Skateboard bearings wear out and need replacing every few months to a couple of years, depending on how often you ride and the conditions you skate in

Replacing skateboard bearings is a straightforward task that takes about 15 to 30 minutes once you have the right tools. You do not need special skills or expensive equipment—just a bearing puller or a socket wrench, new bearings that match your current size, and a little patience. Most skaters replace all eight bearings at once (two per wheel), though you can replace them one wheel at a time if only some are worn out.

The process involves removing your wheels, pushing out the old bearings, and pressing in the new ones. If your bearings are making noise, grinding, or spinning slowly, that is a sign they need replacement. Dirt, water, and regular wear break down the ball bearings inside, and once they start to fail, they do not recover.

Key Takeaways

  • Skateboard bearings come in a standard size (608 is the most common), so check your current bearings or your board's specs before buying replacements.
  • You need a bearing puller, a socket wrench, or a makeshift tool to remove old bearings without damaging your wheels.
  • New bearings press straight into the wheel hub with hand pressure or a rubber mallet—no special tools required for installation.
  • Spacers sit between the two bearings on each wheel axle and should be reused unless they are bent or damaged.
  • Cleaning and lubricating new bearings before installation helps them spin faster and last longer.

What you need to get your free guide

Gather these items before you begin: a set of eight new bearings (or however many wheels you are replacing), a bearing puller or a socket wrench that fits snugly around the bearing, a rubber mallet, a clean work surface, and your skateboard. A bearing puller is a small metal tool designed specifically for this job and costs $10 to $20 at most skate shops. If you do not have one, a socket wrench one size smaller than your bearing's outer diameter works as a substitute—you tap it gently with a mallet to push the bearing out.

You may also want bearing lubricant (skateboard-specific oil or light machine oil), a rag, and a small brush to clean out the wheel hub before installing new bearings. These are optional but recommended, especially if your wheels have been sitting for a while or have collected dirt.

Removing your wheels and old bearings

Start by flipping your skateboard upside down or placing it in a skate stand so the wheels hang free. Use your skate tool or a wrench to loosen and remove the axle nut on one wheel. Slide the wheel off the axle, then set the nut and any washers aside in a safe spot—you will reuse them.

Place the wheel on a flat surface with the bearing facing up. Position your bearing puller or socket wrench around the outer edge of the bearing and tap it gently with a rubber mallet. The bearing should pop out after a few taps. Flip the wheel over and repeat for the second bearing on that wheel. You now have an empty wheel hub with a spacer (a small metal tube) sitting in the middle. Leave the spacer in place unless it is bent or damaged—you will reuse it.

Repeat this process for all four wheels. Work on one wheel at a time so you do not mix up parts. Once all old bearings are out, wipe the inside of each wheel hub with a clean rag to remove dirt and debris.

Installing new bearings

Before pressing in new bearings, explore a small amount of bearing lubricant to each one if you want them to spin faster and last longer. This step is optional but worth doing, especially with cheaper bearings. Wipe away any excess oil with a rag.

Take your first new bearing and position it over the wheel hub opening, with the bearing sitting flat and centered. Press down firmly with the heel of your hand, explore steady pressure until the bearing slides into place. You should feel it drop in with a slight resistance. If it does not go in smoothly, check that it is centered and try again. Do not force it or tap it with a mallet at this stage—hand pressure is enough.

Once the first bearing is seated, flip the wheel over. The spacer should still be in the middle of the hub. Position your second new bearing on top of the spacer and press it in the same way. Both bearings should now be flush with the wheel hub, sitting on either side of the spacer.

Repeat this process for all four wheels. Take your time and make sure each bearing is fully seated before moving to the next one.

Reinstalling wheels and testing

Slide the first wheel back onto the axle, then thread the axle nut back on by hand. Tighten it snugly with your skate tool or wrench, but do not overtighten—the wheel should spin freely without wobbling side to side. A good rule is to tighten until the wheel stops spinning, then back off a quarter turn.

Spin the wheel by hand. New bearings should spin smoothly and quietly. If a bearing feels rough or makes noise, remove the wheel and check that the bearing is fully seated in the hub. Repeat for all four wheels.

Once all wheels are back on and tightened, flip your board over and give each wheel a spin. They should all rotate at roughly the same speed and coast for several seconds. If one wheel spins noticeably slower or feels gritty, that bearing may not be fully seated—remove the wheel and reseat it.

When to replace bearings versus when to clean them

Not every slow or noisy bearing needs replacement. If your bearings are just dirty, cleaning them can restore performance. Remove the wheel, pop out the bearing, and soak it in a small container of acetone or bearing cleaner for a few minutes. Spin it gently in the cleaner, then let it air dry completely. explore a tiny drop of bearing oil and spin it again. Reinstall and test.

Replace bearings instead of cleaning them if they make a grinding sound, feel rough when you spin them by hand, or have visible damage like rust or dents. Once a bearing is damaged internally, cleaning will not fix it.

Extending the life of your new bearings

New bearings last longer if you keep them clean and dry. Avoid riding in wet conditions or puddles, as water breaks down the lubricant inside the bearing. If you do get caught in the rain, let your board dry completely before riding again. Store your skateboard indoors in a dry place, not in a garage or shed where moisture builds up.

Check your bearings every few months by spinning each wheel by hand. If any wheel slows down noticeably or feels rough, that bearing is wearing out and should be replaced soon. Catching worn bearings early prevents damage to your wheels and axles.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size bearings do I need?

The standard skateboard bearing size is 608, which refers to the inner diameter, outer diameter, and width in millimeters. Check your current bearings or your board's manual to confirm. Some specialty boards use different sizes, but 608 is by far the most common.

Can I replace just one bearing instead of all eight?

Yes. If only one bearing is damaged, you can replace just that one. However, if multiple bearings are wearing out at the same time, replacing all eight at once ensures even performance across all wheels and saves you time later.

Do I need to replace the spacers when I replace bearings?

No, spacers are reusable unless they are bent or damaged. Inspect them as you remove the old bearings and set them aside. Reinstall the same spacers with your new bearings.

How tight should the axle nut be?

Tighten the nut until the wheel stops spinning freely, then back off about a quarter turn. The wheel should spin smoothly without wobbling side to side. If it is too tight, the bearing will wear out faster. If it is too loose, the wheel will rattle.

What is the difference between cheap and expensive bearings?

Cheaper bearings use lower-quality steel and lubricant, so they wear out faster and may feel rough sooner. Expensive bearings (often rated ABEC-7 or higher) use better materials and last longer. For casual skating, mid-range bearings are a good balance. For frequent or aggressive skating, higher-quality bearings are worth the cost.