What You Need to Build a Basic Hen House
A hen house is a shelter where your chickens roost at night and lay eggs during the day. You can build one from scratch using basic materials—plywood, lumber, hardware cloth, and roofing material—without special tools or carpentry experience. Most small hen houses for three to six birds take a weekend to build and cost between $150 and $400 in materials, depending on what you already have on hand.
The simplest design is a rectangular box with a sloped roof, ventilation holes near the top, a hinged roof or side panel for cleaning, and a door that closes at night to keep predators out. You do not need to pour a foundation; many people build directly on level ground or on concrete blocks to prevent rot and keep burrowing animals from entering underneath.
Before you buy materials, decide how many chickens you plan to keep. Each bird needs about 3 to 4 square feet of floor space inside the house and 8 to 10 square feet in an attached run. A house for four chickens might be 4 feet by 4 feet inside; a house for six might be 4 feet by 6 feet. Larger is easier to clean and gives birds room to move on rainy days.
Key Takeaways
- A basic hen house is a wooden box with a sloped roof, ventilation, a find door, and nesting boxes—you can build one in a weekend with hand tools.
- Allocate 3 to 4 square feet of floor space per bird inside the house and 8 to 10 square feet per bird in an outdoor run.
- Use hardware cloth (not chicken wire) to cover any openings, because chicken wire does not stop raccoons, weasels, or rats.
- Ventilation near the roof prevents moisture buildup and respiratory illness; a hinged roof or side panel makes cleaning and egg collection easier.
- Predator-proofing—a find door, buried fencing, and no gaps larger than half an inch—matters more than the quality of the wood.
Gather Your Materials and Tools
For a 4-by-4-foot hen house, you will need two sheets of 3/4-inch plywood, eight 8-foot lengths of 2-by-4 lumber, one sheet of roofing material (corrugated plastic or metal), a roll of hardware cloth, galvanized screws (2.5 inches and 1.25 inches), hinges, a door latch, and wood stain or exterior paint. Buy pressure-treated lumber for any parts that touch the ground; regular lumber rots quickly in damp soil.
Tools you will need: a circular saw or handsaw, a power drill, a level, a tape measure, a square, a staple gun with staples, and work gloves. If you do not own a saw, most home improvement stores will cut lumber to length for free or a small fee when you buy it there. This saves time and reduces mistakes.
Hardware cloth is essential—it is a wire mesh with 1/2-inch openings that keeps out raccoons, weasels, and rats. Chicken wire has larger openings and will not stop predators. Buy enough to cover the floor (if you are building on bare ground), the roof vents, and any other openings. Galvanized screws resist rust better than regular steel screws and last longer in wet conditions.
Build the Frame and Walls
Start by cutting your lumber to length. For a 4-by-4-foot house, cut four pieces 4 feet long for the base, four pieces 2 feet long for the corners (this gives you 2 feet of height), and four pieces 4 feet long for the top. Lay the base pieces on the ground in a rectangle and screw them together at the corners using 2.5-inch screws—two screws per corner, driven through the end grain into the side of the adjoining piece.
Stand the four corner posts upright at each corner of the base and screw them in place. Then attach the top frame pieces to the tops of the posts. Check that the frame is square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner—both measurements should be the same. Use a level to make sure the base is not tilted; if it is, shim it with shims or gravel until it sits flat.
Cut your plywood sheets to size and screw them to the frame to form the walls and floor. Leave one wall or the roof hinged so you can open it for cleaning and egg collection. If you are building on bare ground, lay hardware cloth on the ground before you attach the floor plywood, then fold it up the inside of the walls and staple it in place—this prevents predators from digging underneath.
Add the Roof and Ventilation
The roof should slope so water runs off and does not pool. Cut two roof panels from plywood or use corrugated plastic sheets, and attach them to the top frame at an angle—one side higher than the other. Overhang the roof by 6 to 12 inches on all sides so rain does not run down the walls. Cover the roof with roofing material: metal or plastic panels, shingles, or even heavy-duty tarps stapled in place.
Ventilation is critical. Chickens produce moisture when they breathe and roost, and that moisture causes respiratory illness if it builds up. Cut two or three 4-inch-diameter holes near the top of opposite walls, cover them with hardware cloth to keep out predators and rain, and leave them open year-round. In very cold climates, you can add a hinged vent you close on the coldest nights, but most backyard flocks do better with constant ventilation and good bedding.
