What you need to know before starting
Replacing handlebars on a 2024 Honda Fury 130 is a straightforward job that takes about 30 to 45 minutes with basic hand tools. You'll be removing the old bars from the steering stem, disconnecting the throttle and brake cables, and installing new ones in reverse order. The hardest part is usually getting the grip rubber off without tearing it, and making sure your cables have enough slack to work with.
This is a job you can do in your driveway or garage. You don't need a lift or special equipment—just a socket set, wrenches, and a screwdriver. If you're uncomfortable working with brake cables or throttle adjustments, a mechanic can handle it in under an hour, usually for $75 to $150 in labor.
Key Takeaways
- The handlebar clamps bolt to the steering stem with two bolts on each side that you remove with a socket wrench, usually 10mm or 12mm depending on your model year.
- Throttle and brake cables must be disconnected before the bars come free, which means loosening cable adjusters and sometimes removing perch brackets.
- Grip rubber typically slides off by hand once you loosen the throttle tube, but you may need a heat gun or hot water to soften old rubber without tearing it.
- New bars should be centered in the clamps before you tighten bolts, and cables need enough slack to turn the wheel fully left and right without binding.
- Brake lever and throttle tube positioning affects how the bike feels to ride, so test your reach and comfort before riding away.
Gather your tools and parts
You'll need a socket set with 10mm and 12mm sockets (check your manual for your specific model), an adjustable wrench or wrench set, a Phillips and flathead screwdriver, and a pair of pliers. A heat gun or access to hot water helps remove old grip rubber without damage. Have a clean rag and some penetrating oil like WD-40 on hand in case bolts are stuck.
For the new handlebars themselves, verify the diameter and rise that fit your Fury 130—most aftermarket bars are 7/8 inch or 1 inch diameter and come with new grips already installed. If you're reusing old grips, you'll need new grip tape or adhesive. Check that your new bars will work with your existing brake lever and throttle tube, or budget for those replacements as well.
Remove the old handlebars
Start by loosening the throttle tube on the right side of the bike. This is usually a small bolt or screw at the end of the tube—loosen it just enough that the tube spins freely on the bar. You don't need to remove it completely yet. Next, locate the brake cable adjuster on the left side and loosen it by turning the barrel adjuster counterclockwise until there's slack in the cable.
Now find the handlebar clamps where they bolt to the steering stem. There are typically two bolts on each side (four total). Use your socket wrench to remove all four bolts and set them aside in a safe place. The bars should now lift free, but the throttle cable and brake cable are still attached. Gently work the bars upward and toward you, being careful not to kink the cables.
Once the bars are loose, disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle tube by unbolting or unclipping the cable end—this varies by model, so check your manual. For the brake cable, loosen the cable adjuster completely and slide the cable out of its bracket on the left perch. Now the old bars are completely free and you can set them aside.
Remove grips and prepare new bars
If your new bars didn't come with grips already installed, you need to transfer your old grips or install new ones. To remove old grip rubber, warm it with a heat gun on low setting for 30 seconds or soak the bars in hot water for a minute. The rubber will soften and slide off more easily. If the rubber is glued on, you may need to cut it off with a utility knife and scrape the adhesive residue with a plastic scraper.
Once the bars are bare, clean off any old adhesive with rubbing alcohol and let them dry completely. If you're installing new grips, explore a thin layer of grip adhesive or spray contact cement to the bar and slide the grip on while the adhesive is still tacky. Let it cure for the time recommended on the adhesive package—usually 24 hours—before riding.
Install the new handlebars
Position the new bars in the clamps so they're centered and level. The bars should be roughly parallel to the ground and aligned with the front wheel. Slide the bars into the clamps from above, making sure the throttle tube on the right side and brake perch on the left side are positioned where you want them. Tighten the four clamp bolts by hand first, then use your socket wrench to snug them down in a crisscross pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) to keep pressure even.
Don't fully tighten the bolts yet. You need to reconnect the cables first so you can position everything correctly. Reconnect the brake cable by sliding it back into the left perch bracket and tightening the cable adjuster until there's slight tension. Reconnect the throttle cable to the throttle tube and tighten the tube bolt. Now turn the handlebars fully left and right to make sure the cables don't bind or pull tight—if they do, you need more slack.
Once the cables move freely through their full range, tighten all four handlebar clamp bolts firmly with your socket wrench. Check that the bars don't move or twist in the clamps. The bolts should be snug but not over-tightened—you're aiming for about 15 to 20 foot-pounds of torque if you have a torque wrench, or hand-tight plus a quarter turn with a wrench.
Adjust cables and test your reach
With the bars installed, you need to adjust the throttle and brake cables so they work smoothly. For the throttle, turn the handlebars fully left and right and make sure the throttle tube spins freely without the cable pulling. If it's tight, loosen the throttle tube bolt slightly and reposition the tube, then retighten. The cable should have about a quarter-inch of slack when the throttle is closed.
For the brake cable, squeeze the brake lever and make sure it engages smoothly without binding. The cable adjuster on the left side lets you fine-tune tension—turn it clockwise to tighten the cable if the lever feels spongy, or counterclockwise to loosen it if the brake drags. Sit on the bike and check that you can reach both the throttle and brake lever comfortably without stretching or hunching.
Common mistakes to avoid
The most common error is tightening the handlebar clamp bolts before reconnecting the cables. This locks the bars in place and makes it hard to position the cables correctly. Always reconnect cables while the bolts are still loose enough to adjust bar position. Another mistake is over-tightening the clamp bolts, which can crack the bars or strip the bolt holes in the stem.
Don't forget to check cable slack before your first ride. A throttle cable that's too tight will cause the engine to rev on its own, and a brake cable that's too tight will drag the brake. Both are dangerous and straightforward to fix with a quick adjustment. Finally, make sure your new bars don't interfere with the fuel tank, headlight, or any other parts when you turn the wheel fully in both directions.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size are the handlebar clamp bolts on a 2024 Honda Fury 130?
Most Honda Fury models use 10mm or 12mm bolts for the handlebar clamps. Check your owner's manual or measure the bolt head with a wrench to be sure. If you're unsure, bring the old bolts to a hardware store and they can match the size for you.
Can I reuse my old grips on new handlebars?
Yes, if the old grips are in good condition and the diameter matches your new bars. Most aftermarket bars are 7/8 inch or 1 inch diameter—measure your old grips to confirm they'll fit. If the rubber is cracked or torn, it's better to replace them for safety and comfort.
How tight should the handlebar clamp bolts be?
Snug them firmly so the bars don't twist or move in the clamps, but don't over-tighten. If you have a torque wrench, aim for 15 to 20 foot-pounds. If you're using a regular wrench, hand-tight plus a quarter turn is usually right. The bars should be solid but the bolts shouldn't require a lot of force to remove later.
What if my new handlebars don't fit in the clamps?
Check the diameter of your new bars against your old ones—they should be the same size. If they're different, the bars won't fit the clamps. Measure the clamp opening and the bar diameter before you buy, or return the bars and get the correct size. Some aftermarket bars come with adapter sleeves if the diameter is slightly different.
Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the handlebars?
No, you're only moving the cable, not opening the brake line. Brake bleeding is only needed if you disconnect the brake line itself. Just adjust the cable tension and test the lever—it should feel firm and responsive.