You can replace an ice maker yourself in most refrigerators, and it usually takes 15 to 30 minutes
Most ice maker replacements are straightforward: turn off the water supply, unplug the refrigerator, remove the old unit by unbolting it or sliding it out, and install the new one by reversing those steps. The hardest part is usually reaching the unit, which sits in the freezer compartment on the back wall or side wall. You do not need a technician for this job unless your refrigerator model has the ice maker buried under panels or your water line is frozen or kinked.
The cost of a replacement ice maker ranges from $100 to $400 depending on the brand and model. OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts cost more but fit perfectly; aftermarket parts cost less and work in most cases, though fit can be slightly loose. Before you buy, check your refrigerator's model number — it is usually on a sticker inside the fridge or freezer — and search for that number plus "ice maker" to find the right part.
Key Takeaways
- Turn off the water supply valve behind or under the refrigerator before you disconnect anything, or you risk water damage.
- The ice maker bolts or clips to the freezer wall; take a photo of the old unit before removal so you know where each wire and bolt goes.
- OEM parts fit your exact model but cost $200 to $400; aftermarket parts cost $100 to $200 and work in most refrigerators but may fit loosely.
- After installation, flush the water line by running 5 to 10 cycles and discarding the ice, because air in the line makes the first batches cloudy or hollow.
Locate the water shut-off valve before you start
The water supply line runs from your home's water system to the back or bottom of the refrigerator. Behind or underneath the fridge, you will see a small valve — usually a round knob or a lever — on the copper or plastic line. Turn it clockwise (or flip the lever perpendicular to the line) to stop water flow. If you cannot find it, the valve may be in a cabinet below the fridge, in a basement, or in a utility closet where your main water lines run.
Once the valve is off, unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet. This protects you from electrical shock and prevents the compressor from running while you work. Leave the fridge unplugged for at least five minutes so any residual power drains from the circuits.
Remove the old ice maker and disconnect the water line
Open the freezer and locate the ice maker. In most refrigerators it sits on the back wall, mounted with two or four bolts or clips. Use a socket wrench or Phillips screwdriver to remove the fasteners — take a photo first so you remember the layout. Gently pull the unit toward you to expose the wires and water line on the back.
You will see a wire harness (usually a plastic connector with two or three wires) plugged into the back of the ice maker. Squeeze or press the clip on the connector and pull it straight out. Next, locate the water line — a thin copper or plastic tube — and use a wrench to loosen the compression fitting where it connects to the ice maker. Have a small bowl or towel ready; a little water may drip out. Once the fitting is loose, pull the line away and set the old ice maker aside.
Install the new ice maker and reconnect the water line
Slide the new ice maker into the same position as the old one, aligning the bolt holes or clip slots. Insert the bolts or clips and tighten them by hand first, then use your wrench or screwdriver to snug them down — do not over-tighten, or you may crack the plastic housing. The unit should sit flush against the wall with no gaps.
Reconnect the water line by sliding the copper or plastic tube onto the fitting on the back of the new ice maker. Use your wrench to tighten the compression fitting — hand-tight plus a quarter turn is usually enough. If the line does not slide on easily, the fitting may be the wrong size; stop and check that you have the correct replacement part for your model. Finally, plug the wire harness back into the connector on the ice maker until you hear or feel it click.
Turn the water back on and test the ice maker
Turn the water shut-off valve counterclockwise (or flip the lever parallel to the line) to restore water flow. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall outlet. You should hear the ice maker fill with water within a few seconds — a brief humming or clicking sound. If you hear nothing, check that the wire harness is fully seated and that the water valve is fully open.
Let the ice maker run through 5 to 10 cycles and throw away the ice from each cycle. The first batches will often be cloudy, hollow, or misshapen because air trapped in the water line needs to be pushed out. After 10 cycles, the ice should be clear and solid. If the ice maker does not fill, the water line may be kinked, the fitting may be loose, or the valve may not be opening — check each one in that order.
Troubleshoot if the ice maker does not work after installation
If the ice maker fills but does not freeze, the freezer temperature may be too warm — it should be at 0°F or below. Check the thermostat dial inside the freezer and turn it to a colder setting if needed. Wait 24 hours for the freezer to reach the new temperature, then check the ice again.
If the ice maker does not fill at all, first confirm the water valve is fully open by turning it all the way counterclockwise. Next, check the water line for kinks or pinches where it runs behind the refrigerator — straighten any bends. If the line is clear and the valve is open, the compression fitting may be loose; use your wrench to tighten it another quarter turn. If none of these steps work, the water inlet valve inside the refrigerator may be faulty, and you will need a technician to replace it.
Choose between OEM and aftermarket ice makers
OEM parts are made by the refrigerator manufacturer — Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, and so on — and carry the brand name and model number. They cost $200 to $400 but fit your exact refrigerator with no gaps or alignment issues. Aftermarket parts are made by third-party companies like Edgewater Parts or EvaporatorShop and cost $100 to $200. They work in most refrigerators but may have slightly loose clips or require small adjustments to fit snugly.
For a refrigerator you plan to keep for many years, an OEM part is worth the extra cost because the fit is perfect and the warranty is longer. For a refrigerator you may replace soon, an aftermarket part saves money and works just as well. Either way, check the product listing to confirm it matches your model number before you buy.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to turn off the refrigerator before replacing the ice maker?
Yes. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet before you disconnect any wires or water lines. This prevents electrical shock and stops the compressor from running while you work. Leave it unplugged for at least five minutes to allow residual power to drain.
What if water leaks from the connection after I install the new ice maker?
The compression fitting is probably loose. Use your wrench to tighten it another quarter turn. If it still leaks, turn off the water valve, disconnect the line, and check that the fitting threads are clean and not damaged. Reconnect and tighten again. If the leak continues, the fitting may be cracked and you may need a new water line.
How long does it take for the ice maker to start making ice?
After you turn the water back on and plug in the refrigerator, the ice maker should fill within a few seconds. The first batch of ice usually takes 2 to 4 hours to freeze, depending on your freezer temperature. Throw away the first 5 to 10 batches because they are often cloudy or hollow from air in the line.
Can I use an aftermarket ice maker in any refrigerator?
Aftermarket parts work in most refrigerators, but fit varies. Always check the product listing to confirm it matches your model number. Some aftermarket units have slightly loose clips or require small adjustments to align properly, but they function the same as OEM parts.
What should I do if the ice maker fills but does not freeze?
Check that your freezer temperature is set to 0°F or below — the thermostat dial should be on a colder setting. Wait 24 hours for the freezer to reach the new temperature. If the ice still does not freeze, the freezer may have a cooling problem unrelated to the ice maker, and you may need a technician to inspect the compressor or evaporator.