Turn Off Power Before You Touch Anything

The first and only non-negotiable step is to cut power to the outlet you are replacing. Go to your breaker box and flip the switch that controls that outlet to the OFF position. If you do not know which breaker controls which outlet, flip the main breaker instead — it will kill power to the whole house, but that is safer than guessing.

After you flip the breaker, test the outlet with a lamp or phone charger to confirm it is dead. Do not skip this step. A live outlet can deliver a shock strong enough to stop your heart.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off the breaker controlling the outlet and test it with a device to confirm power is off before you begin.
  • Remove the cover plate, unscrew the old outlet, and disconnect the three wires — black (hot), white (neutral), and bare copper (ground) — noting which terminal each one was attached to.
  • Connect the wires to the new outlet in the same order: black to brass, white to silver, copper to green, then screw the outlet back into the box.
  • Outlets cost between $1 and $5 each; the job takes 15 to 30 minutes once power is off.

Remove the Old Outlet and Disconnect the Wires

Unscrew and remove the cover plate. Then unscrew the two screws holding the outlet to the electrical box — one at the top and one at the bottom. Pull the outlet out gently until you can see the three wires attached to the back or sides.

The three wires are always the same: black (hot), white (neutral), and bare copper (ground). Look at which terminal each wire is connected to on the old outlet. The black wire goes to a brass-colored terminal, the white wire goes to a silver-colored terminal, and the copper wire goes to a green terminal. Write this down or take a photo — you will connect the new outlet the same way.

Loosen the terminal screws and pull each wire out. If the wires are pushed into holes rather than wrapped around screws, use a small flathead screwdriver to press the release tab while pulling the wire out.

Connect the Wires to the New Outlet

Strip about half an inch of insulation from the end of each wire if the ends are damaged or corroded. Bend each wire into a hook shape — this makes it easier to wrap around the terminal screw.

Connect the wires in this order: wrap the black wire around the brass terminal screw and tighten it. Wrap the white wire around the silver terminal screw and tighten it. Wrap the bare copper wire around the green terminal screw and tighten it. Pull each wire gently after tightening to make sure it does not slip.

If your outlet has push-in holes instead of screw terminals, insert each wire straight into the matching hole — black into the brass hole, white into the silver hole, copper into the green hole. Push firmly until the wire stops.

Screw the Outlet Back Into the Box

Carefully push the outlet back into the electrical box, making sure the wires fold neatly behind it and do not get pinched. Screw the top and bottom screws back in — hand-tight is enough; do not over-tighten.

Screw the cover plate back on. Turn the breaker back on at the panel. Test the outlet with a lamp or phone charger to confirm it works.

What Outlets Cost and How Long This Takes

A standard duplex outlet (the kind with two sockets) costs between $1 and $5 at any hardware store. Specialty outlets — USB outlets, GFCI outlets, or 240-volt outlets — cost more, usually $10 to $30. The replacement itself takes 15 to 30 minutes once the power is off.

If you are replacing more than one outlet in the same room, turn off the breaker once and do all of them before turning it back on. This saves time and reduces the number of times you have to go to the breaker box.

When to Call an Electrician Instead

Do not attempt this job if the wires are damaged, discolored, or smell burnt. Do not do it if the outlet box is cracked or loose in the wall. Do not do it if you cannot identify which breaker controls the outlet or if the breaker will not stay in the OFF position. These are signs of a larger electrical problem that needs a licensed electrician.

If you are uncomfortable working with electricity at any point, stop and call an electrician. The cost of a service call is worth avoiding injury or fire.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if the wires are too short to reach the new outlet?

If the wires are cut too short, you will need to extend them using wire connectors and additional wire, or have an electrician do it. This is beyond a basic replacement and usually requires a licensed electrician because the connections must be made inside an approved junction box.

Can I replace an outlet while the power is on?

No. A live outlet can deliver a fatal shock. Always turn off the breaker and test the outlet with a device before you touch any wires.

What is the difference between a standard outlet and a GFCI outlet?

A GFCI outlet has a TEST and RESET button on the face and is designed to shut off power when ready if it detects a ground fault — a dangerous condition where electricity is flowing where it should not. GFCI outlets are required in bathrooms, kitchens, and outdoor areas. If you are replacing an outlet in one of these locations, use a GFCI outlet.

Do I need to turn off the whole house or just the one breaker?

Turning off just the breaker that controls the outlet is enough. Turning off the main breaker kills power to everything, which is safer if you are unsure which breaker to use, but it is not necessary if you can identify the right one.

What if I connect the wires to the wrong terminals?

The outlet will not work, or it may work but be wired backwards, which is a shock hazard. If you turn the breaker back on and the outlet does not work, turn it off when ready, check your connections against the old outlet, and correct them.