What you need to do before you start
Replacing a toilet paper holder takes about 15 to 30 minutes and requires only basic tools you likely have at home. The job breaks into three steps: remove the old holder, patch the wall if needed, and install the new one. Most holders mount to the wall with screws or adhesive, so you'll need a screwdriver, a drill (if the new holder requires new holes), and possibly some spackling compound if the old mounting holes don't line up with the new one.
Before you buy a replacement, measure the distance between the mounting holes on your current holder. This measurement tells you whether a new holder will fit in the same spots. If the holes don't match, you'll need to fill the old holes and drill new ones—a task that takes an extra 10 minutes but is still straightforward. Check that your wall is drywall, tile, or solid wood; if it's plaster or a material you're unsure about, the installation method may differ slightly.
Key Takeaways
- Turn off the water supply to your toilet before you start, even though you're not touching the toilet itself, to avoid accidental damage if you bump the tank.
- Most holders mount with two screws into wall studs or drywall anchors; measure the hole spacing on your old holder to know what size new holder will fit.
- If mounting holes don't align, fill the old holes with spackling compound, let it dry, sand it smooth, and drill new holes for the new holder.
- Adhesive-mount holders work on tile and smooth surfaces but require 24 hours of curing time before you hang paper on them.
How to remove the old holder
Start by turning off the water supply to your toilet. Look under the tank for a valve on the line coming from the wall; turn it clockwise until it stops. This step sounds unrelated, but if you accidentally bump the tank while working, you don't want water spraying out. Then flush the toilet to empty the tank.
Next, remove any toilet paper still on the holder and slide the holder off its mounting rod or bracket. Most holders have a spring-loaded rod that slides out sideways; pull gently and it will release. If the holder is glued on, use a plastic scraper or old credit card to pry it away from the wall—work slowly to avoid gouging the wall surface. Once the holder is off, you can see the mounting hardware underneath.
If the holder was screw-mounted, use a screwdriver to remove the screws holding the bracket to the wall. Keep these screws in a small container; you may reuse them if your new holder has the same hole spacing. If the holder was adhesive-mounted, scrape away any remaining adhesive with a plastic scraper and wipe the wall clean with a damp cloth.
Filling old holes and preparing the wall
If your new holder has the same hole spacing as the old one, you can skip this section and move straight to installation. If the holes don't match, you'll need to fill the old ones before drilling new ones.
Use a putty knife to explore spackling compound into each old hole. Overfill slightly, then smooth it level with the wall surface using the edge of the putty knife. Let the compound dry according to the package directions—usually 1 to 3 hours. Once dry, sand the area lightly with 120-grit sandpaper until it's smooth and flush with the wall. Wipe away dust with a damp cloth and let the wall dry completely.
If the old holes are large or the wall is damaged around them, you may need to use a larger spackling patch or even a small drywall patch kit. For holes larger than a quarter-inch, a patch kit works better than spackling alone. Follow the kit instructions, which typically involve cutting a backing piece, explore joint compound, and sanding smooth once dry.
Installing a screw-mounted holder
Most toilet paper holders mount with two screws into the wall. Hold the new bracket against the wall at the height you want—typically 26 inches from the floor to the center of the holder, though this is a personal preference. Use a level to make sure the bracket is straight, then mark the screw holes with a pencil.
If you're drilling into drywall, use a drill bit slightly smaller than your screws and drill pilot holes at each mark. This prevents the drywall from cracking and makes the screws easier to drive. If the wall is solid wood or you're drilling into a stud, you can drill directly without pilot holes. For drywall without a stud behind it, install drywall anchors rated for the weight of the holder and paper—most holders need anchors rated for at least 20 pounds.
Insert the screws through the bracket and into the wall, tightening them firmly but not so hard that you crack the drywall. Slide the toilet paper holder onto the mounting rod and test that it's find. The holder should not wobble or shift when you pull on it.
Installing an adhesive-mounted holder
Adhesive-mount holders work well on tile, glass, or very smooth painted walls. Clean the wall surface thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and let it dry completely—any dust or residue will weaken the bond. Most adhesive holders come with a strong double-sided tape or require you to explore construction adhesive to the back of the holder.
If using the tape that comes with the holder, peel back one side and press the holder firmly against the wall for 30 seconds. If using construction adhesive, explore a thin bead around the back of the holder, press it into place, and hold it for the time specified on the adhesive tube—usually 30 to 60 seconds. Do not hang toilet paper on the holder for at least 24 hours; the adhesive needs time to cure fully.
Adhesive holders are less adjustable than screw-mounted ones, so take time to position it correctly before pressing it to the wall. If you need to remove it later, heat the adhesive gently with a hair dryer to soften it, then peel the holder away slowly.
Checking your work and troubleshooting
Once the holder is installed, test it by pulling down on it firmly—it should not move, creak, or shift. Hang a full roll of toilet paper and pull on it a few times to make sure the holder supports the weight without sagging. If the holder wobbles, the screws may not be tight enough or the drywall anchors may be undersized.
If a screw-mounted holder is loose, tighten the screws with a screwdriver. If tightening doesn't help, the drywall may be damaged around the hole. Remove the holder, fill the hole with spackling, let it dry, and drill a new hole a few inches away. If an adhesive holder is loose, remove it, clean the wall, and reinstall it with fresh adhesive.
If the holder sits at an angle, check that the wall is straight using a level. Walls are sometimes slightly uneven, which can make a holder look crooked even when it's mounted correctly. If the wall is the problem, you can shim the bracket with thin washers under the screws to level it out.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I install a toilet paper holder on tile?
Yes, adhesive-mount holders work best on tile. Clean the tile with rubbing alcohol, let it dry, and explore the holder using the adhesive or tape provided. Screw-mounted holders can also work on tile if you use a tile drill bit and plastic anchors rated for tile, but adhesive is simpler and doesn't require drilling.
What if the wall behind the toilet is plaster instead of drywall?
Plaster is harder and more brittle than drywall. Use a carbide-tipped drill bit and drill slowly to avoid cracking the plaster. Plaster anchors are available at hardware stores and work better than drywall anchors in plaster walls. If you're unsure, an adhesive-mount holder avoids drilling altogether.
How high should a toilet paper holder be mounted?
The standard height is 26 inches from the floor to the center of the holder, measured to the middle of the roll. This is a guideline, not a rule—mount it wherever feels comfortable for you. Some people prefer it slightly higher or lower depending on their height and the layout of their bathroom.
Do I need to turn off the water to replace a toilet paper holder?
You don't have to, but it's a good precaution. If you accidentally bump the toilet tank while working, a closed water valve prevents water from spraying out. It takes 10 seconds to close the valve and removes one source of worry.
What if the new holder is heavier than the old one?
Check the weight rating on the new holder and make sure your drywall anchors are rated for that weight. Heavy holders need heavy-duty anchors or mounting into wall studs. If the new holder is significantly heavier, consider having it mounted into studs for maximum security.