What you need before you start
You need the new string itself, a wire cutter, and a tuner. Most people already own a tuner on their phone — search your app store for "guitar tuner" and pick one with good reviews. The wire cutter can be any household scissors or diagonal cutters; a dedicated string cutter is nicer but not necessary. Lay out a clean, flat surface where you can see what you are doing.
Have the old string in front of you so you know what gauge and type you are replacing. If you do not know, look at the packaging of a new set or check the manufacturer's website for your guitar model — they list the standard gauges. You do not need to replace all six strings at once unless you want to; one string takes about ten minutes.
Key Takeaways
- Loosen the tuning peg for the string you are replacing until the string goes slack, then unwind it completely and pull it out of the bridge.
- Insert the new string through the bridge hole, pull it taut toward the headstock, and thread it through the tuning peg hole.
- Wind the string around the tuning peg post in a downward spiral, keeping tension so the wraps stay neat and do not overlap.
- Tune the string to pitch using a tuner app, then trim the excess string at the headstock with wire cutters.
- New strings take a few hours to settle; retune every 30 minutes for the first two hours, then check again before you play seriously.
Loosen and remove the old string
Turn the tuning peg for the string you are replacing counterclockwise (when viewed from the front of the headstock). Turn it slowly and steadily until the string goes completely slack — you should be able to wiggle it freely with your finger. Keep turning until the string unwinds from the tuning peg post entirely.
Once the string is loose, pull it out of the bridge. On an acoustic guitar, the bridge pin (a small wooden or plastic peg) sits on top of the string at the bridge; pull that pin straight up and out first, then pull the string free. On an electric guitar, the string usually threads through a hole in the bridge or bridge block — straightforward pull it out. Set the old string aside.
Thread the new string through the bridge
Take the new string and insert the ball end (the small metal ball at one end) into the bridge hole or under the bridge pin. On an acoustic, push the bridge pin back in on top of the string to hold it in place. On an electric, the ball end sits in the bridge block or bridge hole — it will stay put on its own.
Pull the string up toward the headstock with moderate tension so it runs straight along the fretboard. Do not pull so hard that you bend the string or stress the bridge; just enough so it lies flat and does not sag. The string should run parallel to the other strings.
Wind the string onto the tuning peg
Thread the free end of the string through the hole in the tuning peg post. Leave about two inches of slack — enough that you can wrap it around the post two or three times. Hold the string lightly with one hand to keep it taut, and turn the tuning peg clockwise (when viewed from the front) with the other hand.
As you turn, the string will wrap around the post in a spiral. Keep the string under light tension so each wrap sits neatly below the one above it and does not overlap or bunch up. If the wraps start to cross over each other, stop, unwind, and start again. Three to four clean wraps is ideal; more than five is usually too many and can cause tuning problems.
Wind until the string is snug and has risen in pitch noticeably — you should hear it getting higher. Stop before it reaches full pitch; you will finish tuning in the next step.
Tune to pitch and trim the excess
Open your tuner app and pluck the string. The tuner will show you how far off pitch you are. Turn the tuning peg clockwise to raise the pitch or counterclockwise to lower it until the tuner shows the correct note — usually E, A, D, G, B, or E depending on which string you are replacing. Make small adjustments; it is straightforward to overshoot.
Once the string is in tune, use your wire cutter to trim the excess string at the headstock. Leave about half an inch of slack so the string does not pull free, but cut away the long tail. Be careful not to cut the string itself where it wraps around the post.
Let the string settle and retune
New strings stretch as they settle, which means they will go flat (drop in pitch) over the next few hours. Retune the string after five minutes, then again after 15 minutes, then every 30 minutes for the first two hours. Each time you retune, the string will need less adjustment.
After two hours, check the tuning one more time before you play seriously. By the next day, the string should hold pitch reliably. If a string keeps dropping in pitch after 24 hours, the tuning peg may be slipping — loosen it slightly and retighten, or have a technician check the fit.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if the string breaks while I am winding it?
Stop when ready and remove the broken piece from the tuning peg. Start over with a fresh string. Breaking usually means you wound too tightly or the string caught on something sharp. Check the bridge and tuning peg for burrs or rough edges; if you find any, smooth them gently with fine sandpaper before installing the next string.
Can I reuse the old string?
Not for playing. Old strings lose elasticity, sound dull, and break easily. Keep them only if you want a spare in an emergency. A full set of replacement strings costs between five and fifteen dollars depending on the guitar type, so buying fresh strings is worth the cost.
How tight should I wind the string around the post?
Tight enough that it does not slip when you tug on it, but not so tight that you bend the post or stress the headstock. If the string slips during tuning, the post fit may be loose — wrap the string one extra time or see a technician. Most tuning pegs are designed to hold three to four wraps without slipping.
Do I need to replace all the strings at once?
No. You can replace one string whenever it breaks or sounds dead. Replacing all six at once is useful if you want a fresh sound or if multiple strings are old, but it is not required. If you do replace all six, do it one at a time rather than removing them all at once — leaving the neck under tension from the strings prevents warping.