Start with free or salvaged materials

The cheapest chicken coops are built from materials you already have or can get for nothing. Before you buy anything, check your garage, shed, and basement for old wooden pallets, scrap lumber, wire fencing, and roofing material. Pallets are especially useful—they form walls and floors quickly, and many businesses give them away or sell them for a few dollars.

Post a request on Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, or Nextdoor asking for old wood, metal roofing, or chicken wire. People cleaning out sheds often have exactly what you need. Check local construction sites on weekends—contractors sometimes leave behind usable scraps. Your city may also have a materials exchange or salvage yard where you can buy reclaimed wood at a fraction of retail price.

Even if you buy some materials new, using salvage for the frame cuts your total cost dramatically. A basic 4-by-8-foot coop that houses four to six chickens can be built for $100 to $150 if you source most of the wood for free.

Key Takeaways

  • Pallets, scrap lumber, and old fencing from friends, Craigslist, or construction sites can provide most of the frame and walls at no cost.
  • A straightforward design with a wooden frame, wire mesh walls, and a basic roof protects chickens from predators and weather for under $200.
  • Hardware cloth (not chicken wire) is the one material worth buying new because it resists predators better than lighter mesh.
  • A coop 4 feet by 8 feet houses four to six chickens comfortably and is large enough to build without advanced carpentry skills.
  • Avoid roosts, nesting boxes, and automatic doors in your first build—add these later once the basic shelter is working.

Choose a straightforward rectangular design

The cheapest coop to build is a basic box: four walls, a roof, and a floor. Forget the fancy A-frame designs or elaborate nesting boxes you see online. A rectangular frame made from 2-by-4 lumber (or salvaged wood of similar size) takes a few hours to assemble and costs far less than fancier shapes.

A 4-by-8-foot footprint is the standard size for a small backyard flock. It is large enough to house four to six chickens without crowding, small enough to move if needed, and straightforward enough to build without experience. The walls can be 3 to 4 feet tall—tall enough for you to stand inside and clean, but not so tall that you waste material.

Sketch your design on paper before you start. Mark the dimensions, note where the door will go, and plan how the roof will slope so rain runs off. A straightforward pitched roof (sloped in one direction) is faster to build than a peaked roof and sheds water just as well. You do not need detailed blueprints—a rough sketch and a tape measure are enough.

Use hardware cloth instead of chicken wire

Hardware cloth is a metal mesh with small, square holes—usually 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch. Chicken wire has larger, hexagonal holes and tears easily. Raccoons, weasels, and rats can tear through chicken wire in minutes. Hardware cloth costs more per foot but lasts years and actually keeps predators out. This is the one material worth buying new rather than salvaging.

Measure the perimeter of your coop and add 10 percent for overlap and waste. For a 4-by-8-foot coop with 3-foot walls, you need roughly 70 linear feet of hardware cloth. A roll of 1/2-inch hardware cloth 24 inches wide costs $30 to $50 depending on your supplier. Staple it to the wooden frame with a staple gun, overlapping seams by at least 2 inches and stapling every 4 to 6 inches so it cannot be peeled back.

Cover the floor with hardware cloth too if predators are a problem in your area. Dig a shallow trench around the perimeter, lay the cloth on the ground, and bury the edges 6 inches deep. This stops burrowing predators from tunneling underneath. If digging is not practical, at least staple cloth to the bottom of the frame so nothing can squeeze in from below.

Build the frame from salvaged or budget lumber

Start with the base. Lay four pieces of wood in a rectangle on level ground—these form the perimeter. If you are using pallets, disassemble them and use the boards. If you are buying new, 2-by-4 lumber is standard and affordable. Screw or nail the corners together so the base is square and rigid.

Stand up four vertical posts at each corner and screw them to the base. These posts support the roof and walls. They do not need to be perfectly straight—salvaged wood often is not—but they should be roughly vertical. Brace them with diagonal pieces of wood or wire if they wobble.

Attach horizontal boards between the posts to form the walls. You can use full boards for a solid wall, or space boards a few inches apart and cover the gaps with hardware cloth. Spacing boards saves wood and lets air flow through, which keeps the coop cooler in summer. Leave one side or section open for a door—a straightforward hinged panel made from a frame of 2-by-2s and covered with hardware cloth works well.

