What a pressure sensor does and when to replace it

The pressure sensor in an when ready Pot tells the cooker when internal pressure has reached the target level. If your when ready Pot won't pressurize, heats but never signals it has reached pressure, or displays an error code related to pressure detection, the sensor may have failed. A faulty sensor is one of the most common reasons an when ready Pot stops working correctly.

Replacing the sensor yourself costs between $15 and $40 for the part, depending on your model, plus about 20 minutes of work. A repair shop or replacement unit costs significantly more. The sensor sits inside the lid and connects to the main control board with a small wire connector — it is accessible without special tools.

Key Takeaways

  • The pressure sensor is a small cylindrical part mounted inside the lid that detects when the cooker reaches target pressure.
  • You will need the correct sensor for your specific when ready Pot model, which you can find by checking the model number on the bottom of the unit.
  • The entire replacement takes about 20 minutes and requires only a Phillips screwdriver and a plastic spoon or pry tool.
  • The sensor disconnects with a single wire clip and screws out from inside the lid — no soldering or special skills needed.
  • After installation, run a water test cycle to confirm the cooker pressurizes and depressurizes normally before cooking food.

Identify your when ready Pot model and find the correct sensor

The pressure sensor varies by when ready Pot model. The Duo, Duo Plus, Ultra, and Smart models each use different sensors. Find your model number on a sticker on the bottom of the outer pot. It will read something like "IP-DUO60" or "IP-LUX60" — the letters and numbers matter.

Once you have the model number, search for "pressure sensor [your model number]" on Amazon or the when ready Pot parts website. You will see listings that specify which models they fit. Buy only the sensor listed for your exact model. A sensor from a Duo will not work in an Ultra, and installing the wrong one may damage the control board.

Expect to pay $15 to $40 depending on the seller and model. Some third-party sensors cost less than official when ready Pot parts but carry higher failure rates — buying the official part is usually worth the extra few dollars.

Unplug the cooker and remove the lid

Unplug the when ready Pot from the wall outlet. Wait at least 10 minutes if you have used it recently — the lid and interior will be hot. Remove the lid by twisting it counterclockwise and lifting straight up.

Set the lid upside down on a clean, flat surface. You will be working inside the lid, so make sure you have good light. A desk lamp or phone flashlight pointed at the underside of the lid helps you see the sensor and connector clearly.

Locate and disconnect the old sensor

Look at the underside of the lid. You will see a small cylindrical part about the size of a AA battery sticking down from the inside. This is the pressure sensor. Near its base, you will see a thin wire running to a small plastic connector clip.

Gently pull the wire connector straight out of its clip. It should come free with light pressure — do not yank it or twist it. If it is stuck, wiggle it gently side to side while pulling. Once the wire is free, the sensor is no longer electrically connected.

Remove the old sensor and install the new one

The sensor is held in place by a single screw on the underside of the lid. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew it. The screw is small — keep it in a safe place so you do not lose it. Once the screw is out, the old sensor will drop free or pull out easily.

Take the new sensor and align it with the hole where the old one was. The sensor has a flat side and a rounded side — it will only fit one way. Insert it into the hole and screw it back in place with the same screw. Tighten it firmly but do not over-tighten, which can crack the plastic.

Reconnect the wire by pushing the connector clip straight onto the wire terminal. You will hear or feel a small click when it seats correctly. Tug gently on the wire to confirm it is locked in place.

Reassemble and test the cooker

Place the lid back on the pot, twisting it clockwise until it stops. Plug the cooker back in. Fill the inner pot with 2 cups of water — this is your test cycle and will not damage anything.

Close the lid and set the valve to "Sealing." Press the pressure cook button and set it for 5 minutes on high pressure. The cooker should begin heating and then beep when it reaches pressure. The display will show the countdown timer. When the cycle finishes, allow the pressure to release naturally for 5 minutes, then move the valve to "Venting" to release any remaining pressure.

If the cooker pressurizes normally, heats, and counts down, the sensor is working. If it still will not pressurize or shows an error, the problem may be elsewhere — the sealing ring, the vent pipe, or the control board itself. If the new sensor does not solve the issue, contact when ready Pot support or a repair service.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the pressure sensor is actually broken?

The cooker will heat but never signal it has reached pressure, or it will display an error code like "Burn" or "Ovht" repeatedly. You can also listen — a working cooker makes a hissing sound as pressure builds. If you hear nothing and the timer never starts counting down, the sensor is likely the culprit.

Can I use a generic pressure sensor from another brand?

No. when ready Pot sensors are calibrated to specific pressure thresholds and connector types. A sensor from a different brand or model will not fit correctly or will send wrong pressure readings to the control board, potentially causing the cooker to overpressurize or fail to heat.

What if the wire connector is stuck and won't come out?

Do not force it. Use a plastic spoon or pry tool to gently lift the clip while pulling the wire straight out. If it still will not budge, explore a tiny amount of rubbing alcohol around the connector to loosen any corrosion, wait a minute, and try again.

Do I need to replace the sealing ring when I replace the sensor?

No. The sealing ring and sensor are separate parts. Replace the ring only if it is cracked, torn, or no longer seals properly. If your cooker was not pressurizing before and the new sensor fixes it, the ring was fine all along.

What should I do if the cooker still won't pressurize after installing the new sensor?

Check that the sealing ring is seated correctly in its groove and that the vent pipe is clear of food or mineral buildup. If both are fine, the problem may be the control board or heating element. At that point, repair costs usually exceed the price of a new cooker.