Turn off the power before you touch anything

The first step is to cut power to the light. Flip the wall switch to off. If the bulb is in a ceiling fixture or anywhere you cannot easily reach, turn off the circuit breaker that controls that room instead — this is safer than relying on a wall switch alone, because someone else might flip it back on while you are working.

Wait a few minutes before touching the bulb. Even a bulb that has been off for a moment can be hot enough to burn your fingers. Incandescent and halogen bulbs stay hot longer than LED or CFL bulbs, but all of them hold heat. If you are not sure whether it is cool, touch the metal base of the fixture first — if that is cool, the bulb should be safe to handle.

Key Takeaways

  • Always turn off the light switch or circuit breaker before removing a bulb, and wait a few minutes for it to cool.
  • Identify the type of base your bulb has — the most common are screw-in (E26 or E27) and bayonet (twist-and-lock) — because you need to match it when you buy a replacement.
  • Screw-in bulbs turn counterclockwise to remove; bayonet bulbs push in slightly and twist counterclockwise.
  • Check the wattage and voltage printed on the fixture or bulb before you install a new one, because using the wrong wattage can damage the fixture or create a fire hazard.
  • LED bulbs work in almost any fixture, cost less to run, and last much longer than incandescent bulbs, though they cost more upfront.

Identify your bulb type by looking at the base

The base of the bulb — the part that goes into the fixture — comes in a few standard types. The most common is the screw base, which looks like a threaded screw and twists in and out like a lightbulb you have probably seen before. The size is marked on the bulb or fixture as E26 (standard US size) or E27 (standard European size). These are nearly identical and work in most fixtures.

The second common type is the bayonet base, which has two small pins or a single notch instead of threads. You push it straight in and twist it counterclockwise to lock it in place. Bayonet bulbs are common in older homes, car headlights, and some decorative fixtures.

Less common types include GU10 (two small pins side by side, used in recessed ceiling lights and spotlights), MR16 (a small reflector bulb with two pins), and pin-base bulbs like G9 or G4 (used in under-cabinet lights and chandeliers). If you are not sure which type you have, take a photo of the base and bring it to a hardware store, or look at the fixture itself — it usually says the base type on a label inside.

Remove the old bulb by turning it counterclockwise

For a screw-base bulb, grip it gently but firmly and turn it counterclockwise — the same direction you would turn a regular screw to loosen it. Do not grip too hard, because the glass can break. Turn slowly until the bulb comes free from the socket. If the bulb is stuck, try wrapping a rubber band around the base for better grip, or use a dry cloth to get traction without crushing the glass.

For a bayonet-base bulb, push it straight in slightly — about half an inch — and turn it counterclockwise. You will feel it unlock. Once it is loose, pull it straight out. Do not twist too hard or you may break the pins inside the socket.

If a bulb breaks inside the fixture and you cannot remove it, turn off the power at the breaker and leave it off. Do not try to force it out. You may need to call an electrician or replace the fixture itself if the socket is damaged.

Check the wattage and voltage before installing the new bulb

Look at the fixture itself — usually on a label inside the fixture or printed on the metal rim. You will see a number like "60W" or "100W". This is the maximum wattage the fixture is designed to handle. Never install a bulb with a higher wattage, because it can overheat the fixture, melt the wiring, or start a fire.

The voltage is usually 120V in the United States. Check the label to be sure. If you install a bulb rated for a different voltage, it will not work correctly and may burn out when ready or damage the fixture.

If you cannot find a label, the safest choice is to use an LED bulb rated for the same wattage as the old bulb you removed. LED bulbs use much less power than incandescent bulbs, so a 9W LED bulb produces about the same light as a 60W incandescent bulb. This means you can almost always use an LED bulb in any fixture, even if the fixture label says 60W or higher.

Install the new bulb by reversing the removal steps

For a screw-base bulb, align it with the socket and turn it clockwise — the same direction you would tighten a screw. Turn slowly and steadily until it stops. You should feel slight resistance, but do not force it. The bulb should sit flush in the socket with no gaps. If it does not, you may have the wrong size base, or the socket may be damaged.

For a bayonet-base bulb, align the pins with the slots in the socket and push it straight in. Turn it clockwise until you feel it lock. It should not move side to side once it is locked.

Once the bulb is installed, turn the power back on at the switch or breaker. The bulb should light when ready. If it does not, turn the power off again, wait a minute, and check that the bulb is seated all the way in the socket. If it still does not work, the bulb may be defective, or the socket may be damaged.

Choose LED bulbs to save money and reduce replacements

LED bulbs cost more upfront than incandescent bulbs — usually two to five times as much — but they use about 75 percent less electricity and last 15 to 25 times longer. An LED bulb rated for 25,000 hours will run for about 11 years if you use it three hours a day. An incandescent bulb rated for 1,000 hours will burn out in less than a year with the same use.

LED bulbs also run much cooler, which means they are safer in enclosed fixtures and around flammable materials. They work in almost any fixture designed for incandescent bulbs, as long as you match the base type and wattage rating.

The main drawback is that some older dimmer switches do not work well with LED bulbs — the light may flicker or not dim smoothly. If you have a dimmer, look for an LED bulb labeled "dimmable" to avoid this problem. CFL bulbs (compact fluorescent) are another option, but they take a moment to reach full brightness and contain a small amount of mercury, so they require careful disposal if they break.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a higher wattage bulb if I want more light?

No. The wattage limit on the fixture is a safety limit, not a suggestion. A bulb with too high a wattage will overheat the fixture and can damage the wiring or start a fire. If you want more light, use an LED bulb instead — a 15W LED produces much more light than a 60W incandescent and uses less power.

What should I do if the bulb is stuck and will not turn?

Turn off the power at the breaker and wait 10 minutes for the bulb to cool completely. Wrap a dry cloth or rubber band around the base for grip and try again, turning slowly and gently. If it still will not budge, stop — forcing it may break the glass or damage the socket. Leave it off and contact an electrician.

Do I need to match the exact brand of bulb?

No. Any bulb with the correct base type and wattage rating will work, regardless of brand. You can mix brands in the same fixture. LED bulbs from different makers may have slightly different color temperatures — some are warmer (more yellow) and some are cooler (more white) — so if you want consistent color, buy the same brand for all the bulbs in a room.

Why does my new bulb flicker or dim on its own?

Flickering usually means the bulb is not seated all the way in the socket. Turn off the power, wait a minute, and push the bulb in firmly until it stops. If it still flickers, the socket may be loose or damaged. If you have a dimmer switch, the bulb may not be compatible — look for a bulb labeled "dimmable" to fix this.

Is it safe to replace a bulb while the light is on?

No. Always turn off the switch or breaker before touching a bulb. Even if the bulb is not lit, it can be hot enough to burn you. Turning off the power also protects you from electrical shock if you accidentally touch the socket.