What You Need to Know Before Starting
Replacing the heating element in a Kenmore dryer is a job you can do yourself with basic tools and about an hour of time. The heating element is a coil of wire inside the dryer drum that generates the heat needed to dry clothes. When it burns out, your dryer will run but produce no heat—clothes come out damp or cold. You will need to unplug the dryer, remove the front or rear panel depending on your model, locate the heating element assembly, disconnect the old one, and install the new one.
The exact steps vary slightly between Kenmore models because some have the heating element accessible from the front and others from the back. Before you begin, find your dryer's model number (usually on a sticker inside the door frame or on the back) and confirm which access point applies to your machine. You can find this in the manual or by searching the model number on the Kenmore website.
Key Takeaways
- Always unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet before removing any panels or parts.
- The heating element assembly includes the element itself, a thermostat, and a thermal fuse—you may need to replace more than one part if others have failed.
- Most Kenmore dryers require you to remove either the front or rear panel to access the heating element, depending on the model year and design.
- A replacement heating element costs between $30 and $80, and the job takes about one hour once you have the right part and tools.
Gather Your Tools and the Right Replacement Part
You will need a Phillips screwdriver, a flathead screwdriver, a socket wrench set (usually 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch sockets), and needle-nose pliers. Have a small container nearby to hold screws as you remove them—dryer panels have many fasteners and it is straightforward to lose track. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges inside the dryer cabinet.
Order a replacement heating element assembly that matches your exact Kenmore model number. The part number will be different for front-load versus rear-load access models. When the part arrives, compare it visually to the old element before you start—they should look identical. If your dryer is more than five years old, consider ordering a thermal fuse and thermostat at the same time, since these parts often fail together with the heating element.
Unplug the Dryer and Remove the Access Panel
Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet. This is the most important safety step—never work on an electrical appliance while it is plugged in. If your dryer is hardwired (no plug), turn off the circuit breaker that controls it and tape the breaker switch in the off position so no one turns it back on while you work.
For front-access models, remove the lint trap and the front panel. The front panel is usually held by clips at the top and screws at the bottom corners. Gently pull the top of the panel toward you to release the clips, then remove the screws and lift the panel away. For rear-access models, pull the dryer away from the wall and remove the rear panel by unscrewing the fasteners around its perimeter. Take a photo of the inside before you disconnect anything—it helps you remember where wires go when you reassemble.
Locate and Disconnect the Old Heating Element
Once the panel is off, you will see the drum and the heating element assembly mounted below or behind it. The heating element looks like a metal box or tube with two wire terminals sticking out. Disconnect the two wires from the terminals by gently pulling them straight off—they should come free without tools. If they are stuck, use needle-nose pliers to wiggle them gently side to side while pulling.
Next, remove the mounting bolts or screws that hold the heating element assembly to the dryer frame. Most Kenmore models use two bolts on either side. Keep these fasteners in your container. Carefully slide the old element out of its housing and set it aside. Do not force it—if it seems stuck, check that you have removed all fasteners and disconnected all wires.
Install the New Heating Element Assembly
Slide the new heating element assembly into the same position where the old one sat. Make sure it is fully seated and aligned with the mounting holes. Insert the mounting bolts and tighten them firmly but do not overtighten—you want them snug enough that the element does not move, but over-tightening can crack the ceramic insulation inside the element.
Reconnect the two wire terminals to the new element. Push them straight onto the terminals until they click or seat fully. The wires should not come off if you tug gently on them. If your model has a thermal fuse or thermostat that you are also replacing, disconnect and install those parts now following the same method—disconnect the old wires, remove the mounting fasteners, install the new part, and reconnect the wires.
Reassemble the Dryer and Test
Slide the access panel back into place. For front-access models, align the top clips first, then insert and tighten the bottom screws. For rear-access models, align the panel and insert all fasteners, then tighten them in a crisscross pattern so the panel sits evenly. Do not overtighten the screws—they only need to be snug.
Plug the dryer back in or switch the circuit breaker back on. Run the dryer on a high-heat setting for 10 to 15 minutes with no clothes inside. You should feel warm air coming from the vent. If the dryer is still not producing heat, check that all wire connections are fully seated and that the thermal fuse has not blown. If the thermal fuse is the problem, you will need to replace it as well.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The most common mistake is not unplugging the dryer before starting work. Even though you are not working with live wires directly, an accidental short circuit can cause injury. Another frequent error is forcing the old element out or the new one in—if something does not slide smoothly, stop and check that all fasteners are removed and all wires are disconnected.
Do not mix up the wire terminals when reconnecting. The wires should go back on the same terminals they came from. If you are unsure, take a photo before disconnecting the old element, or mark the wires with tape. Finally, do not overtighten the mounting bolts—the heating element has a ceramic core that can crack under excessive pressure, and a cracked element will fail quickly.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the heating element is actually broken?
If the dryer runs but produces no heat, the element is likely the problem. You can also visually inspect it—if the coil is visibly cracked, blistered, or discolored, it has failed. A multimeter can test for continuity, but most home cooks do not have one. If you are unsure, replacing the element is usually the right move since it is the most common cause of no-heat dryer problems.
Can I replace just the heating element or do I need to replace the whole assembly?
Most Kenmore dryers sell the heating element as part of an assembly that includes the thermostat and thermal fuse. You can sometimes buy the element alone, but the assembly is usually only $10 to $20 more and saves you from having to take the dryer apart again if the thermostat fails next month.
What if the dryer still does not heat after I install the new element?
Check that both wire connections are fully seated and that you did not accidentally disconnect a third wire while working. If the connections are solid, the thermal fuse may have blown—this is a safety device that cuts power to the heating element if the dryer overheats. You will need to replace it as well. If both the element and fuse are new and the dryer still does not heat, the problem may be in the control board, which requires professional service.
Do I need any special tools to do this job?
No special tools are required. A Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, and socket wrench set are enough. A multimeter is helpful for testing but not necessary. Needle-nose pliers make disconnecting wires easier but you can do it with your fingers if the connections are not too tight.
How long does the new heating element last?
A properly installed heating element typically lasts 5 to 10 years depending on how often you use the dryer and whether you clean the lint trap regularly. A clogged lint trap forces the dryer to work harder and can shorten the element's life. Cleaning the lint trap after every load is the best way to extend the life of all dryer parts.