Build a functional chicken run for $50 to $150 using scrap wood, wire fencing, and basic tools

A chicken run is a movable or fixed enclosure that lets your birds forage safely during the day without predators reaching them. You can build one cheaply by using reclaimed materials, standard lumber from a hardware store, and wire fencing instead of buying a pre-made kit. The simplest design is a rectangular frame made from 2x2 wood, covered with chicken wire or hardware cloth, with a door you can open and close by hand.

The cost depends on what you already have and what you scavenge. If you start from nothing, expect to spend $50 to $100 for a run that houses four to six chickens for several months. The frame lasts longer if you treat the wood or use naturally rot-resistant species, but untreated pine works fine for a year or two if you keep it dry.

Key Takeaways

  • A basic run frame costs $30 to $60 in lumber and takes four to six hours to build with a drill, saw, and measuring tape.
  • Hardware cloth (half-inch mesh) costs more than chicken wire but keeps out rats and weasels; chicken wire alone stops only larger predators.
  • A run 8 feet long and 4 feet wide houses four to six chickens and can be built to move by hand or left in one spot.
  • Scrap wood from construction sites, pallets, or Craigslist cuts your material cost in half if you inspect it for nails and rot first.
  • Predators dig under runs, so bury fencing 6 inches deep or lay it flat on the ground and pin it down with landscape staples.

Gather materials before you start building

You need four pieces of 2x2 lumber for the frame corners, plus cross-braces to keep the rectangle from twisting. For a run 8 feet long and 4 feet wide, buy two 8-foot lengths and two 4-foot lengths of 2x2, plus two more 8-foot lengths to cut into braces. That is roughly $25 to $35 depending on your region and whether you choose pine, cedar, or pressure-treated wood. Cedar costs more but lasts longer outdoors; pressure-treated wood is cheaper and resists rot, but some people avoid it around food animals.

For covering, buy a roll of hardware cloth (half-inch mesh) or chicken wire. A 25-foot roll of hardware cloth costs $30 to $50; chicken wire costs $15 to $25 but does not stop small predators like rats. You will also need a box of 1.5-inch exterior wood screws (about $5), a tube of exterior wood sealant or paint if you want the frame to last longer (optional, $10 to $15), and landscape staples or fencing staples to attach the wire ($5 to $10). If you plan to move the run, add two handles made from rope or metal handles ($5 to $10).

Check your garage, basement, or local Craigslist for scrap 2x2s, old pallets, or leftover fencing from someone else's project. Many construction sites give away scrap wood for free if you ask. Inspect any reclaimed wood for nails, rot, or mold before using it. Pull out nails with a pry bar and sand rough edges so they do not splinter.

Cut and assemble the frame

Lay out your four corner pieces on a flat surface and arrange them into a rectangle. Measure diagonally from corner to corner—both diagonals should be the same length, or the frame is twisted. Cut your cross-braces to fit between the long sides, roughly in the middle. Drill pilot holes (small holes to guide the screw) before driving in screws, or the wood will split. Use two 1.5-inch screws at each joint, one above the other.

If you are building a fixed run that stays in one spot, you can add a floor frame made from 2x2s laid flat on the ground. This keeps predators from digging underneath. If you want a movable run, skip the floor and instead bury the bottom edge of the wire 6 inches deep or lay the wire flat on the ground and pin it down with landscape staples every 12 inches. Predators will dig under an open-bottomed run if given the chance, so this step matters.

Stand the frame upright and check that all corners are square by measuring diagonally again. Brace the frame with temporary diagonal pieces of scrap wood clamped to two corners while you attach the wire, then remove the braces once the wire is find.

Attach wire fencing and create a door

Unroll your hardware cloth or chicken wire and lay it over the frame. Start at one corner and staple it to the frame using a staple gun or fencing staples driven by hand with a hammer. Work your way around, pulling the wire taut as you go so it does not sag. Overlap seams by at least 2 inches and staple through both layers. Trim excess wire with tin snips and fold sharp edges back on themselves so the chickens do not cut themselves.

Leave one side of the frame open for a door. Build a straightforward door frame from 2x2 scrap that fits snugly inside the opening, cover it with wire the same way, and hinge it to the frame with two exterior hinges ($8 to $12). Add a straightforward hook-and-eye latch at the bottom so the door stays closed when you are not there. Test the door to make sure it swings freely and closes completely—a gap is an invitation to predators.

If you are building a movable run, add two handles to opposite long sides so two people can carry it. Drill holes through the frame and thread rope through, or screw on metal handles. Make sure the handles are strong enough to support the weight of the frame plus wire plus a few chickens inside.

Protect against predators and weather

The most common predator problem is digging. Raccoons, foxes, and weasels will tunnel under a run if the wire does not go underground. Bury the bottom edge at least 6 inches deep, or lay the wire flat on the ground and pin it down with landscape staples every 12 inches. If you are moving the run frequently, pinning is easier than digging.

Roof the run if you live somewhere with heavy rain or snow. A straightforward sloped roof made from scrap plywood and roofing felt keeps water out and gives the chickens shade on hot days. Lean-to roofs are easiest: attach a 2x4 along one long side about 2 feet higher than the opposite side, then lay plywood across and nail it down. Tack roofing felt or tar paper over the plywood to shed water.

Paint or seal the wood if you want it to last more than a year or two. Exterior paint or wood stain costs $10 to $20 per gallon and protects against weather. Untreated wood will gray and eventually rot, especially where it touches the ground. If you skip sealing, expect to replace the frame in two to three years.

Common mistakes that cost you money or safety

Using chicken wire alone is the most expensive mistake because predators will tear through it and you will lose birds. Spend the extra $15 to $20 on hardware cloth instead. It is worth it.

Leaving gaps between the frame and the wire gives predators a way in. Staple the wire all the way around, including corners and seams. Fold sharp wire edges back so they do not poke through and injure the chickens.

Forgetting to bury or pin down the bottom edge is another costly error. Raccoons are persistent diggers and will get under an open-bottomed run within weeks. Bury the wire or pin it down before you put chickens inside.

Building the run too small wastes your effort. Chickens need at least 3 to 4 square feet of space each inside the run. A run 8 feet long and 4 feet wide gives you 32 square feet, enough for eight chickens comfortably or six if you want them to have more room to move around.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use chicken wire instead of hardware cloth?

Chicken wire stops large predators like hawks and owls but not small ones like rats, weasels, and raccoons. If you have those predators in your area, hardware cloth is worth the extra cost. Chicken wire alone works only in areas with few ground predators.

How long does an untreated wooden run last?

Untreated pine lasts one to two years before the wood touching the ground starts to rot. Pressure-treated wood lasts three to five years. Cedar lasts longer but costs more. Painting or sealing the frame extends the life by a year or two.

Do I need a roof on the run?

A roof is not required but protects the chickens from rain and gives them shade on hot days. It also makes the run harder for predators to access from above. A straightforward lean-to roof adds $15 to $30 in materials and a few hours of work.

Can I move the run by myself?

An 8-by-4-foot run weighs 40 to 60 pounds depending on the materials. One person can drag it short distances, but two people can carry it more easily if you add handles. A smaller run, 6 by 3 feet, is light enough for one person to move alone.

What should I do if predators dig under the run?

Bury the wire at least 6 inches deep, or lay it flat on the ground and pin it down with landscape staples every 12 inches. If digging has already started, dig out the tunnel, extend the wire deeper, and refill the soil. Move the run to a new spot if the ground is too hard to dig.