Most ice maker replacements take 15 to 30 minutes and cost $100 to $300 for the part
Replacing an ice maker yourself is straightforward if your refrigerator model supports it. You turn off the water supply, remove the old unit by unbolting it or sliding it out, and install the new one by reversing those steps. The hardest part is usually finding the water shut-off valve behind or under your fridge and identifying which bolts or clips hold the old maker in place.
The cost depends on your refrigerator brand and whether you buy a manufacturer part or a third-party replacement. Manufacturer parts (made by Whirlpool, LG, Samsung, and others) typically run $150 to $300. Third-party parts cost $80 to $150 but may have shorter warranties. Labor from an appliance technician adds $150 to $250 on top of the part cost if you choose not to do it yourself.
Not all refrigerators have replaceable ice makers. Some models have the ice maker permanently soldered into the freezer wall, which requires a technician. Check your manual or search your model number plus "ice maker replacement" to confirm yours can be replaced at home.
Key Takeaways
- You will need your refrigerator's exact model number to order the correct replacement ice maker, which you can find on a sticker inside the fridge or freezer.
- The water supply valve behind your refrigerator must be turned off before you disconnect the old ice maker, or water will leak when you remove it.
- Most ice makers bolt or clip to the freezer wall and take 10 to 20 minutes to remove and reinstall once you locate the fasteners.
- After installation, you may need to run water through the new maker for 5 to 10 minutes to flush the line and clear air before ice production starts.
Finding your refrigerator model number and the correct replacement part
Your refrigerator's model number is printed on a sticker inside the fridge, usually on the back wall or on the side wall near the top. Write it down or take a photo. Search that model number plus "ice maker replacement" on the manufacturer's website or on appliance parts retailers like PartSelect, Sears Parts Direct, or Amazon.
Manufacturer websites (Whirlpool, LG, Samsung, GE, Frigidaire, and others) have parts diagrams that show the ice maker assembly and list compatible replacements. Third-party retailers often have the same parts at lower prices and may offer faster shipping. Compare the part number in the diagram to the one you are ordering — a single digit difference means a different part.
Before you order, check whether your model uses a water line. If your ice maker is manual-fill (you pour water into a reservoir), you do not need a water connection and the replacement is simpler. If it is automatic-fill, you will need the water line connected during installation.
Turning off the water supply and locating the shut-off valve
Pull your refrigerator away from the wall far enough to see behind it. Look for a small valve on the water line that runs to the back of the fridge — it is usually a small knob or lever on a copper or plastic tube. Turn it clockwise (or pull the lever toward you, depending on the type) until it stops. This stops water from flowing to the ice maker.
If you cannot find a valve behind the refrigerator, the shut-off may be under the sink in the cabinet below, or it may be on the main water line in your basement or utility room. If you cannot locate it, you can shut off the water to your entire house at the main valve, though this is less convenient. Do not skip this step — disconnecting the water line without shutting off the supply will cause a leak.
After you turn off the valve, open the ice maker door or access panel and press the dispenser lever for a few seconds to release any remaining water pressure in the line. This prevents water from spraying when you disconnect the old maker.
Removing the old ice maker
Open your freezer and locate the ice maker unit. It is usually mounted on the right or left wall of the freezer, near the top. Look for bolts or clips holding it in place — most models have two or three bolts on the sides or back, or plastic clips that slide or snap into place. Use a socket wrench or screwdriver to remove bolts, or press the release tabs to unclip it.
Once the bolts or clips are removed, gently pull the ice maker toward you. You will see a water line connected to the back or bottom of the unit — it is usually a small plastic tube with a connector. Pinch the connector or unscrew it by hand (some have a small nut) to disconnect the water line. Have a small cup or towel ready in case a little water drips out.
Set the old ice maker aside. If it still works, you can donate it or recycle it at an appliance recycling center. Do not throw it in the trash — refrigerator parts contain materials that need proper disposal.
Installing the new ice maker and reconnecting the water line
Take the new ice maker out of its box and check that all parts are included — the unit itself, any mounting brackets, and the water connector. Position it in the same location as the old one, aligning the bolt holes or clip slots. Insert the bolts and tighten them by hand first, then use a wrench to snug them down — do not over-tighten, as this can crack the plastic housing.
