What You Need to Know Before You Start

Replacing a heating element in a Whirlpool dryer is a job you can do yourself if you are comfortable working with basic tools and electrical components. The element itself costs between $40 and $100 depending on your model, and the job takes two to four hours. You will need to unplug the dryer, remove the front or rear panel, disconnect the old element, and install the new one — no special skills required, but you do need to follow the steps in order and pay attention to how wires connect.

The heating element is a metal coil that gets hot when electricity passes through it. When your dryer stops heating but still tumbles, the element has usually burned out. Before you replace it, confirm that the thermal fuse has not blown — if it has, replacing only the element will not fix the problem, and you may blow the new fuse too. The thermal fuse is a safety device that cuts power if the dryer overheats; if it is open, something else is wrong with airflow or ventilation.

Key Takeaways

  • You will need your exact Whirlpool model number to order the correct heating element, which you can find on the data plate inside the door or on the back of the dryer.
  • Always unplug the dryer and wait at least 15 minutes before you touch any internal parts, because the heating element stays hot even after the dryer stops running.
  • Most Whirlpool dryers require you to remove either the front or rear panel; check your manual or the manufacturer's website to see which one applies to your model.
  • Take a photo of the wire connections before you disconnect them, so you know exactly where each wire goes when you install the new element.
  • If the thermal fuse is blown, replace it at the same time to avoid burning out the new heating element.

Find Your Model Number and Order the Right Part

The heating element part number is different for almost every Whirlpool dryer model, so ordering the wrong one will waste your money and time. Open the dryer door and look at the data plate — a small metal or plastic label usually on the left or right side of the opening. Write down the full model number, which starts with a letter and contains numbers and sometimes more letters.

Go to the Whirlpool website, search for your model number in the parts section, and look for "heating element" or "heat assembly" in the parts diagram. You can also call a Whirlpool parts distributor with your model number and they will tell you the exact part you need. Order from the manufacturer, a major appliance parts retailer like AppliancePartsPros or PartSelect, or Amazon. Expect to pay $40 to $100 for the element itself; shipping usually adds another $10 to $20.

Unplug the Dryer and Let It Cool

Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet. Do not skip this step — the heating element can cause a serious burn even after the dryer has been off for an hour. Wait at least 15 minutes before you open the dryer or touch any internal parts. If you have just run the dryer, wait longer; the element itself can stay hot for 30 minutes or more.

If your dryer is hardwired (connected directly to the wall with no plug), turn off the circuit breaker that controls it and leave it off while you work. Put a piece of tape over the breaker switch so no one turns it back on while you are working inside the dryer.

Remove the Front or Rear Panel

Check your Whirlpool manual or the manufacturer's website to see whether your model requires you to remove the front panel or the rear panel. Most electric dryers remove from the front, but some older models and gas dryers remove from the back. If you do not have the manual, search online for "Whirlpool [your model number] heating element replacement" and look for a YouTube video or a parts diagram that shows which panel comes off.

To remove the front panel, open the dryer door and look for screws along the top edge of the front panel, just below the door opening. Remove these screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Then look for screws along the bottom of the front panel and remove those too. Gently pull the front panel toward you — it may be held by clips as well as screws, so pull slowly and listen for cracking sounds. Once the panel is loose, set it aside on a clean surface where you will not trip over it.

To remove the rear panel, pull the dryer away from the wall and unplug it if you have not already. Look for screws around the edges of the rear panel and remove them with a Phillips screwdriver. Lift or slide the panel off and set it aside.

Locate the Heating Element and Take a Photo of the Wires

Once the panel is off, you will see the heating element mounted on the back wall of the dryer drum. It looks like a metal coil or a flat rectangular box with two or three wires connected to it. Before you touch anything, take a clear photo of how the wires connect to the element. This photo is your safety net — if you forget which wire goes where, you can look at the photo instead of guessing.

