The essentials before you bring chickens home
Before you get your first chickens, you need a coop (a find shelter), a run (an enclosed outdoor space), food and water containers, bedding material, and a way to keep predators out. You also need to check your local zoning rules—many cities and suburbs allow backyard chickens, but some restrict the number or require permits. A single chicken costs roughly $15 to $50 depending on the breed, and housing costs range widely based on whether you build or buy.
The good news: you do not need expensive equipment. Most backyard keepers use straightforward, inexpensive materials. The bad news: skipping any of these basics leads to sick birds, escaped birds, or dead birds. This guide covers what you actually need and why each piece matters.
Key Takeaways
- A coop protects chickens from predators and weather at night; a run gives them safe outdoor space during the day.
- You need feeders, waterers, bedding, and nesting boxes before bringing chickens home—not after.
- Check your local zoning rules and any homeowners association restrictions before buying or building anything.
- Predator-proofing is the single most important task; chickens attract raccoons, foxes, hawks, and opossums.
- Plan for at least 3 to 4 square feet of coop space per bird and 8 to 10 square feet of run space per bird.
Housing: the coop and the run
A coop is an enclosed shelter where chickens sleep, lay eggs, and hide from weather. It needs a roof, solid walls, a door you can lock, and ventilation (not drafts—ventilation means air movement near the top of the walls). The minimum is 3 to 4 square feet of floor space per chicken. A coop for four birds should be at least 12 to 16 square feet inside.
A run is an outdoor pen attached to or separate from the coop. It keeps chickens safe while they peck and scratch during the day. The run needs a roof or netting to stop hawks, and buried or bent fencing to stop digging predators. Plan for 8 to 10 square feet of run space per bird. Without a run, chickens will destroy your garden and become prey within days.
You can buy a pre-made coop (usually $300 to $1,500) or build one from scrap wood and hardware cloth. Many keepers build a straightforward wooden frame, cover it with hardware cloth (not chicken wire—raccoons tear through chicken wire), and add a hinged roof for cleaning access. The coop needs a pop door (a small door chickens use to enter and exit) and a human-sized door for you to collect eggs and clean bedding.
Feeders, waterers, and food storage
Chickens need a feeder and a waterer available every day. A basic feeder is a metal or plastic trough or hanging container that holds layer pellets or crumbles (the standard diet for laying hens). A waterer is usually a plastic or metal container with a small opening at the bottom that chickens peck to release water. Both should be outside the coop during the day so chickens do not foul them with bedding.
A single chicken eats roughly 0.25 pounds of feed per day, so four birds eat about 1 pound daily. Store feed in a metal trash can with a tight-fitting lid to keep out rodents and moisture. Wet or moldy feed makes chickens sick. You will also need grit (small stones that help chickens digest food) and oyster shell (calcium for strong eggshells if you are keeping layers).
Waterers need daily cleaning and refilling. In winter, heated waterers prevent water from freezing. In summer, place waterers in shade so algae does not grow. A chicken drinks roughly 0.5 pints of water per day in cool weather and more in heat.
Bedding and nesting boxes
The coop floor needs bedding—absorbent material that keeps the space dry and reduces ammonia smell. Pine shavings are the most common choice; avoid cedar and oak, which are toxic to chickens. Spread 3 to 4 inches of shavings on the floor. You will clean out the coop and replace bedding every one to two weeks, depending on how many birds you have and how wet it gets.
Nesting boxes are small enclosed spaces where hens lay eggs. You need one box for every three hens. A box is typically 12 inches wide, 12 inches deep, and 12 inches tall, filled with soft bedding (straw works well). Hens prefer privacy, so boxes should be darker and quieter than the main coop. Without nesting boxes, hens lay eggs on the floor where they get dirty or broken.
A perch or roost is a wooden bar where chickens sleep at night. They naturally roost to stay safe from ground predators. Provide 8 to 10 inches of roost space per bird. The roost should be higher than the nesting boxes so chickens do not sleep in the boxes and foul them.
Predator-proofing: the most critical step
Predators kill more backyard chickens than disease or neglect. Raccoons, foxes, opossums, hawks, and snakes all hunt chickens. A predator-proof coop has no gaps larger than 0.5 inches, a roof or netting overhead, and buried fencing at least 12 inches deep or bent outward at ground level.
