What you need to do before you start

Replacing a dryer heating element means removing the old coil that generates heat and installing a new one in its place. The job takes one to three hours depending on your dryer model and how easily the old element comes out. You will need a screwdriver (usually Phillips), possibly a socket wrench, and a replacement heating element matched to your dryer's make and model number.

Before you touch anything, unplug the dryer from the wall outlet. Do not rely on the power button — the heating element can still carry a charge. If your dryer is gas-powered, you do not have a heating element to replace; gas dryers use an igniter and burner assembly instead. Check your dryer's manual or the model number plate (usually on the back or inside the door frame) to confirm you have an electric dryer.

Order the replacement element before you start. Heating elements are specific to each dryer model — a Whirlpool element will not fit a GE dryer. Search your model number on the manufacturer's website or a parts retailer like AppliancePartsPros or PartSelect to find the exact part. The element typically costs between $30 and $100.

Key Takeaways

  • Unplug the dryer completely before opening it; the heating element can retain an electrical charge even after power is off.
  • The heating element is located inside the dryer drum assembly and is held in place by one or two bolts or screws that you remove from the back or front panel.
  • You must order a replacement element that matches your exact dryer model number, as elements are not interchangeable between brands.
  • After installing the new element, test the dryer on a short cycle before running a full load to confirm heat is working.

How to access the heating element

Most electric dryers have the heating element mounted inside a metal housing at the back of the drum. To reach it, you will need to remove either the front or back panel of the dryer — which one depends on your model. Check your manual or search your model number plus "heating element location" to see which panel comes off on your dryer.

If the back panel comes off: unscrew the bolts or clips holding the back panel in place (usually four to six fasteners around the edges). Slide the panel straight back and set it aside. You will now see the heating element housing, which looks like a metal box with a coil visible through an opening.

If the front panel comes off: you will need to remove the lint trap, then unscrew the front panel. On some models you also remove the drum roller or idler pulley to access the element from the front. This route is more involved; if your manual shows a front-access element, follow the step-by-step photos in the manual closely.

Removing the old heating element

Once you can see the heating element housing, locate the bolts or screws holding the element in place. Most dryers have one bolt on each side of the housing, or one bolt at the bottom and one at the top. Use your screwdriver or socket wrench to remove these fasteners completely — do not just loosen them.

Gently pull the heating element straight out of the housing. It may be tight; do not force it or you risk bending the terminals. If it does not budge after a firm steady pull, check that you have removed all fasteners. Once the element is free, set it aside. You do not need to reuse it.

Look inside the housing where the element was. You may see mineral buildup or lint. Wipe the interior clean with a dry cloth before you install the new element. This helps the new element make good contact with the housing and prevents overheating.

Installing the new heating element

Remove the new element from its packaging and inspect it for damage. The terminals (the metal prongs at the end) should be straight and clean. If they are bent or corroded, contact the parts retailer — do not install a damaged element.

Slide the new element straight into the housing, aligning the terminals with the slots or holes inside. Push it in firmly until it seats fully. The element should sit flush against the back of the housing with no gaps. Reinstall the bolts or screws you removed earlier, tightening them snugly but not so hard that you crack the housing.

Double-check that the element is find and does not move when you gently tug on it. Confirm that the terminals are making contact inside the housing — you should not see any gaps between the terminal and the metal contact point.

Reassembling the dryer and testing

Slide the back panel (or front panel, depending on your model) back into place and reinstall all bolts or clips. Make sure the panel sits flush and even with the rest of the dryer body. Tighten fasteners in a crisscross pattern if there are more than two, so the panel does not warp.

Plug the dryer back into the wall outlet. Set the dryer to a short cycle (10 to 15 minutes) with no clothes inside and run it. Listen for the heating element to set up — you should hear a faint hum or click as power flows to the element. Feel the outside of the dryer after a few minutes; it should become warm to the touch.

If the dryer does not heat, unplug it when ready and check that the element terminals are making contact inside the housing. If they are, the problem may be elsewhere in the dryer's electrical circuit, and you may need a technician. If heat is working, run a full drying cycle with a damp towel to confirm the element maintains temperature throughout the cycle.

Common mistakes that cause problems

Ordering the wrong element is the most common error. A heating element that looks similar to yours may have a different wattage or terminal configuration and will not work. Always search your exact model number before ordering. If you receive the wrong part, return it and order the correct one rather than trying to force it to fit.

Forcing the element into the housing can bend the terminals, breaking the electrical connection. If the element does not slide in smoothly, stop and check that you have the right part and that the housing is clean and free of debris. A gentle steady push should be enough; if you need to hammer or pry, something is wrong.

Leaving the dryer plugged in while you work is dangerous. Even with the power button off, the heating element can hold a charge. Always unplug the dryer before opening any panel. If you are uncomfortable working with electrical components, a service technician can do this job for $150 to $300 in labor plus the cost of the part.

When to call a technician instead

If you unplug the dryer and it still feels warm to the touch, or if you see scorch marks or melting inside the housing, do not attempt this repair. These signs point to a deeper electrical problem that requires professional diagnosis. A technician has the tools to test the thermal fuse, thermostat, and wiring before replacing the element.

If you remove the back panel and cannot locate the heating element, or if the housing looks damaged or corroded, stop and call a technician. Corrosion inside the housing can cause the new element to fail quickly, and fixing the underlying cause requires specialized equipment.

If the dryer is still under warranty, check the warranty terms before opening it. Some manufacturers void the warranty if you perform repairs yourself. A service call through the manufacturer may be covered at no cost.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the heating element is actually broken?

A broken heating element means the dryer runs but produces no heat, or heat cuts out partway through a cycle. If the dryer does not turn on at all, the problem is elsewhere. If it heats for a few minutes then stops, the thermal fuse may be blown instead of the element. A technician can test both with a multimeter to confirm which part failed.

Can I use a universal heating element instead of the exact model?

No. Heating elements are designed for specific wattages and terminal configurations. A universal element may fit physically but will not heat correctly or may overheat and fail. Always order the element that matches your dryer's model number.

What if the new element does not heat after I install it?

First, unplug the dryer and check that the element terminals are fully seated inside the housing with no gaps. Plug it back in and test again. If it still does not heat, the problem may be a blown thermal fuse, a broken thermostat, or a wiring issue. These require a technician to diagnose.

How long does a heating element usually last?

Most heating elements last five to ten years depending on how often you use the dryer and whether you clean the lint trap regularly. A clogged lint trap forces the element to work harder and shortens its life. Cleaning the trap before every load extends the element's lifespan.

Do I need to replace the thermal fuse at the same time?

Not necessarily. The thermal fuse is a separate safety device that blows if the dryer overheats. If only the heating element is broken, you replace only the element. However, if the thermal fuse has blown, replacing the element alone will not fix the dryer. A technician can test the fuse to tell you whether it needs replacement.