Start With the Simplest Fixes First

Most Whirlpool ice maker problems come from three things: a frozen water line, a stuck fill cup, or the ice maker turned off by accident. Before you call a technician, check whether the ice maker switch is in the On position — it is a small lever or button on the front or side of the ice maker itself, and it gets bumped into Off more often than you would think. Next, look at the water supply line running into the back of the refrigerator. If it feels hard and cold to the touch, the line is frozen and blocking water from reaching the ice maker.

If the ice maker is on and the water line feels normal, open the freezer door and look inside the ice maker bucket. You may see a stuck fill cup — a small plastic cup that fills with water and tips to dump it into the mold. If ice has built up around it or it looks crooked, that is your problem. These three issues account for roughly 80 percent of ice maker calls and all three are fixable without tools.

Key Takeaways

  • Check that the ice maker switch is in the On position and that the water supply line at the back of the refrigerator is not frozen solid.
  • A frozen water line can be thawed by turning off the ice maker, unplugging the refrigerator, and letting it sit for a few hours, or by pouring warm (not boiling) water over the line.
  • If the fill cup is stuck or crooked, remove the ice bucket, clear any ice buildup around the cup, and reseat it so it hangs straight.
  • If water is leaking inside the freezer, the water inlet valve may be cracked, and you will need to replace it — a 20-minute job with a wrench and the correct part number.
  • Whirlpool ice makers have different part numbers by model, so write down your refrigerator's model number (on a sticker inside the fridge) before ordering replacement parts.

Thaw a Frozen Water Supply Line

The water line that feeds your ice maker runs from the back of the refrigerator to the freezer compartment. If the temperature in your freezer is set very cold or if the line is not insulated well, water inside it can freeze and block the flow. You will know this is happening if the ice maker is on but no water is reaching the fill cup.

The fastest fix is to turn off the ice maker at its switch, unplug the refrigerator from the wall, and leave it unplugged for four to six hours. This lets the line thaw on its own. While you wait, you can also pour warm (not boiling) water over the water line where it enters the back of the refrigerator. Use water around 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit — hot enough that you can hold your hand under it but not so hot it steams. Do not use boiling water, because the sudden temperature change can crack the plastic line.

After the line has thawed, plug the refrigerator back in, turn the ice maker back on, and listen for the sound of water flowing into the fill cup. You should hear a brief humming sound as the water valve opens, followed by a quiet trickling. If you hear nothing, the line may still be partially frozen, or the problem is something else.

Clear a Stuck or Crooked Fill Cup

The fill cup is a small plastic cup mounted on the side of the ice maker assembly. When the ice maker cycle runs, a solenoid valve opens and water flows into this cup. The cup then tips and dumps the water into the ice mold. If the cup gets stuck in the tilted position or if ice builds up around it, water cannot collect and the ice maker stops producing.

To fix this, first turn off the ice maker switch. Open the freezer door and locate the ice bucket — it is the container that catches the finished ice cubes. Lift it straight up and out. You may need to wiggle it gently side to side. Once the bucket is out, you can see the fill cup clearly. Look for ice buildup around the cup or the arm that tips it. Use a plastic scraper or an old credit card to chip away any ice. Do not use a metal tool, because you can crack the plastic.

After you have cleared the ice, check that the fill cup hangs straight down and is not bent or twisted. If it is bent, you may be able to gently straighten it by hand, but if the plastic is cracked, the cup will need to be replaced. Slide the ice bucket back in, turn the ice maker on, and watch for water to flow into the cup on the next cycle. The ice maker usually runs a cycle every few hours, so you may need to wait a bit to see it work.

Replace a Cracked or Leaking Water Inlet Valve

If you see water pooling inside the freezer or dripping from under the ice maker, the water inlet valve is likely cracked or worn. This valve sits behind the refrigerator and controls the flow of water to the ice maker. When it fails, water leaks instead of flowing into the fill cup.

Replacing the valve takes about 20 minutes and requires a wrench (usually a 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch socket wrench) and the correct replacement part. First, unplug the refrigerator. Locate the water inlet valve at the back of the unit — it is a small brass or plastic box with two water lines connected to it. One line comes from the main water supply; the other goes to the ice maker. Take a photo of how the lines are connected before you disconnect them.

Use your wrench to loosen the nut on each water line and pull them free. You may see a small amount of water drip out — this is normal. Next, locate the mounting bracket that holds the valve to the refrigerator frame. It usually has one or two bolts. Remove these bolts and slide the valve out. Take the old valve to an appliance parts store or look up your refrigerator's model number online to order the exact replacement. Whirlpool uses different valve part numbers depending on the model year, so matching the number is important.

