What You Need to Know Before You Start

The heating element in a Kenmore dryer is the coil that warms the air inside the drum. When it burns out, your dryer will run but produce no heat—clothes come out damp and cold. Replacing it yourself is possible if you are comfortable working with basic tools and electrical connections, but the element sits deep inside the dryer cabinet, so you will need to disassemble several panels to reach it.

The job takes two to four hours depending on your model and your familiarity with the work. You will need a screwdriver set, a multimeter to test the element, and possibly a socket wrench. Before you begin, unplug the dryer from the wall outlet—this is not optional. A heating element still holds an electrical charge even after the dryer is off, so you must also discharge the thermal fuse or capacitor before touching any wiring.

If you are not comfortable working inside an appliance, or if your dryer is still under warranty, call a service technician. A professional replacement typically costs $200 to $400 in labor and parts combined, but it comes with a warranty on the work.

Key Takeaways

  • The heating element is located behind the front or rear panel of your Kenmore dryer and requires full disassembly to access.
  • You must unplug the dryer and discharge the thermal fuse or capacitor before touching any internal parts, because they hold an electrical charge.
  • Test the element with a multimeter before ordering a replacement to confirm it is actually burned out, not a thermostat or thermal fuse problem.
  • Kenmore dryer models vary widely, so check your model number on the back of the unit and look up the specific disassembly steps for your machine.
  • If you are uncomfortable working with electrical components or your dryer is under warranty, a service call is safer and faster than a DIY replacement.

Locate Your Model Number and Find the Correct Heating Element

Kenmore dryers come in many configurations—electric and gas models have different heating systems, and the location of the heating element varies by year and model. The model number is printed on a sticker on the back of the dryer, usually near the bottom. Write it down or take a photo.

Search for your exact model number plus "heating element replacement" on the Kenmore website or on appliance parts retailers like AppliancePartsPros or PartSelect. These sites will show you the correct part number and often include a diagram showing where the element sits in your specific dryer. Order the element before you start disassembly—it typically costs $40 to $100 depending on the model.

Do not assume all Kenmore heating elements are the same. An element designed for one model may not fit another, and using the wrong part can damage the dryer or create a fire hazard. If you cannot find your model number or the part is unavailable, contact Kenmore customer service at 1-800-4-KENMORE (1-800-453-6673) and they can direct you to the right replacement.

Unplug the Dryer and Discharge the Electrical Charge

Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet. Do not rely on turning it off—you must physically disconnect the power cord. If the dryer is hardwired (no plug), turn off the circuit breaker that controls it and tape the breaker switch in the off position so no one turns it back on while you work.

Wait at least five minutes. Then locate the thermal fuse or capacitor inside the dryer cabinet—your model's manual or the parts diagram will show you where. Use an insulated screwdriver to touch both terminals of the capacitor or fuse simultaneously to discharge any remaining electrical charge. You will hear a small pop or see a spark; this is normal and means the charge is gone. If you do not see or hear anything, the component was already discharged.

This step is critical. A heating element can deliver a dangerous shock even after the dryer has been unplugged for hours. Do not skip it.

Remove the Front or Rear Panel to Access the Heating Element

Most Kenmore electric dryers have the heating element mounted in a housing behind the rear panel, though some models access it from the front. Check your model's manual or the parts diagram to see which applies to yours. The manual is often available as a PDF on the Kenmore website if you search your model number plus "manual".

If the element is behind the rear panel, remove the screws holding the rear panel to the cabinet and set the panel aside. If it is behind the front panel, you will need to remove the lint trap, then remove the screws or clips holding the front panel, and carefully pull it away from the dryer body. Take a photo of the wire connections before you disconnect anything—you will need to reconnect them the same way.

Once the panel is off, you will see the heating element housing. It is usually a metal box with two or three wire terminals on one end. The wires are held in place with push-on connectors or screw terminals. Before you disconnect anything, test the element with a multimeter to confirm it is actually burned out.

Test the Heating Element with a Multimeter

Set a multimeter to the ohms setting (the symbol that looks like an omega: Ω). Disconnect one wire from the heating element terminal. Touch one multimeter probe to each terminal on the element. A working element will show a reading between 10 and 20 ohms. If the reading is zero or infinity (the multimeter shows "OL" or does not move), the element is burned out and needs replacement.

If the element tests good, the problem is likely a thermostat, thermal fuse, or door switch, not the heating element itself. Reconnect the wire, reassemble the dryer, and call a technician—diagnosing those parts requires more specialized knowledge.

If the element is burned out, proceed to removal. Take another photo of the wire connections and their positions before you touch anything.

Remove the Old Element and Install the New One

Disconnect the wires from the old heating element. If they are push-on connectors, gently pull them straight off. If they are screw terminals, use a screwdriver to loosen the screw, slide the wire out, and set the screw aside in a small cup so you do not lose it.

Remove the screws or bolts holding the element housing to the dryer cabinet—usually two or three fasteners. Slide the old element housing out of the dryer. It may be tight; do not force it. If it does not budge, check that you have removed all fasteners.

Slide the new element housing into place and find it with the screws or bolts you removed. Reconnect the wires to the new element in the exact same positions as they were on the old one. Use your photos as a reference. If the wires are push-on connectors, push them firmly onto the terminals until they click. If they are screw terminals, insert the wire under the screw and tighten the screw firmly but not so hard that you strip it.

Reassemble the Dryer and Test It

Reinstall the rear or front panel by reversing the steps you used to remove it. Make sure all screws or clips are tight so the panel does not rattle or come loose during operation. Plug the dryer back into the wall outlet or turn the circuit breaker back on.

Run the dryer on a heat setting for 10 to 15 minutes with no clothes inside. You should feel warm air coming out of the vent. If the dryer still produces no heat, unplug it again and check that all wire connections are tight and fully seated. If heat is present, run a test load of damp towels to confirm the element is working properly.

If the dryer still does not heat after you have checked all connections, the problem may be a faulty thermostat or a bad connection elsewhere in the circuit. At that point, a service technician can diagnose the issue more efficiently than you can.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the heating element is actually broken?

A broken heating element will cause the dryer to run but produce no heat—clothes come out damp and cold. The drum will turn normally. Test the element with a multimeter set to ohms; a burned-out element will show zero or infinity resistance. If the element tests good but there is still no heat, the problem is likely a thermostat, thermal fuse, or door switch.

Can I replace the heating element on a gas Kenmore dryer?

No. Gas dryers do not have heating elements. They use a gas burner to heat the air. If a gas dryer is not heating, the problem is usually a faulty igniter, gas valve, or thermostat. Gas dryer repairs require a technician certified to work with gas appliances.

What if I cannot find the heating element in my dryer?

Check your model number and look up the manual or parts diagram specific to your machine. Kenmore dryers vary widely, and the element location differs by model year. If you still cannot locate it, contact Kenmore customer service or a local appliance repair shop—they can tell you exactly where to look.

Do I need to replace the thermal fuse at the same time?

Not necessarily. The thermal fuse protects the dryer from overheating and blows only if the dryer gets too hot. If the fuse is intact, you do not need to replace it. However, if the fuse has blown, replacing only the heating element will not fix the problem—you must also find out why the dryer overheated in the first place, usually a clogged vent or lint trap.

How long should a new heating element last?

A heating element typically lasts 5 to 10 years with normal use. It will burn out sooner if the dryer vent is clogged, because the dryer has to work harder to dry clothes. Keep the lint trap clean after every load and have the vent duct cleaned once a year to extend the element's life.