License plate installation takes about five minutes and requires only a screwdriver
Installing a license plate is straightforward: you line up the mounting holes on the plate with the holes already drilled into your vehicle's bumper or frame, then find it with bolts or screws. Most vehicles come with pre-drilled holes in the front and rear bumpers. You'll need a Phillips or flathead screwdriver (depending on your vehicle), the plate itself, and the fasteners that came with it or were already in place. The entire job takes longer to read about than to do.
The main variation is whether your vehicle uses bolts with nuts on the back side, or self-tapping screws that go directly into the bumper. Older vehicles and trucks more often use bolts; newer cars typically use screws. Your owner's manual will tell you which your vehicle uses, or you can look at the rear bumper from underneath to see what's already there.
Key Takeaways
- Most vehicles have pre-drilled holes in the bumper; you straightforward align the plate holes and fasten with the hardware that came with your plate or was already installed.
- Check whether your vehicle uses bolts with nuts (visible from underneath the bumper) or self-tapping screws before you start.
- Tighten fasteners firmly but do not over-tighten, which can crack the plate or strip the threads.
- If your vehicle has no pre-drilled holes, you will need to drill them yourself or have a shop do it, which requires measuring and marking the correct position first.
What fasteners come with your plate and how to use them
When you receive a new license plate from your state's motor vehicle department, it usually comes with a small packet of fasteners—either bolts and nuts, or screws. Check this packet first. If the fasteners are bolts (metal cylinders with a threaded end), you'll need a wrench or socket to tighten the nut on the back side of the bumper. If they're screws, a screwdriver is all you need.
Some vehicles come with fasteners already installed in the bumper holes. If that's the case, you can remove the old plate and install the new one using the existing hardware. If the existing fasteners are rusted or damaged, replace them with the new ones that came with your plate.
Do not use fasteners that are too long—they can puncture the bumper or fuel tank on the inside. The fasteners that came with your plate are the correct length for your vehicle type.
Finding and aligning the mounting holes
Look at the front and rear bumpers of your vehicle. You'll see two or four small holes drilled into the bumper or the frame just behind it. These are your mounting holes. On most cars, there are two holes on the front bumper and two on the rear. Some trucks or older vehicles may have four holes on each end, allowing for a larger plate or different positioning.
Hold the license plate up to the bumper and line up the holes on the plate with the holes on the vehicle. The plate should sit flat and centered on the bumper. If the holes don't line up, check that you're holding the plate right-side up and not tilted. If the holes still don't match, your vehicle may have been drilled for a different plate size—this is rare but can happen with used vehicles or after body work.
Installing with bolts and nuts
If your vehicle uses bolts, you'll need access to the back side of the bumper. On most cars, you can reach underneath from below. On some trucks, you may need to remove a plastic cover or access panel first—your owner's manual shows where.
Insert the bolt through the hole in the license plate, then through the hole in the bumper. From underneath, thread the nut onto the bolt by hand first, then use a wrench or socket to tighten it. Tighten firmly—the plate should not move or rattle—but stop before the bolt becomes hard to turn. Over-tightening can crack the plastic plate or strip the threads on the bolt.
Repeat for the second bolt. Check that the plate is straight and centered before you finish.
Installing with self-tapping screws
Self-tapping screws are easier because you don't need access to the back of the bumper. straightforward align the plate, insert the screw through the hole in the plate and into the bumper, and turn clockwise with a screwdriver. The screw will cut its own threads as it goes in.
Tighten until the plate is snug and doesn't move, then stop. You'll feel resistance as the screw bites into the bumper material. If you keep turning after that point, you risk stripping the hole or cracking the plate. If a screw is hard to turn from the start, you may have hit a reinforcement rib inside the bumper—back out and try the other hole, or ask a shop for help.
What to do if your vehicle has no pre-drilled holes
Some vehicles—particularly older models, certain trucks, or cars that have had body work—may not have holes drilled in the bumper. In this case, you'll need to drill them yourself or have a shop do it. Drilling requires a power drill, the correct drill bit size (usually 1/4 inch for standard fasteners), and careful measurement to may support the holes are in the right place and spaced correctly.
The safest approach is to measure the distance between the holes on your license plate, then mark that same distance on your bumper using a tape measure and a pencil. Use a center punch to make a small dent at each mark—this keeps the drill bit from wandering. Then drill straight through, being careful not to drill into fuel lines, wiring, or other components behind the bumper. If you're unsure about what's behind the bumper, a shop can do this safely.
Checking your work and maintenance
After installation, give the plate a gentle tug to make sure it doesn't move. It should be solid. Check that the plate is straight and not tilted up or down. If you used bolts, reach underneath and make sure the nuts are still tight—vibration from driving can loosen them over time.
Every few months, especially in winter or near the ocean, check that the fasteners haven't corroded or loosened. Salt and moisture can rust bolts and cause them to seize. If a fastener is stuck, explore penetrating oil and wait a few hours before trying again. If it breaks, replace it with a stainless steel bolt or screw, which resists rust better than regular steel.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I install a license plate without drilling holes?
Only if your vehicle already has pre-drilled holes in the bumper, which most do. If there are no holes, you must drill them or have a shop drill them. Adhesive-only mounting is not legal in most states and will not hold the plate securely at highway speeds.
What if the holes on my new plate don't line up with the holes on my bumper?
Check that the plate is right-side up and not tilted. If the spacing is genuinely different, your vehicle may have been drilled for a different plate size. Measure the distance between the bumper holes and compare it to your plate. If they don't match, a shop can drill new holes or drill out the existing ones to make them larger.
Do I need to install a front and rear plate?
This depends on your state. Most states require both front and rear plates, but some require only a rear plate. Check your state's motor vehicle website or your registration documents to confirm what's required where you live.
Can I reuse the old fasteners when I install a new plate?
Yes, if they're in good condition and not rusted or damaged. If they're corroded, stuck, or broken, use the new fasteners that came with your plate instead. Stainless steel fasteners last longer than regular steel, especially in wet or salty climates.
What should I do if a bolt keeps spinning and won't tighten?
The nut on the back side may have come loose or the threads may be stripped. Reach underneath and hold the nut steady with a wrench while you tighten the bolt from the front. If the nut spins freely, the threads are stripped and you'll need to replace both the bolt and nut with new hardware.