The heating element usually has two or three terminals where wires attach. Write down or photograph which wire color connects to which terminal. Most Whirlpool dryers use a black wire, a white wire, and sometimes a ground wire (usually green or bare copper). If you are not sure which wire is which, do not disconnect anything yet — look up a video for your exact model number first.

Disconnect the Old Element and Install the New One

Using a screwdriver or a socket wrench (depending on your model), remove the bolts or screws that hold the heating element in place. There are usually two or three bolts on the mounting bracket. Once the bolts are loose, gently pull the element toward you to expose the wire terminals on the back.

Disconnect each wire from the old element by loosening the terminal screws with a screwdriver and sliding the wire connector off. If the connectors are crimped on (permanently attached), you may need to cut them off with wire cutters and strip about half an inch of insulation from each wire so you can attach new connectors. Keep the old connectors or buy new ones that match the size of the terminals on your new element.

Slide the new heating element into place and line up the mounting holes. Insert the bolts and tighten them firmly but not so tight that you crack the element. Then connect each wire to the correct terminal on the new element, using your photo as a guide. Tighten each terminal screw until the wire is snug and does not move when you tug on it.

Reassemble the Dryer and Test It

Slide or push the front or rear panel back into place and reinstall all the screws you removed. Make sure the panel sits flush against the dryer body with no gaps. If the panel does not fit smoothly, you may have missed a screw hole or a clip — stop and check before you force it.

Plug the dryer back in (or turn the circuit breaker back on if it is hardwired). Close the dryer door, set it to a high heat cycle, and run it for 10 minutes. You should feel warm air coming out of the vent. If the dryer does not heat up, unplug it when ready and check that all your wire connections are tight and in the right place. If the dryer heats up normally, you are done.

What to Do If the Thermal Fuse Is Blown

If you have already replaced the heating element and the dryer still does not heat, the thermal fuse may have blown. The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that opens if the dryer gets too hot; once it opens, it cannot be reset and must be replaced. It usually sits near the heating element or on the blower housing, and it looks like a small cylinder with two wire terminals.

If the thermal fuse is blown, replace it at the same time you replace the heating element. A blown fuse usually means the dryer vent is clogged, the blower wheel is blocked, or the airflow sensor is stuck. After you install the new fuse, clean the vent ductwork from the back of the dryer to the outside wall, and make sure the vent flap on the outside of your house opens freely. If you do not fix the airflow problem, the new fuse will blow again within a few months.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the heating element is actually broken?

If the dryer tumbles but does not heat, the element is usually the problem. You can also open the dryer and look at the element — if it is visibly cracked, blistered, or has a hole in it, it is definitely broken. If the element looks fine but the dryer still does not heat, check the thermal fuse and the high-limit thermostat before you buy a new element.

Can I use a heating element from a different brand of dryer?

No. Heating elements are model-specific and the terminals, voltage, and wattage are different across brands. Using the wrong element can damage the dryer or create a fire hazard. Always order the part that matches your exact Whirlpool model number.

What if I cannot get the old wires off the terminals?

If the terminal screws are stuck or stripped, try spraying a small amount of penetrating oil like WD-40 around the screw and waiting 10 minutes. Then try again with a screwdriver that fits the screw head snugly. If the screw still will not budge, you can carefully cut the wires with wire cutters and strip the insulation, then attach new connectors to the new element.

Do I need to replace the thermal fuse even if it looks okay?

If the thermal fuse is visibly open (you can see a gap inside the cylinder), replace it. If it looks intact, you can test it with a multimeter set to ohms — a good fuse reads zero ohms, and an open fuse reads infinity. If you do not have a multimeter, replace it anyway; the part costs $15 to $30 and it is easier to replace it now than to troubleshoot later.

How long does a heating element usually last?

A heating element typically lasts 5 to 10 years depending on how often you use the dryer and whether the vent stays clean. If your dryer is more than 8 years old and the element fails, it is worth checking whether the rest of the dryer is still worth repairing, since other parts may fail soon after.