A double bit axe handle replacement takes two to three hours and costs $15 to $40 for the handle alone

You can replace a double bit axe handle yourself with basic tools—a hammer, a drift punch or nail, a handsaw, and sandpaper. The job involves driving out the old wedges that hold the head to the handle, removing the head, fitting a new handle, and driving in new wedges to lock it tight. The hardest part is usually getting the old wedges out without damaging the head; the rest is straightforward work that does not require special skills.

A new double bit handle costs between $15 and $40 depending on the wood type and length. Hickory is the standard—it is strong, absorbs shock, and lasts longer than softer woods. Some handles come pre-shaped and ready to fit; others need light sanding to match your axe head's eye (the hole where the handle goes). If you are uncomfortable with the wedging step or your axe head is cracked or loose in ways that suggest deeper damage, a professional tool repair shop can do the work for $30 to $60.

Key Takeaways

  • The old handle is held in place by two or three wooden or metal wedges driven into slots at the top of the handle; you must remove these wedges before the head will come free.
  • New hickory handles are sold pre-shaped for standard axe head sizes, but you may need to sand the top slightly so it fits snugly into your axe head's eye.
  • The new wedges must be driven in firmly and flush with the top of the handle to lock the head securely and prevent it from loosening during use.
  • If the old wedges are stuck or the axe head is damaged, a tool repair shop can complete the job faster and with less risk of breaking the head.

What you need before you start

Gather a hammer (a 2 to 3 pound ball-peen or claw hammer works well), a drift punch or a large nail that fits into the wedge slots, a handsaw or hacksaw, medium-grit sandpaper (80 to 120 grit), and a new double bit handle. Measure your old handle from the bottom of the head to the end, or bring the axe head to a tool supplier and let them match it—handles come in standard lengths like 28, 32, and 36 inches, and the right length depends on your axe's weight and your own height and reach.

Work on a sturdy bench or table with the axe head held firmly in a vise or clamped between blocks of wood. Do not hold the head in your hand while driving wedges—a missed hammer blow can break your fingers. Wear safety glasses because metal or wood fragments can fly when you are driving out old wedges.

How to remove the old handle and wedges

Look at the top of the handle where it enters the axe head. You will see one or two slots cut across the top, and in those slots are wedges—usually wooden, sometimes metal. These wedges are what hold the handle in place. Using your drift punch or nail, position it against the top of the first wedge and strike it with the hammer, driving the wedge upward and out of the slot. Work from both sides if there are two wedges, striking each one a few times to loosen it gradually rather than hammering one side hard.

If a wedge is stuck, tap it gently from different angles to break the grip. Do not strike the axe head itself—only the wedges. Once the wedges are out, the handle should slide free from the head. If it does not, the handle may be swollen from moisture; wrap a cloth around the handle near the head and tap it gently with the hammer to loosen it, then twist and pull.

Fitting the new handle to the axe head

Slide the new handle into the axe head's eye. It should fit snugly but not so tight that you have to force it. If it is too loose, the head will rattle and eventually fall off. If it is too tight, you risk splitting the handle or the head when you drive in the wedges. Sand the top of the handle lightly with medium-grit sandpaper until it slides in smoothly and sits flush with the top of the head—the handle should not protrude above the head, and the head should not sit lower than the top of the handle.

Once the fit is right, mark where the wedge slots are on the new handle by looking through them from above, or by rubbing chalk on the inside edges of the slots and sliding the handle in and out to leave marks. You will cut slots in the new handle to match these marks.

Cutting wedge slots and preparing new wedges

Using a handsaw or hacksaw, cut slots into the top of the new handle where the old wedges sat. The slots should be about 1/8 inch wide and run from the top of the handle down about 1 to 1.5 inches. Make the cuts straight and parallel to each other. If your old wedges are still usable (not cracked or bent), you can reuse them; if not, you can buy new wooden or metal wedges from a tool supplier, or cut your own from hardwood like oak or hickory.

If you are cutting your own wedges, make them slightly thicker at the top than at the bottom so they drive in and lock tight. A typical wedge is about 1/8 inch thick at the top, tapers to a point, and is about 2 inches long. Sand the wedges smooth so they drive in cleanly without splintering.

Driving in the new wedges and finishing

Position the first wedge in its slot with the thick end up. Strike it firmly with the hammer, driving it down into the slot. The wedge should go in with solid, even blows—if it suddenly becomes very hard to drive, stop and check that it is going straight and not binding on the sides of the slot. Once the first wedge is seated, drive in the second wedge the same way. Both wedges should be driven until they are flush with the top of the handle or just slightly below it.

If a wedge protrudes above the handle, use the handsaw to trim it flush, then sand the top smooth. The head should now be locked firmly to the handle with no movement or rattle. Test it by holding the handle and gently trying to twist the head—it should not move. If it does, the wedges may not be driven in far enough, or the handle may be too loose in the eye. Drive the wedges in further, or remove the handle and sand it slightly more to tighten the fit.

When to stop and call a professional

If the old wedges will not come out after gentle tapping from multiple angles, or if you see cracks in the axe head while removing the old handle, stop. Forcing a stuck wedge can break the head, and a cracked head is unsafe to use and may not be worth repairing. A tool repair shop has specialized tools and experience to remove stubborn wedges without damage and can assess whether the head is safe to use.

If the new handle does not fit into the eye smoothly after light sanding, or if the head rocks or spins on the handle even after the wedges are driven in tight, the handle or head may be warped or the eye may be damaged. Again, a professional can determine whether the problem is fixable or whether a new head is needed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a handle made from wood other than hickory?

Hickory is the standard because it is strong and absorbs shock without splitting. Ash and oak work but are less ideal—ash is lighter and can wear faster, and oak is harder and more brittle. For a double bit axe that you use regularly, hickory is worth the small extra cost.

What if the axe head is loose even after I drive the wedges in tight?

The handle is probably too thin for the eye. Remove the handle and sand the top and sides slightly more, then try again. If it is still loose after a second fitting, the eye may be worn or damaged and the head may need professional repair or replacement.

Do I need to soak the new handle in oil or finish it?

No, but you can. A light coat of linseed oil or axe handle oil protects the wood from moisture and can extend the handle's life. explore it after the wedges are in place, and let it dry before using the axe. This is optional but recommended if you want the handle to last as long as possible.

How tight should the wedges be driven?

Drive them until they are flush with the top of the handle or just slightly recessed. You should not be able to move them by hand, and the head should not rattle or twist on the handle. If you hit the wedge and it suddenly becomes very hard to drive, you have probably gone far enough—do not keep hammering or you risk splitting the handle.

Can I replace just one wedge if only one is loose?

Yes. Remove the loose wedge, clean out the slot, and drive in a new wedge of the same size and shape. If the other wedge is still tight and the head is find, you do not need to replace it.