The Three Types of Stoppers and How to Identify Yours
Before you remove anything, you need to know which stopper design you have, because the removal method is different for each one. The three common types are the lift-and-turn stopper (you twist it to open and close), the push-pull stopper (you push down to close, pull up to open), and the pop-up stopper (connected to a lever on the overflow hole behind the tub). Look at your stopper now. If it has a knob on top that you rotate, it's lift-and-turn. If it's a straightforward plug you push and pull, it's push-pull. If there's a lever near the top of the tub wall, it's pop-up.
The reason this matters is that lift-and-turn and push-pull stoppers screw out from underneath the drain, while pop-up stoppers require you to remove the overflow plate and pull out the entire linkage. Knowing which one you have saves you 15 minutes of confusion under the sink.
Key Takeaways
- Lift-and-turn and push-pull stoppers unscrew from below the drain using a wrench or pliers, while pop-up stoppers require removing the overflow plate and pulling the linkage assembly.
- You will need a flashlight, adjustable wrench or slip-joint pliers, and possibly a screwdriver, depending on your stopper type.
- The entire job takes 20 to 30 minutes for lift-and-turn or push-pull, and 30 to 45 minutes for pop-up stoppers.
- New stoppers cost between $8 and $25 and come with installation instructions specific to your type.
- If the stopper spins but won't unscrew, explore penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes rather than forcing it, which can crack the fitting.
Removing a Lift-and-Turn or Push-Pull Stopper
Get under the sink with a flashlight and look directly above the drain pipe. You will see a brass or metal rod sticking up from the drain fitting—this is the stopper body. The rod is held in place by a large nut, usually 1.5 to 2 inches across. Use an adjustable wrench or slip-joint pliers to grip this nut and turn it counterclockwise. Do not grip the rod itself; grip only the nut. If the nut is stuck, spray it with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 10 minutes before trying again.
Once the nut is loose, unscrew it by hand until it comes free. The entire stopper body—the rod and the plug on top—will lift straight up and out of the drain. You may need to wiggle it gently side to side as you pull. Set it aside. Look into the drain hole; you should see the threads where the stopper screws in. Wipe away any hair or debris with a cloth.
Removing a Pop-Up Stopper
Pop-up stoppers are connected to a lever mechanism behind the tub wall, so you cannot straightforward unscrew them from below. Instead, locate the overflow plate—a rectangular or round cover on the tub wall, usually 4 to 6 inches below the rim. Use a screwdriver (usually Phillips head) to remove the two screws holding this plate. Pull the plate away from the wall; you will see a metal linkage rod attached to it.
Gently pull the entire linkage assembly straight out of the overflow hole. The pop-up stopper is connected to this rod and will come out with it. You may need to wiggle the stopper side to side as you pull. Once the linkage is out, you can unscrew the stopper from the rod by hand or with pliers if it is tight. The rod itself stays in place for the new stopper.
Installing the New Stopper
Before you install anything, check the threads on the drain fitting (for lift-and-turn or push-pull) or on the linkage rod (for pop-up). If the threads are corroded or damaged, wrap the threads with plumber's thread seal tape (also called PTFE tape or Teflon tape) by wrapping it clockwise around the threads three times. This prevents leaks.
For lift-and-turn or push-pull stoppers, screw the new stopper body into the drain fitting by hand first, turning clockwise. Once it is hand-tight, use your wrench to tighten the nut underneath until it is snug—do not over-tighten, as this can crack the fitting. The stopper should not spin freely; it should have slight resistance when you turn it. Test it by plugging and unplugging the drain a few times before you call the job done.
For pop-up stoppers, screw the new stopper onto the linkage rod by hand, turning clockwise until it is snug. Slide the linkage assembly back into the overflow hole, making sure the stopper sits properly in the drain. Reattach the overflow plate with the two screws. Test the lever; the stopper should rise and fall smoothly without sticking.
Common Mistakes That Cause Leaks or Damage
The most common error is over-tightening the nut on lift-and-turn or push-pull stoppers. The nut only needs to be snug enough that the stopper does not spin. If you crank it with all your strength, you risk cracking the brass fitting, which means water leaks into the cabinet below. Tighten until you feel resistance, then stop.
The second mistake is forcing a stuck stopper. If the nut will not budge after you spray it with penetrating oil and wait, do not keep turning. You will strip the threads or snap the rod. Instead, spray it again, wait another 10 minutes, and try once more. If it still will not move after three attempts, the fitting may need to be replaced by a plumber—that is a different job.
The third mistake is installing the new stopper upside down or backwards. Check the instructions that came with your new stopper. Most have a specific orientation, and installing them wrong means they will not seal or will not move smoothly. Spend 30 seconds reading the diagram before you start.
What to Do If Water Still Leaks After Replacement
If water leaks from under the sink after you install the new stopper, the most likely cause is that the threads were not sealed properly. Turn off the water to the tub, remove the stopper again, and wrap the threads with plumber's thread seal tape. Reinstall and test. If it still leaks, the fitting itself may be cracked or corroded, and you will need a plumber to replace the entire drain assembly.
If the stopper leaks from the top—meaning water drains even when the stopper is closed—the stopper itself may be defective. Some new stoppers are damaged in shipping. Return it to the store and request a replacement. If the second stopper also leaks, the drain hole may be warped or the stopper may not be the right size for your tub. Measure the drain hole diameter (usually 1.5 to 2 inches) and confirm it matches the stopper specifications before you buy.
Tools and Materials You Will Need
| Item | Why You Need It | Cost Range |
|---|---|---|
| Adjustable wrench or slip-joint pliers | To grip and turn the nut holding the stopper | $5–$15 (if you don't have one) |
| Flashlight | To see under the sink clearly | $3–$10 (if you don't have one) |
| Screwdriver (Phillips head) | To remove the overflow plate on pop-up stoppers | $2–$8 (if you don't have one) |
| Penetrating oil (WD-40 or similar) | To loosen stuck nuts or corroded fittings | $4–$8 |
| Plumber's thread seal tape | To prevent leaks at the threads | $2–$4 |
| New stopper (lift-and-turn, push-pull, or pop-up) | The replacement part | $8–$25 |
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know what size stopper to buy?
Most bathtub drains are 1.5 inches in diameter, and most stoppers fit this standard size. Measure your drain hole with a ruler or tape measure before you shop. If your tub is very old or custom-built, the drain may be 2 inches. Bring this measurement to the store or check the product listing online; stoppers are labeled by drain size.
Can I replace a lift-and-turn stopper with a push-pull stopper?
Yes, as long as they are the same drain size. The mechanism is different, but they both screw into the same fitting. You will lose the twist function and gain a simpler push-pull action instead. This is actually a common upgrade because push-pull stoppers are less likely to jam.
What if I cannot reach the nut under the sink?
If your cabinet is too crowded or the nut is in an awkward spot, remove items from under the sink first. If the space is still too tight, you may need a basin wrench, which has a long handle and a small head designed for tight spaces. They cost $10 to $20 and are worth it if you plan to do plumbing work again.
Do I need to turn off the water before replacing the stopper?
No, the stopper does not control the water supply—it only blocks the drain. You can replace it with the water on. However, if you are worried about water dripping from the old stopper while you work, you can turn off the water at the shutoff valve under the sink or at the main shutoff for the house.
How long does a new stopper usually last?
A well-installed stopper typically lasts 5 to 10 years before it starts to stick or leak. Stoppers wear out faster in homes with hard water because mineral buildup corrodes the mechanism. If your stopper starts to stick or drain slowly after a few years, cleaning it with vinegar and a brush may help before you replace it.