Washer bearings wear out and need replacement when the drum no longer spins freely
Washer bearings are the metal or ceramic parts that let the drum rotate smoothly inside the tub. When they wear down — usually after five to ten years of use — the drum starts to make grinding, squealing, or rumbling sounds, and the drum may not spin at all. Replacing them means taking apart the washer, removing the old bearings, and installing new ones in their place.
The job takes between two and four hours for someone with basic mechanical skill and the right tools. You will need a socket set, a drum removal tool (specific to your washer model), new bearings, a seal kit, and sometimes a pulley tool. The cost of parts runs between $150 and $400 depending on the washer brand and whether you replace the seal at the same time.
This is not a job for someone who has never opened an appliance. If you are not comfortable working with small metal parts and reassembling them in the correct order, a repair technician will charge $300 to $600 in labor plus parts. That said, the repair is straightforward enough that many people with some mechanical experience do it themselves and save the labor cost.
Key Takeaways
- Washer bearings fail when the drum makes grinding or squealing sounds and spins slowly or not at all.
- You will need a model-specific drum removal tool, new bearings, a seal kit, and basic hand tools to do the job yourself.
- The repair takes two to four hours and costs $150 to $400 in parts if you do the work yourself, or $300 to $600 in labor if you hire a technician.
- Before you start, unplug the washer, turn off the water supply, and take photos of each step so you can reassemble it correctly.
- If your washer is still under warranty, contact the manufacturer before opening it — repair work voids coverage on some models.
Identify whether the bearings are actually worn
A loud washer does not always mean the bearings have failed. Before you buy parts and start disassembling, listen to the sound and watch what the drum does. Grinding or squealing that happens during the spin cycle usually points to worn bearings. A thumping sound during the wash cycle often means something is stuck between the drum and the tub — a coin, a wire from an underwire bra, or a piece of plastic.
Spin the drum by hand when the washer is unplugged and empty. It should turn freely with no resistance and no grinding noise. If it spins smoothly and quietly, the bearings are probably fine. If it grinds, squeals, or feels rough, the bearings are worn. If the drum does not spin at all, the bearing may be seized, or the drum may be stuck for another reason — check whether something is lodged between the drum and tub first.
Look up your washer's model number on the manufacturer's website or in the manual. Some washers have sealed bearing assemblies that cannot be replaced separately; you have to replace the entire drum or tub. Others have individual bearings that you can swap out. Knowing which type you have before you start saves you time and money.
Gather the tools and parts you will need
The specific tools depend on your washer brand and model. Front-load washers and top-load washers come apart differently, and bearing removal tools are not universal. Start by finding your model number — it is usually on a sticker inside the door frame or on the back of the machine — and searching online for a repair manual or parts diagram for that exact model.
You will need: a socket set (usually 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch drive), an adjustable wrench, a screwdriver set (Phillips and flathead), a drum removal tool or bearing puller (model-specific), new bearings (the exact size and type for your washer), a seal kit (to replace the rubber seal around the bearing), and penetrating oil like WD-40 or PB Blaster in case bolts are stuck. A camera or phone to photograph each step as you go is essential — you will forget how things fit back together otherwise.
Order the bearing kit and seal kit from the washer manufacturer or from an appliance parts supplier. Do not buy generic bearings; they must match your washer's specifications exactly. The parts usually cost $80 to $200 for the bearings and seal kit combined, depending on the brand.
Unplug the washer and shut off the water
Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet. Do not rely on turning it off — you need the power disconnected completely so you cannot accidentally start it while you are working inside. If the outlet is behind the washer, pull the machine away from the wall first.
Turn off the hot and cold water supply valves behind the washer. If you cannot reach them or they are stuck, turn off the main water supply to the house. Open the washer door and let any water inside drain out. If water does not drain, the pump may be blocked — check the drain filter or pump intake before you proceed.
Let the washer sit for at least 30 minutes after unplugging it. Some washers have capacitors that hold an electrical charge even when unplugged, and touching them can cause injury. Waiting gives the charge time to dissipate.
