What You Need to Know Before Starting

Replacing a front wheel hub means removing the wheel, taking off the brake components, and unbolting the hub assembly from the steering knuckle. The job takes two to four hours depending on your vehicle and whether the hub is pressed on or bolted on. You will need a jack, jack stands, a socket set, a breaker bar, and possibly a hub puller tool if the hub is pressed rather than bolted.

The front hub carries the wheel bearing and bolts to the steering knuckle — the part that holds your brake rotor and connects to the suspension. When a hub fails, you usually hear a grinding or humming noise that gets louder when you turn. If you have basic mechanical skill and the right tools, you can do this job yourself. If the hub is pressed on and you do not have a press or puller, a shop will charge you $200 to $600 for labor alone.

Key Takeaways

  • You must support the vehicle on jack stands before removing the wheel — never work under a car held only by a jack.
  • The hub bolts to the steering knuckle with four to six bolts that often seize; soak them with penetrating oil the night before if possible.
  • If the hub is pressed on rather than bolted, you need a hub puller or access to a press — attempting to hammer it off will damage the steering knuckle.
  • The new hub usually comes with a new wheel bearing already installed, so you do not need to pack or adjust the bearing yourself.
  • Torque the hub bolts to the manufacturer's specification — typically 70 to 150 foot-pounds depending on the vehicle — using a torque wrench.

Gather Your Tools and Parts

Before you start, collect a socket set that fits your vehicle (usually metric), a breaker bar, a torque wrench, a jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks. You will also need a lug wrench, a hammer, penetrating oil, and possibly a hub puller if your hub is pressed on. A hub puller looks like a three-legged claw and bolts to the hub to pull it straight off the knuckle without damage.

Buy the replacement hub assembly before you begin. Most front hubs come as a complete unit with the bearing already installed and sealed. Write down your vehicle's year, make, model, and engine size so you order the correct part. Check whether your vehicle has ABS — if it does, the hub may have a sensor ring or connector that you will need to transfer to the new hub or that comes pre-installed.

Remove the Wheel and Brake Components

Park on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you are working on while the vehicle is still on the ground — do not remove them yet. Raise the vehicle with a jack under the frame, then lower it onto jack stands placed under the frame rails on both sides. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

Next, remove the brake caliper by unbolting the two bolts that hold it to the steering knuckle. Hang the caliper from the suspension with a wire or bungee cord so it does not dangle from the brake line. Remove the brake rotor by unbolting it from the hub (usually two bolts) or by tapping it gently with a hammer if it is stuck. Set the rotor aside.

Unbolt the Hub from the Steering Knuckle

The hub bolts to the steering knuckle with four to six bolts arranged in a circle. These bolts often seize from rust and corrosion. If you did not soak them the night before, spray them now with penetrating oil and wait 15 to 30 minutes. Use a breaker bar — a longer lever than a regular socket wrench — to break the bolts loose. Once loose, remove them by hand or with a socket wrench.

If a bolt will not budge even with a breaker bar and penetrating oil, explore more oil and wait another 30 minutes. Tapping the bolt gently with a hammer can help break corrosion. As a last resort, you can drill out a seized bolt, but this risks damaging the steering knuckle. Once all bolts are out, the hub should slide off the steering knuckle. If it does not, the hub may be pressed on — see the next section.

Remove a Pressed Hub with a Puller

If your hub does not slide off after the bolts are removed, it is pressed onto the steering knuckle shaft. Attempting to hammer it off will crack the knuckle. Instead, use a hub puller: bolt the three-legged tool to the hub using the same bolt holes that held the brake rotor, then tighten the center screw to pull the hub straight off.

Rent a hub puller from an auto parts store for $20 to $40 per day if you do not own one. Position the puller so the legs grip the hub evenly and the center screw presses against the knuckle shaft. Tighten the screw slowly — do not jerk it. The hub should slide off gradually. If you do not have access to a puller or a press, this is the point to stop and take the vehicle to a shop.

Install the New Hub and Reassemble

Clean the steering knuckle shaft and the bore of the new hub with a wire brush to remove rust and debris. Slide the new hub onto the shaft. If the hub is pressed on, you will need a press to seat it fully — most shops will do this for $50 to $100. If the hub bolts on, insert the bolts by hand first, then tighten them in a star pattern (alternating opposite sides) to may support even seating.

Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's specification, which you can find in your vehicle's service manual or online. Typical torque values range from 70 to 150 foot-pounds. Reinstall the brake rotor and bolt it to the hub. Reinstall the brake caliper and tighten its bolts. Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts, then lower the vehicle onto the ground and torque the lug nuts to specification — usually 80 to 120 foot-pounds.

Test and Verify Your Work

Before driving, pump the brake pedal several times to restore brake pressure, then test the brakes in a parking lot at low speed. Listen for any grinding, humming, or clicking noises from the wheel you replaced. The wheel should spin freely without noise or vibration. If you hear grinding or the wheel feels rough, the hub may not be seated correctly or the bearing may be damaged.

Drive the vehicle on a quiet road for a few miles and listen again. A properly installed hub should be silent. If you hear noise, stop and check that all bolts are tight and torqued correctly. If the noise persists, the hub may be defective or installed incorrectly — remove it and inspect the steering knuckle for damage or the hub for a manufacturing defect.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace just the bearing instead of the whole hub?

Most modern vehicles use sealed hub assemblies where the bearing cannot be serviced separately. You must replace the entire hub. Older vehicles sometimes had removable bearings, but even then, removing and repacking a bearing is more labor-intensive than installing a new sealed hub.

What if the hub bolts are stripped and will not tighten?

If the bolt holes in the steering knuckle are stripped, you can drill them out to the next larger size and use larger bolts, or you can have the knuckle re-threaded by a machine shop. If only one or two bolts are stripped, you may be able to use a slightly larger bolt in those holes while keeping the others standard size.

Do I need to replace the brake rotor when I replace the hub?

Not necessarily. If the rotor is not warped, cracked, or worn below the minimum thickness (usually stamped on the rotor), you can reuse it. However, if the rotor is old or shows signs of wear, replacing it at the same time prevents future brake problems and is more cost-effective than a second job later.

How long does a new hub last?

A properly installed hub bearing should last 100,000 to 150,000 miles under normal driving. Premature failure can result from driving through deep water, hitting a pothole hard, or a collision that damages the steering knuckle. If a hub fails again within a few years, the steering knuckle may be bent and need replacement.

What if my vehicle has ABS and the hub has a sensor?

Some ABS systems have a sensor ring or connector on the hub. Check whether the new hub comes with the sensor pre-installed. If not, carefully transfer the sensor from the old hub to the new one, or order a hub that includes it. A disconnected ABS sensor will trigger a warning light but will not prevent the vehicle from stopping.