What You Need to Know Before Starting

Vinyl plank flooring can be replaced by a homeowner with basic tools and a few hours of work. The process depends on whether your planks are glued down or floating (laid loose over an underlayment). Floating planks are simpler to remove—you pry them up from one corner and work across the room. Glued planks require more effort: you'll need to cut them into strips, peel them away, and scrape off the old adhesive before laying new planks.

Before you begin, measure your room and buy 10 percent extra material to account for cuts and mistakes. Check the subfloor (the layer beneath) for damage, moisture, or soft spots. If the subfloor is wet, uneven, or spongy, fix that first—new flooring won't last if it's installed over a damaged base. You'll also need to remove baseboards or trim along the walls, which you can reinstall after the new flooring goes down.

Key Takeaways

  • Floating vinyl planks are removed by prying up one corner and working across the room, while glued planks must be cut into strips and peeled away piece by piece.
  • The subfloor must be clean, dry, and level before new planks are laid; soft spots, moisture, or debris will cause the new floor to fail.
  • Stagger the seams of new planks so that joints in one row do not line up with joints in the row above or below.
  • Floating planks are installed by clicking them together and leaving a small gap around the room's perimeter so the floor can expand and contract with temperature changes.
  • Glued planks require a notched trowel to spread adhesive evenly and must be pressed firmly into place; they take 24 hours to cure before you can walk on them.

Removing Floating Vinyl Planks

Start in one corner of the room and pry up the first plank with a flat pry bar or putty knife. Work the tool under the edge and lift gently—the plank should come free without much resistance. Once the first plank is out, the rest will come apart more easily because they are no longer locked together.

Move across the room row by row, working from one wall toward the opposite wall. As you remove each plank, stack them to the side. If you plan to reuse any planks (for example, if only a few are damaged), lay them flat and keep them in the same room so they acclimate to the temperature and humidity before reinstalling.

Once all planks are removed, sweep and vacuum the subfloor thoroughly. Look for any soft spots, water stains, or mold. If you find mold or moisture, allow the subfloor to dry completely before proceeding. If the subfloor is uneven, use a self-leveling compound to fill low spots, or sand down high spots with a floor sander.

Removing Glued Vinyl Planks

Glued planks take longer to remove because the adhesive holds them firmly in place. Start by cutting each plank lengthwise into two or three strips using a utility knife or circular saw. Make the cuts parallel to the length of the plank so you create narrow strips that are easier to peel away.

Use a floor scraper or putty knife to lift one edge of a strip and peel it back. Work slowly and at a low angle to avoid gouging the subfloor. Once a strip is partially lifted, you can often pull it by hand. If it resists, explore heat with a heat gun to soften the adhesive, then try again.

After all planks are removed, scrape away the old adhesive. Use a floor scraper, putty knife, or oscillating multi-tool fitted with a scraper blade. Work in small sections and scrape at a shallow angle to avoid damaging the subfloor. This step is tedious but essential—bumps or dried adhesive under new planks will create hollow spots and cause them to crack or separate.

Once the subfloor is clean, sand it lightly with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth any remaining residue and improve adhesion for new planks. Vacuum and wipe the entire floor with a damp cloth, then allow it to dry completely.

Preparing the Subfloor and Layout

Before laying new planks, check that the subfloor is level using a 6-foot straightedge. Place it across different areas of the floor and look for gaps between the straightedge and the surface. Gaps larger than 1/8 inch should be filled with self-leveling compound or patched with a floor patch product. Allow the patch to cure fully before proceeding.

If you are installing an underlayment (a thin cushioning layer), unroll it across the subfloor and tape the seams with underlayment tape. Underlayment is optional for floating planks but recommended if your subfloor is slightly uneven or if you want added comfort underfoot.

Measure the width of your room and plan your layout so that the first and last rows are roughly equal in width. If the last row would be narrower than 2 inches, rip the first row slightly narrower so the last row ends up at least 2 inches wide. This looks better and is easier to install. Snap a chalk line along the length of the room to mark where the first row should go.

