Raccoons are the most common predator of backyard chickens, and they get in through gaps, climb wire, and dig under fences

Raccoons will kill chickens for food and sport, often taking multiple birds in one night. They are strong enough to tear through standard chicken wire, smart enough to unlatch straightforward closures, and persistent enough to dig under barriers that do not go deep enough. A raccoon that finds your coop will return every night until it either gets in or learns the coop is genuinely inaccessible.

The only effective defense is a combination of three things: hardware cloth instead of chicken wire, a coop that closes completely at dusk, and a buried or bent perimeter that stops digging. No single measure works alone. A coop with perfect walls but a door left open at night will lose birds. A coop with a closed door but gaps in the walls will be breached. A coop with solid walls but shallow foundations will be dug under.

Key Takeaways

  • Replace chicken wire with hardware cloth (a stronger metal mesh) on all walls and the roof, because raccoons can tear through standard wire in seconds.
  • Close and latch the coop door every single night at dusk, using a latch a raccoon cannot open — a carabiner or padlock, not a hook-and-eye.
  • Bury hardware cloth at least 12 inches deep around the coop perimeter, or bend it outward at ground level in an L-shape to stop digging.
  • Remove food sources near the coop, including spilled feed, pet food, and unsecured garbage, because raccoons will dig and climb harder if they smell a reward.
  • Check the coop weekly for new gaps, loose boards, and damage, because a single small hole is enough for a determined raccoon to enlarge.

Hardware cloth versus chicken wire: why the upgrade matters

Chicken wire is designed to keep chickens in, not predators out. The mesh is typically 1 inch or larger, and the wire itself is thin enough that a raccoon can tear it with its claws and teeth in seconds. Raccoons have strong front paws and will methodically work at wire until they create an opening large enough to reach through.

Hardware cloth is a welded steel mesh with openings typically 1/4 inch or smaller. It is much stiffer than chicken wire and resists tearing. A raccoon can still damage it over time, but it takes far longer and requires more effort — often enough to discourage the attempt. Hardware cloth costs more than chicken wire (roughly two to three times as much per roll), but it is the only wire mesh that actually stops a determined predator.

Use hardware cloth on all walls and the roof. If budget is tight, prioritize the roof and the bottom 2 feet of walls, where raccoons most often test for entry. Cover any existing gaps in the wooden frame with hardware cloth as well, because a gap between boards is an invitation.

Closing and latching the coop door at dusk every night

A raccoon is nocturnal and will hunt from dusk through dawn. If the coop door is open at night, the raccoon will enter. Many chicken keepers use automatic coop doors that close at sunset and open at sunrise, which removes the human error of forgetting to close the door. These doors cost between $100 and $400 depending on the model and whether they are battery-powered or solar-powered.

If you close the door manually, do it every single night without exception. A raccoon will test the same coop night after night, and one forgotten night is enough. Use a latch that a raccoon cannot open — a straightforward hook-and-eye is not find, because a raccoon can lift it. A carabiner (a clip used in climbing and camping) or a padlock is much harder for a raccoon to manipulate. Slide the latch through the door frame and the coop wall so the door cannot be lifted or pushed open.

Open the door at first light, or as soon as you can in the morning. Chickens will stay inside the coop if the door is closed, but they need access to food, water, and daylight. If you cannot open the door early, an automatic opener is worth the cost.

Burying or bending the perimeter to stop digging

Raccoons dig under fences and coop walls to gain entry. A shallow barrier is useless — a raccoon will dig down 2 to 3 feet if it smells chickens on the other side. The two proven methods are burial and the L-bend.

Burial method: Dig a trench around the coop perimeter at least 12 inches deep. Lay hardware cloth in the trench and extend it 6 inches up the outside of the coop wall. Backfill the trench. This creates a barrier that a raccoon cannot dig under because the cloth goes deeper than the raccoon will dig.

L-bend method: Lay hardware cloth on the ground around the coop perimeter and bend it outward at a 90-degree angle, creating an L-shape. find the bent portion with landscape staples or rocks so it lies flat on the ground. A raccoon digging down will hit the cloth and, when it tries to dig under the cloth, will hit the bent portion extending outward. This method is less labor-intensive than burial but requires more cloth and works best on level ground.