Remove the front or top panel to access the drum
The steps differ between front-load and top-load washers. For a front-load washer, you usually remove the bottom front panel first by unbolting it or unclipping it. Then you remove the rubber door seal by prying it out of its groove with a flathead screwdriver. Next, remove the metal ring that holds the seal in place. After that, you can unbolt the tub from the frame and lift it out.
For a top-load washer, you typically remove the top panel by unbolting it or unclipping the corners, then remove the agitator by unbolting it from the center of the drum. The drum itself may be held in by a bolt at the center or by a bearing assembly at the bottom. Consult your model's repair manual for the exact sequence — the order matters because some bolts support the weight of other parts.
Take a photo after you remove each panel or bolt. Label the bolts by size and location so you know which ones go back where. Bolts that look the same often have different lengths, and putting a short bolt where a long one belongs can strip threads or cause the machine to vibrate.
Remove the old bearings and install the new ones
Once the drum is accessible, you will see the bearing assembly. It is usually a metal ring or cartridge pressed onto the shaft or into a bore in the tub. Use the drum removal tool or bearing puller to press or pull the old bearing out. This requires steady pressure and sometimes a hammer — do not rush it or you may damage the shaft.
If the bearing is stuck, spray penetrating oil around the edge and wait 15 to 30 minutes. Then try again. Do not use excessive force; if it will not budge after several attempts, you may need a different tool or professional help.
Clean the shaft or bore where the bearing sits with a cloth and rubbing alcohol. Any dirt or corrosion will prevent the new bearing from seating properly. Slide or press the new bearing onto the shaft using the same tool you used to remove the old one. It should fit snugly with no wobble. Replace the seal at the same time — old seals often leak after the bearing is replaced, and you have the machine apart anyway.
Reassemble the washer in reverse order
Put the drum back into the tub and bolt it in place. Reinstall the tub into the frame and bolt it. Replace the metal seal ring and rubber door seal (for front-loaders) or the agitator and top panel (for top-loaders). Tighten all bolts firmly but do not over-tighten — you can strip threads or crack plastic parts.
Refer to the photos you took during disassembly. If you skipped taking photos, look up the reassembly sequence in your model's repair manual. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly, but the order matters — some parts have to go on before others or the machine will not close properly.
Once everything is back together, plug the washer in and turn the water supply back on. Run a test cycle on hot water with no clothes inside. Listen for grinding or squealing. The drum should spin smoothly and quietly. If it still makes noise, the new bearing may not be seated correctly, or another part may be damaged — stop and check your work.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my washer has sealed bearings or replaceable ones?
Look up your model number on the manufacturer's website or in the manual. The parts diagram will show whether the bearing is a separate component or part of a sealed drum assembly. If it is sealed, you cannot replace just the bearing — you have to replace the entire drum or tub, which costs more.
Can I replace the bearings without removing the entire drum?
Not usually. The bearing is pressed onto the shaft or into the tub, and you need access to it from both sides to remove and install it. On most washers, that means taking the drum out. Some models have a removable bearing cartridge that you can access from the back, but this is rare.
What if I break something while taking the washer apart?
Plastic clips and tabs break easily, especially on older machines. If you break a clip that holds a panel on, you can often repair it with epoxy or a plastic weld, or order a replacement panel. If you crack the tub itself, it usually cannot be repaired and you will need a new tub — which costs $200 to $400. Work slowly and do not force anything.
Do I have to replace the seal when I replace the bearings?
The seal is not strictly necessary, but it is strongly recommended. The seal keeps water out of the bearing cavity, and an old seal often leaks after you disturb it during bearing replacement. A new seal costs $20 to $50 and takes five minutes to install while you have the machine apart. Replacing it later means taking the machine apart again.
How long do new bearings last?
New bearings typically last five to ten years, depending on how often you use the washer and the water quality in your area. Hard water and mineral buildup can shorten bearing life. Regular maintenance — cleaning the drain filter and not overloading the machine — helps them last longer.