Connect the water line to the back or bottom of the new ice maker. Push the plastic tube into the connector until you hear a click, or screw the connector nut on by hand and then tighten it a quarter turn with a wrench. Do not over-tighten — the connection only needs to be snug enough to prevent leaks.
Turn the water shut-off valve back on by turning it counterclockwise (or pulling the lever away from you). Listen for water flowing into the ice maker — you may hear a brief hum or click as the fill cycle starts. This is normal.
Running the ice maker and clearing the water line
After installation, the water line contains air that must be flushed out before the ice maker produces clear ice. Press the dispenser lever or use the ice maker's manual fill button (if it has one) to run water through the line for 5 to 10 minutes. The first few batches of ice may be cloudy or misshapen — discard these and run the cycle again until the ice looks clear.
Most ice makers take 24 to 48 hours to produce a full bin of ice after installation. If your ice maker has a test button (usually a small button on the front or back of the unit), press it to run a manual fill cycle and speed up the process. Check the freezer every few hours to make sure water is flowing and ice is forming.
If no water flows or the ice maker does not cycle, turn off the water valve and check the connection at the back of the unit. Make sure the connector is fully seated and the valve behind the fridge is fully open. If water still does not flow, the water line may be kinked or blocked — trace it from the fridge to the wall and straighten any bends.
Troubleshooting common problems after replacement
If the ice maker leaks, the water connector is usually the culprit. Turn off the water valve, disconnect the line, and reconnect it firmly — push the tube all the way in until you feel resistance, or tighten the connector nut another quarter turn. If it still leaks, the connector may be defective and needs to be replaced.
If the ice maker cycles but produces no ice, the water line may be frozen or blocked. Check that the freezer temperature is set to 0°F or below — ice makers do not work if the freezer is warmer than this. If the temperature is correct, the water line may be clogged. Disconnect it and blow air through it to clear any blockage, then reconnect and test again.
If the ice maker does not cycle at all, check that the power cord is plugged in (some models have a separate plug) and that the fill valve is receiving power. Most ice makers have a small light that turns on during the fill cycle — if you do not see this light, the unit may not be getting power or the fill valve may be faulty. Contact the manufacturer for a warranty replacement if the unit is new.
When to call a technician instead of replacing it yourself
If your refrigerator manual says the ice maker is not user-replaceable, or if the ice maker is soldered or glued into the freezer wall, you will need a technician. Some older or high-end models have ice makers that are integrated into the freezer assembly and cannot be removed without specialized tools.
If you turn on the water valve and water leaks from under the refrigerator or from the wall connection, the problem may be in the main water line rather than the ice maker itself. In this case, a plumber or appliance technician should inspect the line before you install a new ice maker.
If you are uncomfortable working with water connections or electrical components, or if you do not have the tools to remove the old ice maker, hiring a technician is a reasonable choice. The labor cost is usually $150 to $250, and the technician can often complete the job in under an hour.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to turn off the power to the refrigerator before replacing the ice maker?
No, you do not need to turn off the power. The ice maker is a low-voltage component, and turning off the water supply is sufficient. However, unplugging the fridge for a few minutes before you start can discharge any residual power and is a safe practice if you are uncomfortable working near electrical components.
Can I use a third-party ice maker instead of the manufacturer's part?
Yes, third-party ice makers are usually compatible and cost less. Check the part number against your model number to confirm compatibility, and read reviews to see if other users report problems. Third-party parts often have shorter warranties (one year instead of three), so factor that into your decision.
How long does it take for the new ice maker to start producing ice?
Most ice makers produce their first batch within 2 to 4 hours of installation, though it may take 24 to 48 hours to fill the bin completely. The first few batches may be cloudy or small — this is normal as air clears from the water line. Discard the first batch and run another cycle.
What if water leaks from the connection after I install the new ice maker?
Turn off the water valve when ready and disconnect the water line. Reconnect it firmly — push the plastic tube all the way into the connector until you feel it seat, or tighten the connector nut another quarter turn. Reconnect the water and test. If it still leaks, the connector may be defective and needs replacement.
Can I install a new ice maker if my refrigerator does not have a water line?
No, if your refrigerator was not built with a water connection, you cannot add one without running a water line from your kitchen plumbing. You can buy a manual-fill ice maker that you refill by hand, but these are not common. It is usually easier to have a plumber run a water line if you want automatic ice production.