What You Need to Know Before You Start

A Maytag dryer heating element burns out after years of use and stops producing heat. Replacing it yourself costs $30 to $80 for the part, versus $200 to $400 if you call a technician. The job takes 30 to 60 minutes and requires only basic tools: a screwdriver, a multimeter to test the old element, and possibly a socket wrench depending on your model.

The heating element sits inside the dryer drum and looks like a coiled wire inside a metal sheath. When it fails, your clothes come out damp or cold. Before you buy a replacement, confirm the element is actually broken by checking for visible damage or testing it with a multimeter — a reading of zero ohms means the element is dead.

Safety matters: unplug the dryer before you touch anything inside, and let it cool for at least 30 minutes if it has been running. The heating element gets extremely hot during operation.

Key Takeaways

  • Unplug the dryer and let it cool completely before opening the cabinet or touching any internal parts.
  • Order a replacement element that matches your exact Maytag model number, which you can find on the serial plate inside the door frame.
  • The heating element is located in the blower housing at the bottom of the dryer and is held in place by two or three bolts.
  • Test the old element with a multimeter set to ohms; a reading of zero or infinity means it has failed and needs replacement.
  • After installation, run the dryer empty for 10 minutes to confirm heat is working before drying clothes.

Finding Your Model Number and Ordering the Right Part

Open the dryer door and look at the frame on the right side — you will see a white or silver label with the model number printed on it. Write down the full number; it usually starts with "MEDC" or "MEDL" followed by digits. Take a photo of the label with your phone so you have it handy when ordering.

Search for "[your model number] heating element" on the Maytag website or a parts retailer like AppliancePartsPros or PartSelect. The part number will be different from the model number — it typically starts with "WP" or "AP" and is four to six digits. Confirm the part number matches before you buy. Maytag heating elements are not interchangeable across all models, so ordering the wrong one wastes money and time.

Removing the Front Panel and Accessing the Heating Element

Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet. If it is a gas dryer, also turn off the gas valve at the wall. Wait at least 30 minutes for the dryer to cool.

Most Maytag dryers have a front panel that must come off first. Look along the bottom edge of the dryer for two or three screws holding the panel in place. Remove them with a screwdriver and pull the panel straight toward you. Some models have a clip at the top of the panel instead of a screw — release it by hand or with a flat screwdriver.

Once the front panel is off, you will see the blower housing and lint trap. The heating element is mounted inside the blower housing, which sits at the bottom center of the dryer. You may need to remove the lint trap or a small cover to access the element bolts.

Disconnecting and Removing the Old Element

The heating element has two or three bolts holding it to the blower housing. Use a socket wrench or adjustable wrench to remove these bolts — they are usually 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch. Keep the bolts in a small container so you do not lose them.

Once the bolts are out, gently pull the element straight out of the housing. You will see two wire terminals on the back of the element where it connects to the dryer's electrical circuit. These terminals straightforward pull off — no tools needed. Set the old element aside.

Before you install the new one, test the old element with a multimeter to confirm it is actually dead. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting (marked with the omega symbol Ω). Touch one probe to each terminal on the back of the element. A reading of zero or infinity means the element has failed. A reading between 10 and 20 ohms means the element is still good, and the problem is elsewhere — stop here and call a technician.

Installing the New Heating Element

Take the new element out of its packaging and inspect it for damage. The coil should be intact and the metal sheath should not be dented or cracked. If it looks damaged, do not install it — contact the retailer for a replacement.

Push the two wire terminals onto the back of the new element. They should click or snap into place. If they are loose, the element will not heat and may cause a fire hazard, so make sure they are seated firmly.

Slide the element into the blower housing, aligning the bolt holes. Insert the bolts and tighten them by hand first, then use the wrench to snug them down. Do not over-tighten — you only need them tight enough that the element does not move. Over-tightening can crack the element housing.

Reassembling the Dryer and Testing

Replace the lint trap or cover you removed earlier. Slide the front panel back into place and reinstall the screws or clips. Make sure the panel sits flush against the dryer body with no gaps.

Plug the dryer back in. If it is a gas dryer, turn the gas valve back on. Close the dryer door and run the dryer on high heat with no clothes inside for 10 minutes. You should feel warm air coming out of the vent. If the air is cold or barely warm, unplug the dryer when ready and check that the wire terminals are seated properly on the back of the element.

Once you confirm heat is working, the job is done. Run a normal drying cycle with a small load of clothes to make sure everything operates as expected.

When to Call a Technician Instead

If you test the old element and it reads between 10 and 20 ohms, the element is not the problem. The issue could be a broken thermal fuse, a faulty thermostat, or a wiring problem — all of which require a technician to diagnose and fix safely.

If you remove the front panel and cannot locate the heating element, or if the blower housing is damaged or corroded, stop and call a technician. Forcing the job in those cases risks damaging other parts or creating a safety hazard.

If the new element does not produce heat after installation, unplug the dryer and recheck the wire terminal connections. If they are seated properly and the dryer still does not heat, the problem may be in the electrical circuit or control board — call a technician.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a Maytag dryer heating element last?

Most heating elements last 3 to 5 years with regular use, though some last longer depending on how often you run the dryer and whether you clean the lint trap regularly. A clogged lint trap forces the element to work harder and fail sooner.

Can I use a generic heating element instead of a Maytag part?

Generic elements designed for your model number work fine and usually cost less than OEM parts. Make sure the part number matches your model before you buy, and buy from a reputable parts retailer. Avoid extremely cheap elements from unknown sellers — they may fail quickly or pose a fire risk.

What does it mean if the dryer gets hot but clothes stay wet?

A wet load with heat usually means the vent is clogged, not the heating element. Check the vent hose behind the dryer for lint buildup and clean it out. If the vent is clear and clothes are still wet, the heating element may be failing — test it with a multimeter.

Do I need to replace the thermal fuse when I replace the heating element?

No, the thermal fuse and heating element are separate parts. Replace only the element unless the fuse has blown. You will know the fuse is blown if the dryer does not turn on at all, even though it is plugged in.

Is it safe to run the dryer right after installing a new element?

Yes, as long as you have tested the connections and run it empty for 10 minutes first. A new element may smell slightly as it heats for the first time — this is normal and will fade after a few cycles.