What You Need to Know Before Starting

A dryer heating element is a coiled wire that heats the air inside your drum. When it burns out, your dryer runs but produces no heat—clothes come out damp and cold. Replacing it yourself takes about an hour and costs $30 to $100 for the part, depending on your dryer model. You do not need special tools beyond a screwdriver and a multimeter (a device that tests electrical connections, available at any hardware store for $15 to $30).

The job is straightforward because the heating element sits in an straightforward-to-reach location at the back or bottom of your dryer. The hardest part is usually removing the cabinet panels without breaking the clips that hold them. Before you start, unplug the dryer from the wall outlet—this is not optional. A dryer heating element carries enough electrical current to cause serious injury.

If your dryer is still under warranty, check the paperwork first. Some manufacturers will replace the element for free or at reduced cost. If you are renting, contact your landlord before opening the dryer—they may have a maintenance person handle it.

Key Takeaways

  • Always unplug the dryer before you open it, and wait at least five minutes for the heating element to cool completely.
  • The heating element is usually located in a metal housing at the back or bottom of the dryer, behind the drum.
  • You will need to remove the front or rear panel of the cabinet to access the element, which typically requires removing 4 to 8 screws.
  • Test the old element with a multimeter set to the ohms setting—a reading of zero or infinity means it has failed and needs replacement.
  • The new element slides into the same housing and connects with two wire terminals that push on or screw down, depending on your model.

Gather Your Tools and the Correct Replacement Part

Before you touch the dryer, collect everything you will need. You need a Phillips or flathead screwdriver (check your dryer manual to see which), a multimeter, a flashlight or headlamp, and a container to hold screws so you do not lose them. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp cabinet edges.

Next, find the correct heating element for your dryer. Look at the model number on a sticker inside the door frame or on the back of the dryer. Write it down. Go to the manufacturer's website (Whirlpool, LG, Samsung, GE, Maytag, and Electrolux are the most common) or call their parts line with the model number. They will tell you the exact part number and price. Do not guess—a heating element from a different model may not fit or may not work safely. Order the part online or pick it up at an appliance parts store.

Unplug the Dryer and Remove the Cabinet Panel

Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet. Wait at least five minutes. This allows any remaining electrical charge to drain from the heating element and the capacitor (a component that stores electricity). Do not skip this step.

Locate the cabinet panel you need to remove. Most dryers have the heating element accessible from the back, but some models require you to remove the front panel. Check your manual or search online for "[your model number] heating element replacement" to see which panel comes off. If you cannot find the manual, look at the back of the dryer first—if you see a large metal box with wires, that is the heating element housing, and you need to remove the rear panel.

Remove the screws holding the panel in place. They are usually around the edges. Keep the screws in a small container. Gently pull the panel away from the dryer. If it does not move, check for clips or additional screws you may have missed. Do not force it—you can crack the plastic or break the clips.

Test the Old Heating Element

Before you remove the old element, test it with a multimeter to confirm it has failed. Set the multimeter dial to the ohms setting (marked with the Greek letter omega, Ω). Touch one probe to each of the two terminals on the heating element. A working element will show a reading between 10 and 30 ohms. A failed element will show zero, infinity, or no reading at all.

If the multimeter shows a normal reading, the heating element is not the problem—your dryer may have a broken thermal fuse, a faulty thermostat, or a bad timer. Stop here and consult a repair manual or call a technician. If the reading is zero or infinity, the element has burned out and needs replacement.

Remove the Old Element and Install the New One

Locate the two wire terminals connected to the heating element. They may be push-on connectors (they slide off) or screw terminals (they have a small screw you turn counterclockwise). If they are push-on, gently wiggle and pull them straight off. If they are screw terminals, use your screwdriver to loosen the screw, then slide the wire out. Take a photo with your phone before you disconnect anything—this helps you remember which wire goes where.

Next, remove the bolt or clip holding the heating element in its metal housing. Most elements are held by a single bolt on the front or back of the housing. Remove it and slide the old element out. It may be stiff—do not force it, but do not be afraid to pull firmly. The element is designed to come out.

Slide the new heating element into the housing, making sure it sits all the way in. The terminals should face the same direction as the old element's terminals did. Reinstall the bolt or clip. Then reconnect the wires to the terminals. If they are push-on connectors, push them straight on until they click or sit snugly. If they are screw terminals, insert the wire and tighten the screw by turning clockwise. Do not overtighten—you only need enough pressure to hold the wire securely.

Reassemble the Dryer and Test It

Carefully slide the cabinet panel back into place, making sure any clips align with their slots. Reinstall all the screws you removed. Tighten them firmly but do not strip them by turning too hard. Plug the dryer back into the outlet.

Run the dryer on a high-heat setting for 10 to 15 minutes with no clothes inside. Listen for the heating element to turn on—you may hear a faint hum or buzzing sound. Feel the outside of the dryer after a few minutes; it should be warm to the touch. If the dryer is cold and silent, unplug it when ready and check your wire connections. Make sure both terminals are seated firmly.

If the dryer heats up normally, run a full cycle with a damp towel to confirm everything works. The towel should come out dry and warm. If it does, the job is complete. If the dryer still does not heat, the problem may be elsewhere in the electrical circuit—stop and consult a repair manual or technician.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common mistake is forgetting to unplug the dryer or not waiting long enough for it to discharge. This can cause a serious electrical shock. The second most common mistake is installing the element backwards or upside down. The element should sit in the housing the same way the old one did. If the terminals do not line up, stop and check the orientation.

Another frequent error is reconnecting the wires to the wrong terminals. This usually causes the dryer not to heat or to overheat and shut off. If you are unsure, take a photo of the old element before you remove it, or consult your manual for a wiring diagram. Finally, do not overtighten the screw terminals—you can strip the threads and create a loose connection that causes arcing and fire risk.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a dryer heating element last?

Most heating elements last 5 to 10 years with normal use. They fail faster if you run the dryer frequently, do not clean the lint trap, or use high heat constantly. A clogged lint trap forces the element to work harder and burn out sooner.

Can I replace the heating element without removing the cabinet panel?

No. The element sits inside a metal housing that is only accessible from inside the dryer cabinet. You must remove at least one panel to reach it. Trying to access it from the outside risks damaging the dryer's exterior and the element itself.

What if the heating element looks fine but the dryer still does not heat?

Several other parts can cause a dryer not to heat: the thermal fuse (a safety device that cuts power if the dryer overheats), the thermostat, the timer, or the high-limit switch. If your multimeter test shows the element is working, one of these other components has likely failed. Consult your manual or contact a repair technician.

Do I need a new thermal fuse when I replace the heating element?

Not necessarily. The thermal fuse only needs replacement if it has blown, which you can test with a multimeter. However, if your dryer has been running hot or shutting off unexpectedly, the fuse may have blown for a reason—check that the lint trap and vent are clean before you run the dryer again.

Is it safe to use the dryer right after I install the new element?

Yes, once you have reassembled the dryer and plugged it in. Run it empty on high heat for 10 to 15 minutes first to make sure everything works and to burn off any dust or manufacturing residue on the new element. Then use it normally.