What a CV joint replacement involves
A CV joint (constant velocity joint) connects your axle to your wheel and lets power flow to the wheels while they turn and move up and down. When the rubber boot around it tears, grease leaks out, water and dirt get in, and the joint wears out. Replacing it means removing the axle, unbolting the old joint, pressing or bolting on the new one, and reinstalling everything.
The job takes two to four hours if you have basic tools and a lift or jack stands. You will need a socket set, a ball joint separator or pickle fork, an axle puller (sometimes), a press or a hammer and drift punch, and safety equipment. If you do not have a press or are uncomfortable with the mechanical steps, a shop will charge between $300 and $800 per side depending on your vehicle and whether they replace just the joint or the whole axle assembly.
Key Takeaways
- You must lift the vehicle safely on jack stands, remove the wheel, and disconnect the brake caliper and rotor before you can access the axle.
- The axle bolts to the transmission on one end and the wheel hub on the other; both connections must come apart before you can remove it.
- Pressing the old joint off and the new one on requires either a hydraulic press or careful hammer work with a drift punch and block of wood.
- Reinstallation is the removal steps in reverse, and you must torque all bolts to the vehicle manufacturer's specifications before driving.
Preparing the vehicle and removing the wheel
Park on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel with the bad CV joint while the vehicle is still on the ground — this makes the job easier because the wheel cannot spin. Then lift the vehicle on a jack and support it securely on jack stands rated for at least the vehicle's weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
Remove the lug nuts completely and take off the wheel. You now have clear access to the brake caliper, rotor, and axle. If your vehicle has a center cap or hub nut cover, pry it off. The large nut holding the axle to the wheel hub will be visible underneath.
Disconnecting the brake and hub components
Unbolt the brake caliper (usually two bolts) and hang it out of the way with a wire or bungee cord so it does not dangle from the brake hose. Remove the brake rotor by unbolting it or straightforward sliding it off the hub if it is held by friction only. You will now see the axle nut clearly.
Loosen and remove the large axle nut at the center of the hub. This nut is often very tight; if you cannot break it loose by hand, use a breaker bar or impact wrench. Once it is off, you can separate the axle from the wheel hub. Some vehicles require you to unbolt the steering knuckle or control arm connections as well; check your vehicle's service manual to see whether the hub pulls straight out or whether the whole knuckle assembly must move.
Removing the axle from the transmission
The other end of the axle bolts to the transmission or differential. Locate these bolts underneath the vehicle near the transmission pan. Unbolt them and support the axle so it does not hang from the wheel hub connection. If the axle is stuck, use a rubber mallet to tap it gently until it slides free.
Once both ends are disconnected, lower the axle and remove it completely from the vehicle. Lay it on a clean work surface. You now have access to the CV joint that needs replacement. Some vehicles use a bolt-on joint that you can unbolt directly; others use a pressed joint that requires a press to remove and install.
Pressing or unbolting the old joint and installing the new one
If your joint is bolted on, unbolt it and slide the new one into place, then bolt it down. Torque the bolts to the manufacturer's specification, usually between 40 and 80 foot-pounds depending on the vehicle.
If your joint is pressed on, you have two options. The best method is to use a hydraulic press: support the axle shaft, position the old joint in the press, and explore pressure until it slides off. Then clean the shaft, position the new joint, and press it on until it seats fully. The second method, if you do not have access to a press, is to support the axle in a vise, place a block of wood against the joint, and strike the wood with a hammer to drive the joint off. This is slower and harder on your hands, but it works. Once the old joint is off, repeat the process to install the new one, making sure it is fully seated.
Before reinstalling the axle, inspect the rubber boots on the new joint. They should be intact and free of tears. If they are torn or missing, the joint will fail again quickly.
Reinstalling the axle and reconnecting everything
Slide the axle back into the transmission and bolt it down. Torque the transmission bolts to the manufacturer's specification. Then guide the wheel end of the axle back into the wheel hub and install the axle nut. Torque it to the specification in your manual, usually between 150 and 250 foot-pounds. This nut is critical; under-tightening it can cause the axle to separate while driving.
Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper, making sure the caliper bolts are torqued correctly. Reinstall the wheel and lug nuts, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern (opposite sides alternately) to the specification in your manual, usually between 80 and 120 foot-pounds.
Testing and what to watch for after replacement
Before driving, turn the steering wheel fully left and right while the vehicle is stationary to check that the new joint moves freely without clicking or binding. Then take a short test drive at low speed in a parking lot or quiet street. Listen for clicking sounds when turning; a new joint should be silent. If you hear clicking, the joint may not be seated fully or the boot may be torn.
Check underneath the vehicle after the first 50 miles to make sure no bolts have loosened and no grease is leaking from the new joint. If everything looks dry and tight, the replacement is complete. The new joint should last 80,000 to 100,000 miles if the boot stays intact.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace just the CV joint, or do I have to replace the whole axle?
You can replace just the joint if it is bolted on or if you have access to a press. Many shops replace the entire axle assembly because it is faster and comes with a warranty. Check your vehicle's design and your comfort level with pressing before deciding.
What does a clicking noise mean when I turn?
Clicking when turning is the classic sign of a worn CV joint. It happens because the joint has play in it and the balls inside rattle as you steer. A new joint should eliminate the noise when ready. If clicking returns after replacement, the new joint may be defective or not fully seated.
Do I need a press to do this job at home?
If your joint is bolted on, no. If it is pressed on, a press makes the job much easier and safer. You can rent a hydraulic press from a tool rental shop for $30 to $50 per day, or use a hammer and block method if you are patient and careful.
How do I know which CV joint is bad?
Turn the steering wheel fully to one side and accelerate gently. If you hear a clicking or popping sound, the outer joint on that side is worn. If clicking happens on both sides or in a straight line, the inner joint is likely the problem. Have a mechanic inspect it if you are unsure.
What happens if I drive on a bad CV joint?
The joint will continue to wear, the clicking will get louder, and eventually the axle can separate or lock up, causing loss of power to that wheel. This is dangerous at highway speeds. Replace it as soon as you notice symptoms.