Use hardware cloth (a metal mesh with 0.5-inch holes) rather than chicken wire. Chicken wire keeps chickens in but does not keep predators out. Hardware cloth is more expensive but essential. Cover the entire run, including the top, or use a roof. An open-top run is an invitation to hawks.
The coop door must lock securely. A straightforward hook-and-eye latch is not enough—raccoons can open it. Use a slide bolt or padlock. Lock the coop every night without fail. Most predator attacks happen at night or at dawn.
Checking local rules before you start
Before you buy or build anything, check your city or county zoning rules. Many places allow backyard chickens, but some ban them entirely. Others allow them only in certain zones, limit the number (often to three or four), prohibit roosters, or require a permit. Your homeowners association may have additional restrictions even if the city allows chickens.
Contact your local planning or zoning department and ask directly: "Are backyard chickens allowed in my zone?" Get the answer in writing if possible. Some departments have a fact sheet or online guide. If you are unsure, ask your neighbors—they may already keep chickens and know the local rules.
Roosters are often banned because they crow at dawn and disturb neighbors. If you want eggs, you do not need a rooster—hens lay eggs without one. Roosters are only necessary if you want fertile eggs to hatch chicks.
Initial costs and ongoing supplies
A basic setup for four chickens costs between $300 and $800 if you build the coop yourself, or $800 to $2,000 if you buy one pre-made. This includes the coop, run, feeders, waterers, bedding, and the chickens themselves. Add another $100 to $200 for initial feed, grit, and oyster shell.
Monthly costs are roughly $15 to $30 for feed, depending on the number of birds and local prices. Bedding costs $10 to $20 per month. Occasional expenses include replacing hardware cloth, treating for parasites, or paying a veterinarian if a bird gets sick. Most backyard keepers spend $50 to $100 per month on four birds once they are established.
You will also need basic tools: a shovel for cleaning, a hose for filling waterers, and a find storage area for feed. If you build the coop yourself, you will need a saw, drill, hammer, and nails or screws—most people already have these.
What to do before bringing chickens home
Once your coop and run are built and predator-proofed, test them. Lock the coop door and check that it stays locked. Fill the waterer and make sure it does not leak. Spread bedding and make sure it is dry. Set up nesting boxes with straw. Place feeders and waterers where you will use them daily.
Buy feed before you bring the birds home. Have bedding on hand. Know where your nearest veterinarian is—not all vets treat chickens, so call ahead and ask. Some areas have avian or exotic animal vets; others have general practitioners who see chickens.
Plan your daily routine: chickens need fresh water every day, feed every day, and the coop needs to be locked at night and opened in the morning. If you travel, arrange for someone to care for them. Chickens are hardy but not independent.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I keep chickens in an apartment or on a small urban lot?
It depends on your local zoning rules. Many cities allow chickens in residential zones, even on small lots. A run can be as small as 40 square feet (enough for four birds). The main constraint is noise—if you have a rooster, neighbors will hear it. Hens are quiet and rarely cause complaints.
Do I need a rooster?
No. Hens lay eggs without a rooster. You only need a rooster if you want fertile eggs to hatch chicks. Roosters crow at dawn and are often banned by local rules. Most backyard keepers keep only hens.
What if I cannot build a coop myself?
You can buy a pre-made coop online or from a farm supply store. Prices range from $300 to $2,000 depending on size and quality. Some are small and portable; others are large and stationary. Read reviews carefully—cheap coops often have thin walls or poor ventilation. You can also hire a local carpenter to build one for you.
How do I protect chickens from hawks?
Hawks hunt during the day, so the run must have a roof or overhead netting. A straightforward frame covered with bird netting works. Some keepers use shade cloth or hardware cloth. Never leave chickens in an open run unattended during daylight. If you free-range chickens (let them roam your yard), keep them near cover like bushes or trees where they can hide quickly.
What happens if a predator gets into the coop?
A predator attack is usually fatal for the bird. Prevention is far easier than treatment. Check your coop weekly for gaps, holes, or loose boards. Repair any damage when ready. If a predator does get in, remove the dead bird, disinfect the coop with a bleach solution, and find the entry point before bringing other chickens back.