What you need to do before you start

Replacing a Whirlpool ice maker is a task most homeowners can do themselves in about an hour, but it requires you to turn off the water supply first. The ice maker sits inside your freezer and connects to a water line that runs behind the refrigerator. If you don't shut off the water, you risk a leak that can damage your floor and cabinets.

Before you order a replacement, confirm your refrigerator model number. You'll find it on a sticker inside the fridge, usually on the wall behind the produce drawer or on the back wall. Write down the full model number—it looks like WRF535SMHZ or similar. This number tells you which ice maker will fit your machine. Whirlpool ice makers are not universal; a model made for a French-door fridge won't work in a side-by-side.

You'll also need to decide whether to buy the part from Whirlpool directly, a parts retailer like Repair Clinic or AppliancePartsPros, or a big-box store. Whirlpool parts tend to cost more but come with a warranty. Third-party retailers are usually cheaper. Expect to pay between $150 and $350 for the ice maker itself, depending on your model.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off the water supply to your refrigerator before you start, and unplug the fridge from the wall outlet for safety.
  • Find your refrigerator's model number on the sticker inside the fridge to order the correct replacement ice maker.
  • The old ice maker is held in place by two screws and one wire connector that you can remove by hand in about five minutes.
  • The water inlet tube on the new ice maker must be pushed firmly into the water line connector until it clicks, or water will leak inside your freezer.
  • After installation, allow 24 hours for the ice maker to produce its first batch of ice while the water line fills.

Shutting off the water and power

Locate the water shut-off valve behind your refrigerator. It's a small knob or lever attached to the copper or plastic water line that runs into the back of the fridge. Turn it clockwise (or flip the lever to the off position) until it stops. You don't need to force it—hand-tight is enough. If you can't find the valve behind the fridge, it may be under the sink or in a basement or crawl space where the water line originates.

Next, unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet. This protects you from electrical shock while you work. Leave the fridge unplugged for at least five minutes so any residual power drains from the circuit board. This step is especially important because the ice maker has electrical connections inside the freezer.

Removing the old ice maker

Open the freezer door and locate the ice maker on the right or left wall, depending on your model. It's a plastic box about the size of a shoebox. Look for two screws holding it to the freezer wall—they're usually on the sides or bottom. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove both screws. Keep them in a small cup so you don't lose them.

Now pull the ice maker gently toward you. As you do, you'll see a wire connector attached to the back. This connector has a small tab or clip. Press the tab and the connector will slide off. Don't yank on the wires themselves—always pull on the plastic connector body. Once the connector is free, the old ice maker comes out completely.

Before you throw away the old unit, check whether the water inlet tube (a small plastic or copper tube) is still attached to it. If it is, gently pull it straight out. You may need to use a flathead screwdriver to pry the connector open slightly. This tube will stay in place inside your freezer wall and connect to the new ice maker.

Installing the new ice maker

Take the new ice maker out of its box and inspect it for damage. Check that the water inlet tube on the back is present and not cracked. If your old ice maker had a tube that you removed, you can reuse it, but Whirlpool recommends using the new tube that comes with the replacement unit.

Slide the new ice maker into the opening where the old one sat. The screw holes should line up. If they don't, stop and double-check that you have the correct model. Insert the two screws and tighten them by hand first, then use the screwdriver to snug them down. They should be firm but not over-tightened, which can crack the plastic housing.

Now connect the water inlet tube. The tube on the back of the ice maker has a connector that slides over the water line inside the wall. Push it straight in until you hear or feel a click. This click means the connector has locked onto the line. If you don't feel a click, pull it back out and try again. A loose connection will leak water into your freezer within hours of turning the water back on.

Reconnecting power and water

Plug the refrigerator back into the wall outlet. You should hear the compressor start up after a few seconds. This is normal. Now turn the water shut-off valve counterclockwise (or flip the lever back to the on position) to restore water to the ice maker. Listen for the sound of water flowing into the ice maker—you may hear a brief hum or click as the water inlet valve opens.

Check inside the freezer around the ice maker for any drips or pooling water. If you see water, turn the shut-off valve back off when ready and pull the ice maker out to inspect the water connection. The most common cause of leaks is a tube that wasn't pushed in far enough. Push it in again and test.

What to expect in the first 24 hours

The ice maker will not produce ice right away. The water line inside the wall needs to fill, and the ice maker's internal sensors need to detect that water is present. This usually takes between 30 minutes and two hours. You may hear clicking or humming sounds as the ice maker cycles through its first fill.

After the water line fills, the ice maker will begin to freeze its first batch. This batch often comes out small, cloudy, or misshapen because air is still in the line. Discard the first two or three batches of ice. By 24 hours, the ice should look normal—clear and full-sized.

If no ice appears after 24 hours, check that the water shut-off valve is fully open and that the water line connection is tight. If water is flowing but ice still isn't forming, the ice maker may be defective. Contact the retailer or Whirlpool for a replacement under warranty.

When to call a professional

If you're uncomfortable working with water lines or electrical connections, or if your refrigerator is still under warranty, a service technician can do this job for you. Whirlpool's service line can refer you to an authorized repair center in your area. Expect to pay $200 to $400 in labor, plus the cost of the part.

You should also call a professional if you can't locate the water shut-off valve, if the valve won't turn, or if water is actively leaking from behind the refrigerator. A stuck valve or hidden leak suggests a plumbing problem that goes beyond the ice maker itself.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a third-party ice maker instead of a Whirlpool brand?

No. Ice makers are model-specific and won't fit or work in a refrigerator they weren't designed for. Always order a replacement that matches your exact model number. Using an incompatible ice maker will void your warranty and may damage the water line or electrical system.

What if water leaks after I install the new ice maker?

Turn off the water shut-off valve when ready and pull the ice maker out. The most common cause is a water inlet tube that wasn't pushed in far enough. Remove the tube, inspect it for cracks, and push it back in until you feel a firm click. Reinstall the ice maker and test again.

How long does it take for the ice maker to start working?

The water line fills within 30 minutes to two hours. The first batch of ice appears after another few hours. Discard the first two or three batches because they often contain air and taste off. Normal ice production usually begins within 24 hours.

Do I need any special tools?

You only need a Phillips head screwdriver. A flathead screwdriver can help if the water inlet connector is tight, but it's not required. You don't need a wrench, pliers, or any specialized appliance tools.

What if I can't find the water shut-off valve behind the refrigerator?

The valve may be located under the kitchen sink, in a basement, or in a crawl space where the water line originates. Trace the water line backward from the fridge. If you still can't find it, shut off the main water supply to your house before you start the replacement.