Aquarium shrimp eat algae, plant matter, and sinking pellets designed for bottom feeders
Shrimp are scavengers that spend most of their time on the tank floor and plants, eating algae, decaying leaves, and uneaten food that falls from above. In an established tank with algae growth, shrimp can survive on what they find naturally. In newer or very clean tanks, you need to feed them deliberately. The best approach is to combine what grows in your tank with targeted foods you add a few times per week.
Shrimp do not need daily feeding like fish do. Overfeeding is the most common mistake—uneaten food decays, fouls the water, and kills the shrimp. Start with small amounts, watch what gets eaten in a few hours, and adjust from there.
Key Takeaways
- Shrimp eat algae and plant matter naturally in the tank, so a new tank may need supplemental feeding while an established one may not.
- Sinking pellets made for shrimp or bottom feeders are the easiest supplemental food and should be fed in small pinches two to three times per week.
- Blanched vegetables like zucchini, spinach, and cucumber are free or cheap and shrimp will eat them over several days before they decay.
- Avoid overfeeding—uneaten food decays quickly and creates ammonia spikes that kill shrimp faster than starvation would.
- Shrimp also need calcium for shell growth, which comes from driftwood, cuttlebone, or mineral supplements in the water.
Sinking pellets and granules for shrimp
Sinking pellets are the most reliable supplemental food because they are formulated for shrimp nutrition and sink to the bottom where shrimp feed. Look for pellets labeled for shrimp, bottom feeders, or algae eaters—brands like Hikari Sinking Wafers, Fluval Bug Bites, and Aqueon Shrimp Pellets are widely available and reasonably priced.
Feed a small pinch—roughly the size of a pea—two to three times per week per 10 shrimp. Watch for 30 minutes after feeding. If pellets remain on the bottom after that time, you fed too much. Remove uneaten pellets with a small net or siphon. Shrimp will eat the same pellets over several hours, so do not assume they are not interested if they do not swarm when ready.
Pellets work in any tank size and do not spoil as quickly as fresh food. They are also consistent—you know exactly what nutrition your shrimp are getting. Store them in a cool, dry place and replace them every six months, as the oils in pellets can go rancid.
Blanched vegetables as a free feeding option
Shrimp will eat blanched (briefly boiled) vegetables, and this is an inexpensive way to feed them if you have vegetables at home. Zucchini, spinach, cucumber, and carrot are the easiest options. Avoid starchy vegetables like potato and corn, which break down too quickly and foul the water.
To blanch: cut a thin slice or small piece of vegetable, drop it into boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds until it softens slightly, then cool it in tap water. Place it in the tank and anchor it with a small weight or clip so it does not float. Shrimp will begin eating it within a few hours. Remove any uneaten portion after two to three days—if it starts to break apart or cloud the water, take it out when ready.
Vegetables are best fed once or twice per week, not daily. They decay faster than pellets and can crash water quality if left too long. A single thin slice feeds 5 to 10 shrimp for a day or two. Start small and watch how long it takes to disappear before you add more.
Algae wafers and spirulina supplements
Algae wafers are compressed tablets of algae and plant matter that sink and soften as shrimp eat them. They are similar to pellets but made primarily from algae rather than mixed ingredients. Brands like Hikari Algae Wafers and Tetra Algae Wafers are common. Feed one wafer per 5 to 10 shrimp, two to three times per week.
Spirulina-based foods are also available as powders or small pellets and are rich in plant protein. These work well as an occasional supplement but should not be the only food—variety matters. Use spirulina once per week alongside pellets or vegetables.
Both algae wafers and spirulina products are more expensive per feeding than basic sinking pellets, so many keepers use them as occasional treats rather than staple foods. They are useful if you want to rotate foods or if your shrimp seem bored with one type of pellet.
Natural algae and plant growth in the tank
In an established tank with moderate lighting and some plant growth, shrimp will find enough food on their own. They graze on biofilm—a thin layer of algae and bacteria that grows on surfaces—and nibble soft plant leaves and algae. If your tank has live plants, shrimp will eat some of the plant matter, though they rarely damage healthy plants significantly.
