Flies cluster around chicken coops because of manure, spilled feed, and standing water — remove those three things and the population drops fast

Flies breed in chicken manure within 24 to 48 hours of it falling. A single pile of wet droppings can produce hundreds of flies in a week. The fastest way to break the cycle is to clean the coop floor twice a week, move the manure to a sealed bin or compost pile away from the coop, and rake out any damp bedding. Flies also breed in spilled grain and water troughs, so pick up uneaten feed at the end of each day and empty standing water daily.

The second step is to make the area around the coop less attractive. Flies need moisture to breed, so fix any leaking waterers, rake out wet spots under the roosts, and keep the ground around the coop dry. If you use a manure spreader or compost pile, place it at least 50 feet from the coop — flies will still find it, but they will not return to your birds as often.

Key Takeaways

  • Remove manure from the coop floor at least twice a week and store it in a sealed container away from the birds.
  • Pick up spilled feed every evening and empty or replace water that sits in troughs or under waterers.
  • Keep the ground around the coop dry by fixing leaks and raking out wet bedding and mud.
  • Flies breed fastest in warm, wet conditions, so summer requires more frequent cleaning than spring or fall.
  • Screens on coop windows and doors reduce fly entry but do not solve the problem if manure and feed remain inside.

Clean the coop floor and remove manure twice weekly

Chicken manure is where flies lay eggs. Removing it before those eggs hatch stops the population from growing. Twice a week, use a shovel or scraper to pull out the top layer of bedding where droppings collect — usually the area under the roosts. Put this material into a sealed plastic bin, metal trash can with a lid, or a compost pile covered with a tarp. Do not leave it in an open pile near the coop.

If you use deep litter bedding (where you add fresh material on top of old), you still need to remove the wettest, most manure-heavy layer twice weekly. The rest can stay longer, but the top 2 to 3 inches where flies breed must go. Replace it with dry wood shavings, straw, or sand. Wet bedding breeds flies faster than dry bedding, so if your coop stays damp, switch to sand — it drains quickly and flies cannot lay eggs in it.

Stop spilled feed and standing water from attracting flies

Flies breed in wet grain as readily as in manure. At the end of each day, sweep up any feed that spilled during the day and remove it from the coop. If you use a hanging feeder, check underneath it for accumulation. Wet feed that sits overnight ferments and becomes a fly breeding ground within hours.

Water is equally important. Empty or replace any water that sits in troughs or under waterers at the end of the day. If you use a nipple waterer, check for leaks — a slow drip underneath creates a wet spot where flies breed. Waterers that sit on the ground collect mud and manure; elevate them on a stand or hang them so the ground stays dry underneath.

Use screens and netting to block flies from entering the coop

Screens on windows and doors reduce the number of flies that enter, but they work best when combined with cleaning. Install 1/4-inch mesh screening on all windows and vents — regular window screen (1/8-inch mesh) lets some flies through. Make sure screens fit tightly and have no tears.

If flies are severe, consider hanging a strip of sticky fly tape inside the coop near the roosts, where flies rest during the day. Replace it weekly. Sticky tape catches flies but does not stop them from breeding, so it is a short-term tool while you work on removing manure and moisture.

Diatomaceous earth and other dust treatments for the coop floor

Food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE) is a powder made from fossilized algae. When flies walk through it, the powder damages their outer coating and they die. Dust the coop floor and nesting boxes with DE twice weekly, focusing on damp areas and under roosts. Reapply after rain or heavy watering.

DE works best as a supplement to cleaning, not a replacement. It kills adult flies but does not stop eggs from hatching in manure. Some keepers also use sand on the coop floor instead of wood shavings — sand dries faster than shavings, flies cannot lay eggs in it, and it is easier to rake out wet spots. Mix sand with a small amount of DE for extra effect.

Manage the compost pile and manure storage away from the coop

If you compost chicken manure, keep the pile at least 50 feet from the coop. Cover it with a tarp or place it in a sealed bin so flies cannot access it. A hot compost pile (above 130°F) kills fly larvae, but most backyard piles do not reach that temperature. A covered pile slows fly breeding even if it does not stop it completely.

If you store manure in a bin, make sure the lid closes tightly and there are no gaps where flies can enter. Flies will still breed inside if the manure is wet, but a sealed bin keeps them from spreading to the coop. Empty the bin weekly or when it is full, and hose it out before refilling.

Reduce flies during peak breeding season in summer

Flies breed fastest when temperatures are between 75°F and 90°F, which means summer requires more frequent cleaning than other seasons. During hot months, clean the coop floor three times a week instead of twice. Empty water troughs daily and check waterers for leaks every morning.

Summer is also when manure piles heat up and become ideal breeding grounds. If you have a large flock, consider spreading manure on pasture or garden beds more often during summer, or storing it in a sealed bin that you empty weekly. The extra effort in summer prevents a fly explosion that becomes harder to control in late summer and early fall.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will fly traps or bug zappers solve the problem?

Traps and zappers catch some flies but do not stop them from breeding in the coop. They work best after you have removed manure and moisture. A trap near the coop entrance can catch flies before they enter, but if the coop floor is still wet and full of droppings, new flies will keep appearing.

Can I use pesticide sprays in the coop where my chickens are?

Most pesticide sprays are not safe to use inside a coop where birds eat and drink. Food-grade diatomaceous earth and sand are safer options. If you use any spray, remove the chickens first, spray in the evening, and let the coop air out overnight before the birds return.

Why do flies come back even after I clean?

Flies lay eggs in manure that hatches within 24 to 48 hours. If you clean once a week, new flies are already hatching before you clean again. Twice-weekly cleaning breaks the cycle. Also check for hidden wet spots — under waterers, in corners, or under roosts — where manure collects and you might have missed.

Does sand really work better than wood shavings for fly control?

Sand drains faster than shavings and flies cannot lay eggs in it, so yes — it reduces fly breeding. The downside is that sand is heavier to clean out and does not absorb moisture as well as shavings. Many keepers use a mix: sand in the wettest areas under roosts, shavings in drier spots.

How long does it take to see fewer flies after I start cleaning more?

You should see fewer flies within one to two weeks of twice-weekly cleaning and removing standing water. The first week kills adult flies and stops new eggs from hatching. By week two, the population drops noticeably. If flies are still heavy after three weeks, check for hidden manure piles, leaking waterers, or spilled feed you might have missed.