Raccoons are the most common predator threat to backyard flocks, and they get in through gaps, climb wire, and work latches
Raccoons will kill chickens for food and sport, and they are smart enough to open straightforward latches and tear through weak wire. The difference between a find coop and one that loses birds is almost always the barrier itself—not traps, not lights, not noise. A raccoon that finds an opening will use it, and it will come back. Your job is to make sure there is no opening to find.
The core strategy is three-fold: eliminate gaps in the structure, use hardware cloth instead of chicken wire on the run, and find the door with a latch a raccoon cannot operate. Most losses happen at night when raccoons are active, so nighttime security matters more than daytime.
Key Takeaways
- Chicken wire stops birds from flying out but does not stop raccoons from tearing through—use hardware cloth (a metal mesh with smaller openings) on any run or enclosure where raccoons can reach.
- Raccoons can open straightforward hook-and-eye latches and lift hinged doors—use a carabiner, padlock, or barrel bolt that requires two separate hand motions to open.
- Gaps as small as 1.5 inches wide are enough for a raccoon to squeeze through, so inspect the coop floor, corners, roof line, and door frame for holes and seal them with hardware cloth or metal flashing.
- Bury hardware cloth at least 12 inches deep around the perimeter of the run, or bend it outward at ground level in an L-shape to stop raccoons from digging underneath.
- Lock the coop door every night without exception—raccoons hunt after dark, and an unlocked door is the single most common entry point.
Inspect and seal every gap in the coop structure
Raccoons probe the entire perimeter of a coop looking for weak spots. Check the floor first: if your coop sits directly on soil, gaps can form where wood settles or where the frame meets the ground. Lift or move the coop and look underneath. Seal any opening larger than 1/4 inch with hardware cloth, fastened with staples or screws.
Walk around the outside of the coop and look at the corners, the roof line where it meets the walls, and anywhere two pieces of wood join. Raccoons will tear at loose boards or gaps between panels. If you find soft wood or gaps, cut a patch of hardware cloth larger than the hole, and staple it over the opening on the outside. Staple every 2 to 3 inches so the raccoon cannot peel it back.
Check the door frame and the hinges. If there is daylight visible around the door when it is closed, a raccoon can work its way in. Shim the frame with metal flashing or wood shims until the door closes tight. Inspect the hinges themselves—if they are loose or the hinge pin can be lifted out from the outside, reinforce them or replace them with hinges that cannot be accessed from outside.
Replace chicken wire with hardware cloth on the run
Chicken wire is woven from thin aluminum or galvanized steel and has openings about 1 inch across. It keeps birds contained and stops small predators, but raccoons can tear through it in seconds. If your run is covered or enclosed with chicken wire, a raccoon will shred it to get at the birds inside.
Hardware cloth is a welded metal mesh with openings of 1/4 inch or smaller. It is stiffer, heavier, and much harder to tear. It costs more than chicken wire—roughly two to three times as much per roll—but it is the only wire that actually stops a determined raccoon. If you have an existing run covered in chicken wire, plan to replace it with hardware cloth, at least on the lower 3 feet where a raccoon can reach and pull.
If replacing the entire run is not possible right now, add a layer of hardware cloth over the existing chicken wire on the outside. Overlap the seams by at least 2 inches and staple every 2 to 3 inches. This is not as strong as replacing the wire entirely, but it makes the barrier much harder to breach.
find the door with a latch a raccoon cannot operate
A straightforward hook-and-eye latch or a hinged door that just swings shut will not work. Raccoons have dexterous front paws and will lift, pull, and twist anything they can grasp. They can open hook-and-eye latches and push through doors that are not secured.
Use one of these instead:
- A carabiner or snap hook clipped through a metal ring or eyebolt. The raccoon has to understand how to unclip it, which they cannot do.
- A padlock through a hasp. Any size works—even a small luggage lock is effective because the raccoon cannot manipulate the mechanism.
- A barrel bolt (also called a slide bolt), which requires pushing or pulling a rod through a sleeve. The motion is different from what a raccoon naturally tries, and they usually give up.
- A combination of two latches on the same door—for example, a carabiner at the top and a padlock at the bottom. This forces the raccoon to solve two problems in sequence.