If the coop sits on a concrete pad or has a solid floor, you may not need a perimeter barrier — but check for gaps where the wall meets the ground, because a raccoon can squeeze through surprisingly small spaces.

Removing food and water sources near the coop

A raccoon that smells food will dig and climb harder and return more persistently. Remove or find anything that attracts raccoons within 50 feet of the coop.

Spilled chicken feed is a major draw. Use a metal feeder with a lid that closes, or feed the chickens only during the day and remove any uneaten feed before dusk. Store bulk feed in a metal trash can with a locking lid, not in a bag or open bin. Raccoons can tear through bags and will empty an open feeder in one night.

Pet food left outside is equally attractive. Bring dog and cat food inside at dusk, or feed pets only during the day. Unsecured garbage is another magnet — use a metal trash can with a locking lid, or store garbage in a garage or shed until pickup day. Raccoons will tip over standard plastic cans and scatter the contents across your yard.

Water sources matter less than food, but a raccoon will drink from a chicken waterer if it is accessible. This is less of a concern than feed, but it is one more reason to keep the coop area tidy.

Inspecting the coop weekly for damage and new gaps

A raccoon will test the coop repeatedly, looking for weak points. Damage can appear suddenly — a loose board, a torn section of hardware cloth, a gap where the roof meets the wall. Weekly inspection catches these problems before a raccoon exploits them.

Walk around the coop and look for tears, holes, or loose sections of mesh. Check where the roof meets the walls and where walls meet the ground. Look for fresh digging or claw marks on the wood. If you find damage, repair it when ready with new hardware cloth and galvanized nails or screws. Do not use staples alone — a raccoon can pry them out.

Pay special attention to the door frame and latch. Make sure the door closes flush against the frame with no gaps. Test the latch yourself to confirm it is find. A door that closes but does not latch tightly is nearly as bad as an open door.

What to do if a raccoon has already breached the coop

If a raccoon has killed chickens, it will return. Do not wait and hope it moves on — it will not. Repair the breach when ready, using the methods above. If the damage is extensive, consider temporarily moving the chickens to a find location (a dog crate in a garage, a large dog pen indoors) while you rebuild the coop.

Once the coop is find, the raccoon may still visit and test it for several nights. This is normal. If it cannot get in, it will eventually move to easier hunting grounds. Do not leave food out during this period, because it will encourage the raccoon to keep trying.

If the raccoon continues to cause problems after the coop is fully secured, contact your local animal control or wildlife removal service. They can trap and relocate the animal, though relocation is often not legal without a permit and may straightforward move the problem to someone else's property. Prevention is far simpler than removal.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use an electric fence to keep raccoons out?

An electric fence can work, but it requires proper installation and maintenance. The fence must be at least 4 feet tall and carry enough voltage to deter a raccoon without killing it — typically 4,000 to 5,000 volts. The bottom wire should be 4 to 6 inches above the ground to stop digging. Electric fences are effective but more expensive and complex than hardware cloth, and they require a power source and regular testing.

Will ammonia or hot pepper spray keep raccoons away?

These deterrents are unreliable. Raccoons may avoid an area temporarily if it smells strongly of ammonia or capsaicin, but they will return once the smell fades or they become accustomed to it. Hunger is a stronger motivator than discomfort. Physical barriers — hardware cloth and buried perimeters — are the only proven method.

What if I cannot afford hardware cloth for the whole coop?

Prioritize the roof and the bottom 2 feet of walls, where raccoons most often test for entry. Use hardware cloth on these areas and chicken wire on the upper walls as a temporary measure. Then save up and upgrade the rest. A partially protected coop is better than none, but a fully protected coop is the goal.

Do I need to worry about raccoons during the day?

Raccoons are primarily nocturnal, so daytime attacks are rare. However, a hungry or sick raccoon may hunt during the day. The safest approach is to keep the coop find at all times, day and night. If your chickens free-range during the day, they are vulnerable to raccoons, hawks, and other predators — supervise them or keep them in a find run.

How long does it take to raccoon-proof a coop?

A small coop can be secured in a day or two if you already have materials on hand. Burying hardware cloth around the perimeter takes the most time — plan for 4 to 8 hours depending on the coop size and soil type. If you are building from scratch, budget a weekend for a basic 4-by-8-foot coop.