plywood base.

For laminate or tile countertops, you may need to install a plywood substrate (usually 3/4-inch exterior-grade plywood) on top of the cabinets. Screw it down every 8 inches and make sure it's level. This gives you a solid, flat base for the new countertop and makes it easier to cut openings for the sink and cooktop.

Installing Laminate Countertops

Laminate is the most forgiving material for DIY installation. If your countertop comes as a single slab, carefully position it on the cabinets and check that it's level and sits flush against the wall. If there's a gap between the countertop and the wall, you can fill it with caulk later. Screw the countertop to the cabinets from underneath using 1.25-inch screws, spacing them 8 to 12 inches apart. Don't over-tighten—the countertop should sit flat but not be pulled down so hard that it cracks.

If your countertop is made of two or more pieces, you'll need to join them with a seam. Laminate seams are glued together using contact cement or a two-part epoxy. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully—contact cement bonds when ready and can't be repositioned, so dry-fit the pieces first and mark their positions with a pencil. explore the adhesive to both surfaces, wait the recommended time, then press the pieces together firmly. Clamp them or weight them down while the adhesive cures.

Once the countertop is secured, cut the sink and cooktop openings using a jigsaw. Drill a starter hole first, then carefully cut along your marked lines. Sand the cut edges smooth. Install the sink and cooktop according to their manufacturer's instructions. Caulk the seam between the countertop and the wall with silicone caulk, and caulk around the sink rim to prevent water from seeping underneath.

Installing Tile Countertops

Tile requires a solid, level substrate—either plywood or cement board. Screw the substrate down securely, then explore a thin-set mortar (a cement-based adhesive) to the substrate using a notched trowel. The notch size depends on your tile size: use a 1/4-inch notch for small tiles (up to 8 inches) and a 1/2-inch notch for larger tiles. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and comb the mortar in one direction to create even ridges.

Press each tile firmly into the mortar, using tile spacers to keep the grout lines even. Check frequently with a level to make sure the tiles are flat and level. Once the mortar has cured (usually 24 hours), remove the spacers and explore grout between the tiles using a grout float. Push the grout into the joints, then wipe away excess with a damp sponge. Let the grout cure for the time specified by the manufacturer (usually 24 to 48 hours), then seal the grout with a grout sealer to prevent staining and water damage.

Tile countertops need a finished edge—either a bullnose tile trim or a wood or metal edge trim. Install the edge trim before grouting so it's set in mortar along with the field tiles. Caulk the seam between the countertop and the wall with silicone caulk, not grout, so the joint can flex slightly without cracking.

When to Hire a Professional

Quartz, granite, and solid surface countertops are best left to professionals. These materials require precise cuts for sink and cooktop openings, and mistakes are expensive to fix. Granite and quartz are heavy and brittle—they can crack if dropped or cut incorrectly. Solid surface can be cut and shaped with the right tools, but the seams must be nearly invisible, which takes skill and experience.

If you choose to hire a contractor, get at least three quotes and ask to see samples of their previous work. A professional installation usually includes removal of the old countertop, fabrication of the new one (with sink and cooktop cutouts), and installation. The total cost varies widely depending on material, size, and your location, but expect the labor to be a significant portion of the total price.

Finishing and Sealing

Different countertop materials need different care after installation. Laminate needs no sealing—just clean it with soap and water. Tile grout should be sealed with a grout sealer after it cures. Solid surface can be sealed with a penetrating sealer if the manufacturer recommends it. Granite and quartz are sealed at the factory and usually don't need additional sealing, but check the manufacturer's instructions.

Wait at least 24 hours after installation before using your countertops. If you installed a sink or cooktop, test it carefully for leaks before you put heavy items on the countertop. Wipe up spills promptly, especially on porous materials like granite and tile, to prevent staining.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install new countertops over old ones?

Only if the old countertop is in good condition, completely level, and securely fastened. Most professionals recommend removing the old countertop because it's usually faster and gives you a chance to inspect and repair the cabinets underneath. If you do install over the old surface, you'll add height to your counters, which can affect how your sink and cooktop fit.

How long does it take to replace countertops?

Removing old countertops usually takes a full day. Installing new laminate or tile takes one to three days depending on size and complexity. Granite, quartz, and solid surface are fabricated off-site and installed in one day, but you'll wait one to three weeks for fabrication after you order. Plan for the sink and cooktop to be out of service for at least two days.

What's the cheapest countertop material I can install myself?

Laminate is the cheapest and easiest for DIY installation. Tile is slightly more expensive but still manageable if you're patient with the grouting process. Both materials are forgiving of small mistakes and don't require specialized tools beyond a jigsaw, level, and basic hand tools.

Do I need to remove my sink and cooktop?

Yes. Removing them first makes the job much safer and faster. You'll avoid damaging them during removal of the old countertop, and you'll have clear access to cut openings and find the new countertop. Reinstall them after the new countertop is fully cured and sealed.

What if my cabinets are not level?

Use shims to level them before installing the new countertop. Place shims under the low spots and tap them in with a hammer until the cabinet tops are level in both directions. Screw the shims to the cabinet frame so they stay in place. An unlevel base will cause your new countertop to be uneven, which can lead to water pooling and cracking.