Install the new valve by sliding it into the mounting bracket and tightening the bolts. Reconnect the two water lines, making sure each nut is snug but not over-tightened — hand-tight plus a quarter turn with the wrench is usually right. Plug the refrigerator back in and listen for the ice maker to run. Check under the valve for leaks over the next hour.

Check the Ice Maker Motor and Solenoid

If the water line is not frozen, the fill cup is clear, and water is reaching the ice maker but no ice is forming, the problem may be the motor or solenoid. The motor turns the ejector arm that pushes finished cubes out of the mold. The solenoid is an electromagnet that opens the water valve. Both can wear out over time.

You can test the solenoid by listening carefully when the ice maker runs. You should hear a distinct click sound when the water valve opens. If you hear the motor humming but no click, the solenoid is not firing and water is not flowing. If you hear neither sound, the motor itself may be dead.

Testing these parts requires a multimeter and some electrical knowledge. If you are not comfortable with that, a service technician can test them in a few minutes. If either part has failed, it will need to be replaced. Whirlpool sells these parts separately, and you can order them using your model number. Motor and solenoid replacement is a 30-minute job for someone with basic mechanical skills.

Find Your Refrigerator Model Number and Order Parts

Whirlpool refrigerators have different ice maker assemblies depending on the model year and size. Before you order any part, you need your refrigerator's model number. This number is printed on a sticker inside the refrigerator, usually on the back wall or on the side wall near the top. It looks like a string of letters and numbers, such as WRF535SMHZ or WRS325FDAM.

Write down this number and use it to search for parts on the Whirlpool website, on appliance parts retailers like Repair Clinic or PartSelect, or at your local appliance supply store. When you search, you will see the exact parts that fit your model — ice maker assembly, fill cup, water inlet valve, motor, solenoid, and more. Prices vary, but most individual parts cost between $30 and $150. A complete ice maker assembly replacement runs $200 to $400.

If you are not sure which part you need, call a Whirlpool parts line or an appliance repair shop with your model number. They can tell you what is likely broken based on your symptoms and what the part costs. Many shops will also install the part for you if you do not want to do it yourself.

When to Call a Repair Technician

If you have tried the straightforward fixes — thawing the water line, clearing the fill cup, and checking the switch — and the ice maker still does not work, a technician can diagnose the problem in one visit. Bring your model number with you or have it ready when you call.

A service call usually costs $100 to $200 for the visit alone, plus the cost of any parts and labor. If your refrigerator is still under warranty, some repairs may be covered. Check your warranty paperwork or call Whirlpool customer service to find out. If the ice maker is the only problem and the refrigerator is old, you may find it cheaper to live without ice and use ice cube trays, or to buy a standalone ice maker, than to pay for a repair.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take for a Whirlpool ice maker to make its first batch of ice?

After you first plug in the refrigerator or after you thaw a frozen water line, the ice maker usually takes 6 to 12 hours to produce the first cubes. The freezer needs to reach the correct temperature, and the ice maker needs to run through a few cycles to fill the mold and freeze the ice solid. If nothing appears after 24 hours, the water is not reaching the fill cup.

Can I turn off the ice maker without unplugging the refrigerator?

Yes. Every Whirlpool ice maker has an on-off switch on the front or side of the unit. Flip it to Off and the ice maker will stop running. The refrigerator itself will keep cooling normally. This is useful if you need to thaw a frozen water line or if you are away for a long time and do not want ice to build up and get freezer burn.

What temperature should my freezer be set to for the ice maker to work?

Whirlpool recommends 0 degrees Fahrenheit or below for the freezer. If your freezer is warmer than that, ice will melt or form slowly. Check your freezer dial or digital display and adjust it down if needed. Give the freezer a few hours to reach the new temperature before you judge whether the ice maker is working.

Why is my ice maker making ice but the cubes are small or cloudy?

Small or cloudy ice usually means the water pressure is too low or the water has minerals in it. Low pressure can happen if the water line is partially clogged or if your home's water pressure is naturally low. Cloudy ice is caused by minerals like calcium in your tap water and is harmless, but you can improve it by installing a water filter on the refrigerator's inlet line.

Do I need to replace the entire ice maker assembly or just the broken part?

It depends on what is broken. If only the fill cup or water inlet valve is damaged, you can replace just that part and save money. If the motor, solenoid, or the plastic housing is cracked, replacing the whole assembly is often cheaper and faster than hunting down individual parts. Your parts supplier can tell you which option makes sense for your model.