Anubias grows best when tied or weighted down, not buried in substrate

Anubias is a slow-growing aquatic plant that attaches to hard surfaces rather than rooting into gravel or sand. The most common mistake is burying the rhizome—the thick horizontal stem where leaves emerge—under substrate. When you bury it, the rhizome rots within weeks. Instead, you tie or glue the plant to driftwood, rocks, or other hardscape, and let the roots grow freely into the water column.

The plant will survive in low light and does not need added fertilizers in most tanks, which makes it forgiving for beginners. It grows slowly, so you will not need to trim it often. Once attached, anubias can stay in the same spot for years.

Key Takeaways

  • Never bury the rhizome in substrate; tie or glue the plant to driftwood or rock instead, leaving the rhizome exposed to water.
  • Use fishing line, thread, or plant-safe glue to find anubias; fishing line takes two to four weeks to disappear as roots anchor the plant.
  • Position the plant in low to moderate light; it does not need special lighting or fertilizers in most established tanks.
  • Anubias grows slowly and rarely needs pruning, but you can remove yellowing leaves by cutting the petiole (leaf stem) at the base.

Securing anubias with fishing line or thread

The fastest way to attach anubias is with fishing line or cotton thread. Cut a piece about 12 inches long. Wrap it around the rhizome and the hardscape—driftwood, rock, or bogwood—several times, then tie it off with a straightforward knot. The knot should be tight enough that the plant does not slide, but not so tight that it crushes the rhizome.

Within two to four weeks, the plant's roots will grow into the hardscape and anchor themselves. Once that happens, the fishing line or thread will loosen and eventually fall away on its own. You do not need to remove it manually. If the line is still visible after six weeks and bothers you, you can carefully cut it away with scissors.

Cotton thread breaks down faster than fishing line—usually within two to three weeks—so it is a good choice if you want the tie to disappear quickly. Fishing line lasts longer but is less visible in the tank.

Using plant-safe glue or super glue

Cyanoacrylate glue—the same ingredient in super glue—bonds anubias permanently to hardscape and is safe for fish and plants once it cures. Use a small amount on the rhizome and press it firmly against the rock or driftwood for 30 seconds. Let it cure for 24 hours before adding the plant to the tank.

Plant-specific glues like those sold for aquascaping work the same way and are formulated to cure underwater, so you can glue the plant directly in the tank if you prefer. Either method is reliable. The downside is that the plant becomes permanent—if you want to move it later, you will have to pry it off and may damage the rhizome.

Avoid using regular silicone sealant. It can leach chemicals into the water and is not designed for this purpose.

Positioning anubias in your tank

Anubias tolerates low light, so you can place it in shaded areas where other plants struggle. It does well under standard aquarium lighting and does not require high-intensity lights or CO₂ injection. If you have bright lighting and want to prevent algae from coating the leaves, position anubias in the shade of taller plants or hardscape.

The plant prefers cooler water—between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit—but adapts to most community tank temperatures. It grows in neutral to slightly acidic water (pH 6.0 to 7.0) but is flexible enough to survive in a wider range. Water hardness does not matter much.

Leave space around the plant so water can flow freely across the leaves. Stagnant water around the foliage can encourage algae and fungal growth. If you are using a power filter or air stone, position anubias where it receives gentle current.

Caring for anubias after planting

Anubias does not need fertilizers in most tanks because fish waste provides enough nutrients. If your tank is heavily planted or you want faster growth, you can add a liquid all-in-one fertilizer once a week at half the recommended dose. Start with no fertilizer and only add it if you see yellowing leaves or stunted growth.

Remove dead or yellowing leaves by pinching or cutting the petiole—the thin stem connecting the leaf to the rhizome—at its base. Do not pull the leaf; cutting prevents damage to the rhizome. New leaves emerge from the center of the plant, so you will see growth even if older outer leaves die.

Anubias rarely needs pruning. If it grows too large, you can divide it by carefully separating the rhizome into two or three pieces, each with at least two leaves. Let the cut ends dry for a few hours before attaching the new pieces to hardscape.

Common problems and how to fix them

If the rhizome turns soft or mushy, it is rotting—usually because it was buried or because water flow is too poor. Remove the plant, cut away the rotted section with a clean knife, and reattach the healthy portion to hardscape in a spot with better water movement. Discard the rotted piece.

Yellowing leaves that start at the base and move upward usually mean the plant is not getting enough light or nutrients. Move it to a brighter spot or add a liquid fertilizer. If only the oldest outer leaves yellow while new growth looks healthy, that is normal aging and requires no action.

Algae coating the leaves is common in high-light tanks. Increase water flow around the plant, reduce lighting duration to 8 to 10 hours per day, or add an algae-eating fish like an otocinclus or amano shrimp. Anubias itself does not cause algae; the algae is a sign of excess nutrients or light.

Slow or no growth over several months usually means the plant is in very low light or the tank is new and has not cycled yet. Anubias is patient—it will grow once conditions stabilize. Do not expect rapid change; this plant can take months to produce a single new leaf.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I plant anubias in gravel or sand?

No. Burying the rhizome causes it to rot within two to four weeks. The rhizome must stay exposed to water. Tie or glue the plant to hardscape instead, and let the roots grow into the substrate if they want to—they will not, but the plant will not be harmed if they do.

How long does it take anubias to attach to driftwood?

Roots begin growing into the hardscape within one to two weeks, but the plant does not feel truly anchored until four to six weeks have passed. During this time, keep the fishing line or thread tight so the plant does not shift. Once roots are established, you can remove the tie.

Do I need to add CO₂ or special fertilizers for anubias?

No. Anubias grows without either. In an established tank with fish, waste provides enough nutrients. CO₂ does not speed growth noticeably. Add fertilizer only if you see yellowing leaves or if your tank is heavily planted with fast-growing species that consume nutrients quickly.

What light does anubias need?

Anubias tolerates low light and does well under standard aquarium lighting. It does not need high-intensity lights. In very bright tanks, position it in shade to prevent algae from coating the leaves. Eight to ten hours of light per day is typical for most tanks.

Can I move anubias after it is attached?

Yes, if you used fishing line or thread—just cut the tie and reattach it elsewhere. If you glued it, you will have to pry it off carefully, which may damage the rhizome. Plan the placement before gluing, or use fishing line if you think you might want to move it later.