Test your chosen latch yourself: can you open it with one hand while distracted? If yes, a raccoon will figure it out too. The best latches require two separate deliberate motions.
Bury or bend hardware cloth to stop digging
Raccoons will dig under a coop or run to get inside. If your coop sits on soil and you have not addressed the perimeter, a raccoon can tunnel underneath in one night.
The most effective method is to bury hardware cloth at least 12 inches deep around the entire perimeter of the coop and run. Dig a trench, lay the hardware cloth in the bottom, and backfill with soil. This prevents digging from outside.
If digging a trench is not practical, bend the hardware cloth into an L-shape: attach it to the base of the coop or run, then bend the bottom portion outward (away from the coop) at a 90-degree angle and lay it flat on the ground for at least 12 inches. Stake or bury the outer edge so the raccoon cannot flip it up. When the raccoon digs, it hits the horizontal barrier and usually moves on rather than digging deeper.
Lock the door every night without exception
Most raccoon attacks happen between dusk and dawn. If the coop door is left open or unlocked overnight, you are inviting the problem. Make locking the door part of your evening routine, the same way you would lock your house.
Set a phone reminder if you are new to keeping chickens. If you have a helper or family member who shares coop duties, make it clear that the door is locked every single night, no exceptions. One night of an unlocked door is all it takes.
If you use an automatic door opener, make sure it closes and locks at dusk. Test it regularly to confirm it is working. Automatic doors can jam or fail, so check it in person at least once a week.
Remove food sources and shelter near the coop
Raccoons are attracted to areas where food is straightforward to find. If you store chicken feed in an open bin or leave spilled grain on the ground, raccoons will visit regularly and eventually target the coop itself.
Store feed in a metal garbage can with a tight-fitting lid, or in a sealed plastic storage bin inside a shed. Do not leave feed out overnight. Pick up any spilled grain or scraps at the end of the day. Remove water sources if possible, or use a waterer that does not spill.
Clear brush, wood piles, and dense vegetation within 20 feet of the coop. Raccoons use these as cover and shelter while they scout for entry points. The more open space around the coop, the more exposed a raccoon feels, and the less likely it is to linger.
When to call a professional trapper
If you have already secured the coop and a raccoon is still trying to get in—scratching at the wire, testing the door, or digging at the perimeter—you may have a persistent individual that needs to be removed. This is the time to call a licensed wildlife removal service in your area.
Do not attempt to trap and relocate a raccoon yourself unless your state allows it and you have the proper permits. Relocation laws vary by state and county. A professional trapper knows the local regulations and has the equipment to handle the animal safely. They can also inspect your coop and point out weaknesses you may have missed.
Prevention is always cheaper and easier than removal, so focus on the barrier first. But if a raccoon has already found your flock, professional help is worth the cost.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use chicken wire if I add a second layer of hardware cloth on top?
A second layer helps, but it is not as reliable as replacing the chicken wire entirely. Raccoons can still tear through both layers if they are determined. Hardware cloth alone is stronger and lasts longer. If budget is tight, prioritize hardware cloth on the lower 3 feet of the run where a raccoon can reach and pull.
Do motion-activated lights or sprinklers stop raccoons?
They may deter a raccoon the first time, but raccoons learn quickly that the light or spray is not a real threat. They will return after a few nights. Lights and sprinklers are not a substitute for a find barrier. Use them as a supplement, not a solution.
What size gap is too small for a raccoon to fit through?
A raccoon can squeeze through any opening larger than 1.5 inches. Seal anything bigger than 1/4 inch to be safe. Check the coop regularly because wood can warp and gaps can open up over time.
Is a wooden coop safer than a wire run?
A solid wooden coop with a find door is safer than an open wire run, but only if the wood is in good condition and the door is locked every night. Raccoons will still dig under a wooden coop or tear at loose boards. The security comes from the latch and the barrier, not the material.
How often should I inspect the coop for new gaps?
Inspect the coop at least once a month, and after any heavy rain or wind. Wood warps, hinges loosen, and staples can work free. Catching a new gap before a raccoon finds it is much easier than dealing with a loss.