Create a roof that sheds water

The roof is the most important part because it keeps rain and snow off your chickens. A straightforward pitched roof is easiest: two long boards run the length of the coop at different heights, and shorter boards (called rafters) connect them at an angle. Cover the rafters with plywood or old roofing material, then add shingles, metal panels, or even heavy plastic sheeting to shed water.

Salvaged metal roofing is ideal because it lasts decades and sheds water reliably. Old corrugated panels from a farm or industrial building often cost $5 to $10 each. Plywood covered with tar paper or plastic is cheaper and works fine for a few years. Avoid leaving wood exposed to weather—it rots quickly and weakens the structure.

Slope the roof at least 15 degrees so water runs off rather than pooling. Overhang the edges by 6 to 12 inches so rain does not run down the walls. A small gutter or drip edge made from a bent piece of metal or wood keeps water away from the base where it can rot the frame.

Add ventilation and a straightforward door

Chickens need fresh air, especially in warm weather. Leave gaps between boards or install a vent near the top of one wall. The vent can be as straightforward as a hole covered with hardware cloth to keep predators out. In winter, a small vent is enough; in summer, you may want to open a side panel or door to let air flow through.

The door should be large enough for you to reach in and collect eggs, and for chickens to move in and out. A 12-by-12-inch opening is typical. Hinge a wooden frame covered with hardware cloth so it swings open and closed. Add a straightforward latch—a hook and eye, a bolt, or even a carabiner—so the door stays shut at night when predators are active.

Do not add a ramp or roost yet. Chickens can jump up and down from a low coop, and they will roost on the floor or on a straightforward board you add later. Keep the first build minimal so you can finish it quickly and get your chickens sheltered.

Protect the floor and add bedding

The floor can be bare earth, wood, or hardware cloth over earth. Bare earth is free but gets muddy and harbors parasites. A wooden floor is easier to clean but rots over time. Hardware cloth over earth is a good middle ground—it lets water drain and stops burrowing predators, but you can still sweep out wet bedding.

Spread 4 to 6 inches of bedding on the floor: wood shavings, straw, or leaves work well. Avoid cedar and pine shavings because they irritate chickens' lungs. The bedding absorbs moisture and droppings, keeps the coop warmer in winter, and gives chickens something to scratch in. Replace it every few weeks or when it gets wet and packed down.

If you use a wooden floor, drill holes in the corners so water can drain out. Slope the floor slightly toward the door so water runs out when you hose it clean. A wooden floor costs more upfront but makes cleaning faster and easier.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use regular chicken wire instead of hardware cloth?

Chicken wire keeps chickens in but not predators out. Raccoons tear through it easily, and weasels can squeeze through the large holes. Hardware cloth costs more but actually protects your flock. If budget is very tight, use chicken wire for the roof and top walls where predators cannot push from below, and hardware cloth for the bottom 2 feet where pressure is greatest.

How much does it cost to build a basic coop?

If you salvage the wood frame, a 4-by-8-foot coop costs $80 to $150 for hardware cloth, roofing material, fasteners, and bedding. If you buy all lumber new, expect $150 to $250. Prices vary by region and what materials you can find free or used.

Do I need to bury the hardware cloth around the perimeter?

Burying cloth 6 inches deep stops burrowing predators like raccoons and foxes. If your area has few burrowing predators, you can skip this step and save time. At minimum, staple cloth to the bottom of the frame so nothing can squeeze in from below.

Can I build a coop without any power tools?

Yes. A hand saw, hammer, screwdriver, and staple gun are enough. A power drill and circular saw speed up the work, but they are not necessary. Hand tools take longer but cost less and work just as well for a small coop.

What size coop do I need for my chickens?

Plan for 3 to 4 square feet of floor space per chicken inside the coop, and 8 to 10 square feet per chicken in an outdoor run. A 4-by-8-foot coop (32 square feet) comfortably houses four to six chickens. Larger flocks need larger coops, but a bigger coop costs more to build and heat in winter.