A dryer heating element burns out and stops heating — here's how to swap it

A heating element is a coiled wire inside your dryer that gets hot when electricity runs through it. When it fails, your dryer tumbles but clothes come out damp and cold. Replacing it yourself takes about an hour, costs $25 to $75 for the part, and requires only a screwdriver and a multimeter to test whether the element is actually dead.

The job is the same whether you own an electric dryer or a gas dryer — the heating element works the same way in both. The main difference is that gas dryers have a heating element that looks like a metal tube, while electric dryers have a coiled wire. Both sit in the same spot: inside a metal housing at the bottom or back of the drum.

Key Takeaways

  • A failed heating element is the most common reason a dryer stops producing heat, and you can test it with a multimeter before you buy a replacement.
  • You must unplug the dryer from the wall outlet before you open it, because the element holds an electrical charge even when the dryer is off.
  • The element sits in a metal housing that you access by removing the front or rear panel — which one depends on your dryer model.
  • Once you locate the housing, you unscrew the old element, disconnect the wire terminals, and install the new one in reverse order.
  • The whole job takes about an hour and costs far less than a service call, but if you are uncomfortable working inside an appliance, a technician can do it for $150 to $300.

Test the heating element before you buy a replacement

A multimeter tells you whether the element is actually broken or whether the problem is something else — a blown thermal fuse, a bad thermostat, or a wiring issue. A multimeter costs $10 to $20 at any hardware store and is worth owning if you plan to fix appliances more than once.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting (the symbol that looks like an omega: Ω). Unplug the dryer. Locate the heating element — you may need to remove the front or rear panel to see it. Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two metal terminals on the element. A working element reads between 10 and 25 ohms. A reading of zero or infinity means the element is dead and needs replacement. If the reading is normal but the dryer still does not heat, the problem is elsewhere and you should call a technician.

Unplug the dryer and locate the heating element housing

Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet. Do not skip this step — the heating element holds a charge and can shock you even when the dryer is off. Wait five minutes before you open the cabinet.

Most electric dryers have the heating element at the bottom rear, inside a metal box called the heater housing. To reach it, you remove either the front panel or the rear panel. Check your dryer's manual or look at the screw locations: if screws run along the bottom front edge, remove the front panel. If they run along the bottom rear edge, remove the rear panel. Some models have screws on both sides — in that case, either panel works, but the front is usually easier.

Remove the screws holding the panel in place. You may need to remove a lint trap or duct first. Slide the panel out gently — it may be held by clips at the top as well as screws at the bottom. Once the panel is off, you will see the heater housing, a metal box with two or three wire terminals sticking out of it.

Remove the old heating element

The heating element is bolted to the heater housing with two or three bolts, usually 1/4-inch. Use a socket wrench or adjustable wrench to remove them. Keep the bolts in a small container so you do not lose them — you will use the same bolts for the new element.

Once the bolts are out, the element will slide out of the housing. Before you pull it all the way out, look at how the wire terminals connect. Most elements have two terminals that push onto metal posts, like a battery terminal. Take a photo with your phone so you remember which wire goes where. Gently pull the terminals off the posts.

If the terminals are soldered or crimped on, you will need to cut them off with wire cutters and strip about 1/4 inch of insulation from each wire. This is rare on modern dryers, but it happens on older models.

Install the new heating element

Slide the new element into the heater housing, lining up the bolt holes. If the new element came with new terminals already attached, push them onto the metal posts in the same order as the old ones. If you had to cut off the old terminals, crimp or solder new terminals onto the wires before you install the element — do not try to do this after the element is in the housing.

Insert the bolts through the element and into the housing. Tighten them by hand first, then use a wrench to snug them down. Do not over-tighten — you only need them tight enough that the element does not move. Over-tightening can crack the ceramic insulator inside the housing.

Double-check that both wire terminals are seated firmly on their posts. Wiggle each one gently — it should not move. If a terminal is loose, the element will not heat and you will have to open the dryer again.

Reassemble the dryer and test it

Slide the front or rear panel back into place. Line up the clips at the top first, then push the bottom edge in until the screw holes line up. Screw the panel back on, starting with the bottom screws and working up. Reinstall the lint trap or duct if you removed it.

Plug the dryer back into the wall outlet. Run a test cycle with a damp towel inside. The dryer should heat up within two minutes — you should feel warm air coming out of the vent. If it does not heat, unplug it and check that both wire terminals are still seated on their posts. If they are, the problem is not the element and you should call a technician.

If the dryer heats normally, the job is done. The new element should last five to ten years under normal use.

When to call a technician instead

If you are not comfortable working inside an appliance, or if you do not have a multimeter and do not want to buy one, a service technician can replace the element for $150 to $300 including the part and labor. This is still less than the cost of a new dryer, which runs $400 to $1,200 for a basic model.

You should also call a technician if the dryer has other problems — if it is making noise, if the drum does not turn, or if it trips the circuit breaker. A failed heating element is usually the only problem, but not always. A technician can diagnose the whole machine in one visit.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace the heating element without removing the entire panel?

No. The heating element sits inside a metal housing that is only accessible once you remove the front or rear panel. Some dryers have a small access door, but most do not. Removing the panel takes about ten minutes and is the only way to reach the element.

What if the new element does not heat even after I install it?

Check that both wire terminals are pushed firmly onto their metal posts. If they are loose, the element will not work. If they are tight and the dryer still does not heat, the problem may be a blown thermal fuse or a bad thermostat. A multimeter can help you test these parts, or you can call a technician.

Do I need to replace the thermal fuse at the same time?

No, not unless it is blown. A thermal fuse blows only if the dryer overheats, which usually means the vent is clogged. If the fuse is blown, clean the vent duct thoroughly before you run the dryer again, or the new fuse will blow too. You can test the fuse with a multimeter the same way you test the heating element.

How do I know which heating element to buy?

Look up your dryer's model number — it is usually on a sticker inside the door frame or on the back of the machine. Search for "[your model number] heating element" on the manufacturer's website or on a parts retailer like Appliance Parts Pros or PartSelect. Make sure you buy the element for your exact model, because different models use different elements.

Is it safe to use the dryer right after I replace the element?

Yes, as long as you have plugged it back in and run a test cycle first. The new element is safe to use when ready. There is no break-in period or warm-up time needed.