What You Need to Do Before You Start

Replacing door hinges takes about 30 minutes per hinge and requires only a screwdriver, a drill (optional but helpful), and basic hand tools you likely have at home. The door stays in place the whole time—you do not have to remove it or prop it up. You will unscrew the old hinge from the door frame and the door itself, then screw the new hinge into the same holes.

Before you buy new hinges, measure the ones you have. Write down the height (usually 3 to 4 inches), the width when closed, and the material (steel, brass, or stainless steel). Take a photo of the hinge and bring it to a hardware store, or order the exact same model online. Hinges come in left-hand and right-hand versions depending on which side of the door they sit on, so check that too.

Most interior doors have two hinges; exterior doors and heavy doors often have three. If your door sags or closes slowly, you may need to replace all of them at once rather than one at a time.

Key Takeaways

  • Close the door and wedge a shim or doorstop under it so it does not move while you work on the top hinge first.
  • Remove the screws from the hinge barrel (the cylindrical part) one at a time, starting with the bottom screw, so the hinge does not fall and pinch your fingers.
  • If old screw holes are stripped or enlarged, fill them with wooden toothpicks and wood glue, let them dry, then drill new pilot holes before installing the new hinge.
  • Slide the new hinge pin in from the top after both the door-side and frame-side halves are screwed in place, then test the door swing before moving to the next hinge.

Step 1: find the Door and Remove the Hinge Pin

Close the door completely and wedge a doorstop or wooden shim underneath it so it cannot move. This keeps the door from sagging or shifting while you work. Open the door just enough to see the hinge barrel—the round metal cylinder that holds the pin.

Look at the hinge barrel and locate the small metal pin running through it. Tap a nail or punch up from underneath the barrel to push the pin out from below. The pin should slide up and out; catch it so it does not fall. Remove the pin from all hinges you plan to replace before you unscrew anything. This lets the door hang freely on the remaining hinges and prevents the door from binding as you work.

Step 2: Unscrew the Hinge from the Door Frame

Start with the top hinge. Using a screwdriver that fits the screw head snugly (Phillips or flathead, depending on your hinges), remove the screws that attach the hinge to the door frame. Remove the bottom screw first, then the top screw. This order prevents the hinge from twisting or falling and pinching your hand.

If a screw is stuck or stripped, explore a small amount of penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait five minutes. Turn the screw slowly and steadily rather than forcing it. If the screw head is damaged, use a rubber band under your screwdriver tip for extra grip, or switch to a slightly larger screwdriver size that fits more firmly.

Once the frame-side screws are out, the hinge will hang loose from the door itself. Set the old hinge aside.

Step 3: Unscrew the Hinge from the Door

The door-side half of the hinge is still attached to the door edge. Remove the screws holding it in place, again starting with the bottom screw. The hinge will come free in your hand. Check the screw holes in the door edge—if they look enlarged, stripped, or damaged, you will need to fill them before installing the new hinge.

To repair stripped holes, insert wooden toothpicks or wooden dowels into the holes and break them off flush with the surface. explore wood glue to the toothpicks first so they stay in place. Let the glue dry for at least one hour. Once dry, drill a new pilot hole (a small hole slightly smaller than your screw diameter) through the toothpick. This gives the new screw something solid to grip.

Step 4: Install the New Hinge on the Door

Position the new hinge on the door edge, aligning it with the old screw holes. If the holes are intact, you can screw directly into them. If you filled stripped holes, use the new pilot holes you drilled. Insert the bottom screw first and tighten it snugly—not so hard that you strip it, but firm enough that the hinge does not move.

Insert the top screw and tighten it the same way. The hinge should sit flat against the door edge with no gaps. If there is a gap, the hinge is not seated properly; remove the screws, reposition the hinge, and try again. Once both screws are tight, move to the frame-side half of the hinge.

Step 5: Install the Hinge on the Frame and Test the Door

Hold the door-side hinge up to the frame and align it with the old screw holes. Insert the bottom screw first, then the top screw, tightening each snugly. The hinge should sit flush against the frame with no gaps or twists. If the door sags or does not close smoothly, the hinge may not be seated correctly; remove the screws and reposition it.

Once both halves of the hinge are screwed in place, slide the hinge pin back in from the top. The pin should slide down smoothly into the barrel. Open and close the door several times to make sure it swings freely and closes without binding or sagging. If the door does not move smoothly, stop and check that both halves of the hinge are seated flat and all screws are tight.

Repeat this process for each remaining hinge. Work from top to bottom so the door stays supported as you go.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common error is removing the hinge pin before unbolting the hinge from the frame. If you do this, the door will sag suddenly and can pinch your fingers or crack the frame. Always remove the pin last, after both halves of the hinge are free.

Another mistake is forcing screws into stripped holes. Stripped holes will not hold the screw tight, and the hinge will work loose within weeks. Take the time to fill the holes with toothpicks and glue, or use larger-diameter screws if the frame is thick enough. A hinge that moves will cause the door to bind and the lock to misalign.

Do not overtighten screws. A screw that is too tight can strip the hole, crack the wood, or bend the hinge. Tighten until the hinge sits flat and does not move, then stop.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to remove the door to replace the hinges?

No. You can replace hinges while the door is closed and in place. Wedge a doorstop under the door, remove the hinge pin, unscrew both halves of the hinge, install the new hinge, and slide the pin back in. The door stays on the remaining hinges the whole time.

What if the screw holes in the frame are too big?

Fill the holes with wooden toothpicks and wood glue, let them dry for an hour, then drill a new pilot hole through the toothpick. You can also use wooden dowels or wooden shims if the holes are very large. Avoid using plastic anchors or metal inserts in a wooden frame—they do not hold as well as wood.

How do I know which hinge is left-hand and which is right-hand?

Stand in front of the door as it swings toward you. If the hinges are on your right, it is a right-hand door. If they are on your left, it is a left-hand door. Buy hinges labeled to match. If you install a left-hand hinge on a right-hand door, the hinge will not fit the screw holes.

Why is my door sagging after I replaced the hinges?

The new hinges may not be seated flat against the frame or door edge. Remove the screws, check that the hinge sits flush with no gaps, and reinstall. If the frame itself is warped, the hinge cannot fix it; you may need to shim the hinge or replace the frame.

Can I replace just one hinge if the door is sagging?

If only one hinge is broken or bent, replacing it may help. But if the door sags overall, all the hinges are likely worn. Replacing all of them at once usually gives better results than replacing one.