Hood struts are the gas-filled rods that hold your hood open
A hood strut is a hydraulic rod that props your hood up so you can work on the engine without holding it. When one fails, your hood either slams shut on its own or won't stay open at all. Replacing them is a job you can do yourself with basic tools—no special equipment needed.
You'll need a socket wrench set, a flathead screwdriver, and new struts matched to your vehicle's year, make, and model. The whole job takes about 30 minutes once you have the right parts. The hardest part is not pinching your fingers when the hood drops.
Key Takeaways
- Hood struts are held on with a single bolt at each end and come out in under a minute per strut once you locate both attachment points.
- You must support the hood with a prop stick or have a helper hold it before you disconnect the struts, or the hood will fall.
- New struts must match your exact vehicle year and model—buying the wrong ones means a wasted trip back to the parts store.
- The strut ball joint pops off the mounting stud with gentle prying; forcing it risks bending the stud and creating a bigger repair.
Gather the right tools and parts before you start
Buy replacement struts from an auto parts store using your vehicle's year, make, model, and engine size. Bring your old strut with you if you're unsure—the staff can match it directly. Most struts cost between $20 and $60 each, and you need two (one for each side).
Lay out a socket wrench set, a flathead screwdriver, and a prop stick or wooden dowel about 2 feet long. If you don't have a prop stick, a broom handle works. Have a helper standing by—they'll hold the hood open while you work, or you can use the prop stick to support it yourself. Never work under a hood held up only by struts; if one breaks while you're underneath, the hood falls.
Support the hood before you disconnect anything
Open the hood all the way. Place your prop stick or wooden dowel under the hood, roughly in the center, so it rests against the engine bay frame. Lower the hood gently onto the stick until it's fully supported by the prop, not by the struts. The hood should feel solid and not move when you push on it.
If you're using a helper instead, have them hold the hood open with one hand while you work. This is safer than a prop stick because your helper can react if something shifts. Either way, the struts should be holding zero weight at this point—all the hood's weight is on the prop or your helper's hand.
Remove the old struts one at a time
Locate the top attachment point of the first strut. It bolts to the underside of the hood with a single bolt, usually a 10mm or 13mm socket size. Use your socket wrench to loosen and remove this bolt. The strut will hang loose but won't fall—it's still attached at the bottom.
Now find the bottom attachment point, usually on the engine bay frame or hinge bracket. This is also a single bolt. Remove it with your socket wrench. The strut is now free. Gently pull it straight out and set it aside. Repeat this process for the second strut on the other side of the hood.
Install the new struts in reverse order
Take the first new strut and align the bottom ball joint with the mounting stud on the engine bay frame. Push the ball joint onto the stud—it should slide on with firm, steady pressure. If it's stuck, use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the joint onto the stud. Do not hammer or force it; the stud can bend.
Once the bottom is seated, insert the bolt through the bottom attachment point and tighten it with your socket wrench. Then reach up to the hood and align the top of the strut with the bolt hole on the underside. Insert the top bolt and tighten it. The strut is now installed. Repeat for the second strut on the other side.
Test the hood before you finish
With both new struts installed, carefully lift your prop stick or have your helper release the hood. The hood should rise smoothly and stay open without drifting down. Push down on the hood gently—it should resist and not slam shut. If it falls or feels weak, stop and check that both bolts are tight and both ball joints are fully seated on their studs.
Close the hood slowly by hand and listen for a smooth, controlled descent. The hood should not drop suddenly or stick partway. If everything feels right, you're done. Dispose of the old struts at an auto parts store or recycling center—many stores take them for free when you buy new ones.
Common mistakes that cause problems
The most common error is removing both struts before supporting the hood. The hood is heavy—it will fall and can cause injury or damage. Always prop or support it first. The second mistake is forcing the ball joint onto the stud. If it won't slide on with steady pressure, stop and check that you have the right strut for your vehicle. Forcing a wrong part can bend the mounting stud permanently.
A third mistake is tightening the bolts too hard. Use firm pressure with your wrench, but don't crank with all your strength—you can strip the threads or crack the mounting bracket. If a bolt spins without tightening, the hole may be stripped, and you'll need a larger bolt or a threaded insert repair. Stop and assess before continuing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace just one hood strut, or do I have to replace both?
Replace both at the same time. If one strut has failed, the other is likely wearing out and will fail soon. Replacing only one leaves you with uneven hood support and a second failure waiting to happen. The cost difference is small, and the job is the same either way.
What if the ball joint won't come off the mounting stud?
Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the joint upward while twisting the strut slightly. Do not hammer or yank—you can bend the stud. If it's truly stuck, spray penetrating oil around the joint, wait 10 minutes, and try again. Patience works better than force here.
How do I know if I bought the wrong struts?
The ball joint diameter won't match the mounting stud, or the bolt holes won't align with the hood and frame. Check this before you remove the old struts. If the new ones don't fit, return them and verify the year, make, model, and engine size with the parts store staff.
Do I need to adjust anything after installation?
No. Hood struts are not adjustable. They either work or they don't. If the hood doesn't stay open or falls too fast after installation, the struts are defective or you installed them incorrectly. Check that both bolts are tight and both ball joints are fully seated, then test again.
What should I do with the old struts?
Most auto parts stores accept old struts for recycling when you buy new ones, often at no charge. You can also take them to a scrap metal recycler or hazardous waste facility—they contain pressurized gas and should not go in regular trash.