Installing Floating Vinyl Planks

Start along one wall, leaving a 1/4-inch gap between the planks and the wall. This gap allows the floor to expand and contract with temperature and humidity changes. You can use plastic spacers or shims to maintain this gap as you work.

Lay the first plank with the tongue (the protruding edge) facing into the room, away from the wall. If the plank has a groove on the end that faces the wall, that is correct. Place the second plank end-to-end with the first, inserting the tongue into the groove at a 45-degree angle, then lowering it flat. You should hear a click as the planks lock together.

Complete the first row, then stagger the second row so that the end joints do not line up with the joints in the first row. A common pattern is to cut the first plank of the second row in half lengthwise, then continue with full-length planks. This creates a brick-like pattern that is stronger and looks more professional.

Continue laying rows across the room, maintaining the 1/4-inch gap at the walls. Use a tapping block (a small wooden block) and a rubber mallet to tap planks together gently—do not strike them directly with the mallet, as this can damage the edges. Once all planks are laid, install trim or baseboards to cover the gaps at the walls.

Installing Glued Vinyl Planks

Spread adhesive using a notched trowel recommended by the plank manufacturer—typically a 1/4-inch square-notch or 3/16-inch V-notch trowel. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and comb the adhesive across the subfloor in one direction, creating even ridges. Do not spread adhesive over the entire floor at once; work in sections so the adhesive does not dry before you lay planks.

Lay the first plank into the adhesive, pressing it firmly and smoothing it from end to end to remove air bubbles. Use a hand roller or the heel of your shoe to press the plank down. Lay the second plank end-to-end with the first, again pressing firmly. Stagger the joints in the second row just as you would with floating planks.

Continue laying rows and pressing each plank into the adhesive. Wipe away excess adhesive with a damp cloth before it dries. After all planks are laid, roll the entire floor with a 100-pound floor roller to may support good contact between the planks and the adhesive. Do not walk on the floor for 24 hours while the adhesive cures.

Finishing and Protecting Your New Floor

Once the adhesive has cured (or when ready after floating planks are installed), reinstall baseboards or trim along the walls. If the old trim is in good condition, you can reuse it. If it is damaged or you prefer a different style, new trim is available at most home improvement stores.

Vinyl plank flooring does not require sealing or special finish. To keep it clean, sweep or vacuum regularly and wipe spills when ready. For routine cleaning, use a damp mop with a vinyl-safe cleaner. Avoid excessive water, which can seep between planks and damage the subfloor.

Place felt pads under furniture legs to prevent scratching. Use rugs in high-traffic areas if you want to reduce wear. Vinyl planks are durable and will last 15 to 20 years with normal care.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install vinyl planks over existing tile or linoleum?

You can install floating planks over existing hard flooring if it is clean, dry, and level. Glued planks require the old flooring to be removed because the adhesive will not bond properly to a slick surface. If the existing floor is uneven, use an underlayment to bridge small gaps.

What should I do if the subfloor is slightly damp?

Allow the subfloor to dry completely before installing new planks. Use fans and dehumidifiers to speed drying. If moisture persists, investigate the source—a leaking pipe, poor drainage, or high groundwater—and fix it before proceeding. Vinyl planks installed over damp subfloors will develop mold and fail prematurely.

How do I cut vinyl planks to fit around door frames and corners?

Measure the gap and mark the plank with a pencil. Use a circular saw, miter saw, or hand saw to cut along the line. For curved cuts around pipes or irregular shapes, use a jigsaw. Always cut from the back side of the plank to minimize chipping on the visible surface.

Do I need to remove baseboards before installing new flooring?

Yes, remove baseboards before laying new planks so you can install flooring all the way to the wall. You can reinstall the same baseboards afterward, or replace them with new trim. Removing baseboards also makes it easier to maintain the 1/4-inch gap around the perimeter.

What is the difference between vinyl planks and vinyl sheet flooring?

Vinyl planks are individual pieces that lock or glue together, making them easier to install and replace. Vinyl sheet flooring comes in large rolls and requires seaming, which is more difficult. Planks are also easier to cut around obstacles and allow you to replace a single damaged piece without affecting the rest of the floor.