A tank with driftwood, rocks, and plants provides more surface area for biofilm to grow, which means more natural food for shrimp. If you want to reduce feeding frequency, add more hardscape and plants. A heavily planted tank with 10 to 15 shrimp may not need supplemental food at all if it is mature and not overly cleaned.
New tanks (less than four weeks old) do not have enough algae and biofilm yet, so shrimp will need supplemental feeding from day one. Once the tank is established, you can reduce feeding or stop entirely and observe whether shrimp look healthy. Healthy shrimp are active, have full bellies, and do not appear thin or pale.
Calcium and mineral supplements for shell health
Shrimp need calcium to grow and maintain their shells. In a tank with driftwood or rocks, they get some calcium by grazing on these surfaces. If your tank has neither, or if your water is very soft, add a calcium supplement.
Options include cuttlebone (the white bone from cuttlefish, available at pet stores), crushed eggshells boiled and dried, or liquid mineral supplements like Flourish Comprehensive or Thrive. Cuttlebone is the cheapest and easiest—straightforward place a piece in the tank and shrimp will nibble it as needed. Replace it every few months as it dissolves.
Soft water (low in minerals) is common in areas with low mineral content in tap water. If your shrimp shells look thin, pale, or soft, or if they molt frequently but do not harden afterward, add calcium. You do not need to dose it daily—once or twice per month is enough if you have driftwood or cuttlebone in the tank.
Feeding schedule and common mistakes
A straightforward feeding routine is: sinking pellets two to three times per week in small pinches, plus one blanched vegetable serving per week if you want variety. In a mature, planted tank, you may skip pellets entirely and feed vegetables only. In a new tank, feed pellets three times per week until algae growth increases.
The most common mistake is overfeeding. Shrimp are small and need very little food. A pinch that looks tiny to you is a full meal for several shrimp. Excess food decays, raises ammonia and nitrite, and kills shrimp within hours. If you are unsure whether to feed, skip that day—shrimp can go a week without food and will not starve.
The second mistake is feeding only one type of food. Variety keeps shrimp healthy and interested. Rotate between pellets, vegetables, and algae wafers over the course of a week. The third mistake is leaving food in the tank too long. Remove uneaten food after 2 to 4 hours for pellets, or after 2 to 3 days for vegetables. Do not wait until it visibly decays.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can shrimp eat fish food?
Most fish pellets sink too slowly or float, and shrimp cannot reach them. Fish food is also formulated for fish nutrition, not shrimp. Use shrimp-specific pellets or bottom-feeder pellets instead. If you keep fish and shrimp together, feed fish at the surface and shrimp separately with sinking food.
How often should I feed shrimp if the tank has live plants?
In a heavily planted tank, shrimp may not need supplemental feeding at all. Start by feeding pellets once per week and observe whether shrimp look active and well-fed. If they do, reduce to once every two weeks or stop feeding pellets entirely. Watch their bellies—a full belly means they are finding enough food naturally.
Will shrimp eat dead fish or decaying plant matter?
Yes. Shrimp are scavengers and will eat dead fish, dead plant leaves, and any decaying organic matter in the tank. This is actually helpful because they clean up waste. However, do not rely on this—remove dead fish when ready to prevent ammonia spikes, and trim dead plant leaves so they do not decay in the water.
What if I go on vacation for two weeks?
Shrimp can survive two to three weeks without food if the tank is established and has algae or plants. Do not overfeed before you leave, as uneaten food will foul the water while you are gone. If the tank is new or has no plants, ask someone to feed a small pinch of pellets once per week while you are away.
Do cherry shrimp and ghost shrimp eat the same foods?
Yes. All freshwater aquarium shrimp species eat the same foods—pellets, vegetables, algae, and biofilm. Feeding does not differ by species. The main difference is that larger shrimp like Amano shrimp eat more than smaller species like cherry shrimp, so adjust portion size accordingly.