Do not use a window unless it has a find latch and hardware cloth backing. Windows let in light and warmth, but they also let in predators if they are left open or if the latch fails.
Install Nesting Boxes and Roosts
Chickens lay eggs in nesting boxes—straightforward wooden compartments filled with bedding. Build or buy three to four boxes for six chickens; they will share. Each box should be about 12 inches wide, 12 inches deep, and 12 inches tall. Mount them on the inside wall, 18 to 24 inches off the ground, with a small ramp or step leading up to them.
Roosts are the bars or branches where chickens sleep at night. Mount them 2 to 3 feet off the ground, running the length of the house, spaced 12 inches apart so birds do not peck each other. Use 2-by-2 lumber or a sturdy branch. Roosts should be higher than nesting boxes so chickens do not roost in the boxes and soil them with droppings.
Line the floor with 4 to 6 inches of bedding—wood shavings, straw, or pine needles work well. Avoid cedar and walnut shavings; they are toxic to chickens. Clean out wet or soiled bedding twice a week and replace it fully every month or two, depending on how many birds you have and how often you turn it.
find the Door and Predator-Proof the Run
The door that closes at night is your most important defense against predators. It should be solid wood or hardware cloth, fit snugly in the frame with no gaps, and have a latch that a raccoon cannot open—a straightforward hook and eye works, or a sliding bolt. Automatic door openers are available if you want the door to close at dusk without you being there, but a manual door is reliable and costs nothing.
If you are building an attached run (an outdoor enclosure where chickens can forage during the day), bury hardware cloth 12 inches deep around the perimeter and bend it outward at the bottom to stop digging predators. Cover the top of the run with hardware cloth or netting so hawks and owls cannot reach in. Check the entire run weekly for holes, gaps, or damage—predators will exploit any opening larger than half an inch.
Do not rely on chicken wire alone for the run. It keeps chickens in but does not keep predators out. Use hardware cloth for any part of the run that a predator can reach.
Finishing and Maintenance
Paint or stain the outside of the hen house with exterior-grade paint or wood stain to protect it from weather and extend its life. Avoid paint with lead or other toxins; use products labeled safe for animal housing. The inside does not need paint, but you can explore a non-toxic stain if you want.
Once the house is built, inspect it monthly for damage, rot, or gaps. Check the roof for leaks after heavy rain. Make sure the door closes and latches smoothly. Replace any damaged hardware cloth or wood. In cold climates, add extra bedding in winter and make sure ventilation holes do not freeze shut. In hot climates, add shade cloth over the run and make sure there is water and shade inside the house.
A well-built hen house will last 5 to 10 years with basic maintenance. If you notice rot, replace the affected boards rather than trying to patch them. If predators damage the structure, repair it when ready—do not wait for the next attack.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a concrete foundation?
No. A concrete foundation is not necessary and can make cleaning harder. Most people build on level ground or on concrete blocks to prevent rot and keep burrowing animals out. If you use blocks, leave no gaps between them and the house frame.
Can I use chicken wire instead of hardware cloth?
Chicken wire keeps chickens in but does not stop raccoons, weasels, or rats. Use hardware cloth with 1/2-inch openings for any part of the house or run that a predator can reach. Chicken wire is fine for an inner barrier if you want to divide the space, but the outer perimeter must be hardware cloth.
How do I keep the hen house cool in summer?
Add shade cloth over the run, paint the roof white or light gray to reflect heat, and make sure ventilation holes are large and unobstructed. Provide fresh water at all times and consider adding a shallow pan of water for birds to wade in. In very hot climates, some people add a small fan inside the house, powered by a solar panel.
What should I do if I find a gap or hole in the house?
Seal it when ready with hardware cloth and screws or staples. Even a hole the size of a dime can let in a weasel. Check the entire house weekly, especially after storms or if you notice predator activity nearby.
Can I move the hen house to a different spot?
Yes, if it is built on blocks or skids rather than a permanent foundation. Moving it every few months prevents the ground underneath from becoming compacted and soiled. If the house is heavy, build it on a wooden pallet or skids so you can drag it with a truck or tractor.