The basics: what every chicken run needs

A chicken run needs four things to function: bedding on the floor, a roosting bar or perch for sleeping, nesting boxes for laying, and feeders and waterers. Without these, your chickens will be uncomfortable, stressed, and more prone to illness. The run itself keeps them safe from predators; what you put inside keeps them healthy and productive.

The order matters. Start with bedding as your foundation, add the structural pieces (roosts and nest boxes), then place feeders and waterers where they won't get soiled. A run that looks crowded is often just one that has items placed inefficiently.

Key Takeaways

  • Bedding should be 3 to 4 inches deep and replaced weekly or when visibly wet; wood shavings, straw, and sand all work, but avoid cedar and treated wood.
  • Roosting bars should be 2 to 3 feet off the ground and positioned so droppings fall onto bedding below, not onto other chickens or equipment.
  • Nesting boxes need one box per three to four hens, filled with soft bedding, and should be darker and lower than the roosting area to discourage sleeping in them.
  • Feeders and waterers must be elevated slightly so chickens cannot scratch bedding into them or stand in the water.
  • Ventilation holes and a predator-proof door are structural, but the items inside should not block airflow or create damp corners where disease spreads.

Bedding: depth, material, and replacement schedule

Bedding absorbs moisture from droppings and urine, keeps the floor insulated, and gives chickens something natural to scratch in. Spread it 3 to 4 inches deep across the entire floor. If it is shallower, wet patches will reach the ground quickly; if deeper, it becomes hard to keep clean and wastes material.

Wood shavings (pine or aspen, not cedar) are the most common choice because they absorb well and are straightforward to replace. Straw works but compacts faster and can harbor mold if it gets damp. Sand drains quickly and is excellent in wet climates, though it is heavier to move. Some keepers use a combination—sand on the bottom layer for drainage, shavings on top for comfort.

Check bedding twice a week. If you see wet patches or smell ammonia, replace the soiled section when ready. A full replacement usually happens weekly in a small run, less often in a larger one with good ventilation. Wet bedding causes respiratory illness and foot problems, so this is not optional maintenance.

Roosting bars and perches for nighttime

Chickens sleep on roosts, not on the ground. A roost is a horizontal bar or branch, typically 2 to 3 feet off the ground, where chickens grip with their feet and settle for the night. Without one, they huddle on the floor and soil themselves and each other.

Use a wooden dowel, branch, or 2x2 timber. The bar should be 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter so a chicken's toes can wrap around it comfortably. Space multiple roosts 12 inches apart horizontally and 8 to 12 inches apart vertically so chickens do not roost directly above one another—droppings fall straight down, and you want them landing on bedding, not on another bird.

Position roosts so they are higher than the nesting boxes. Chickens naturally roost at the highest point available, so if nest boxes are higher, hens will sleep in them and soil the eggs. Angle the roost slightly so chickens do not slide off, and make sure there is clear space below for bedding to catch droppings.

Nesting boxes for laying hens

Hens need a quiet, semi-dark space to lay eggs. A nesting box is a straightforward enclosed structure—a wooden crate, a plastic storage bin with the front cut out, or a purpose-built nest box. The interior should be roughly 12 inches wide, 12 inches deep, and 12 inches tall. One box per three to four hens is standard; if you have fewer hens, one box is enough.

Fill each box with soft bedding: straw, wood shavings, or shredded paper. Change it when it becomes soiled or wet. Position boxes lower than the roosting bars and in the darkest corner of the run. A roof or overhang over the boxes helps—hens prefer privacy, and shade keeps eggs cooler on hot days.

If a hen starts roosting in a nest box instead of on the bar, the box is too high or the roost is too low. Adjust the heights. Hens sleeping in boxes soil eggs and waste nesting space, so this is worth fixing early.

Feeders and waterers: placement and elevation

Chickens need constant access to feed and fresh water. Use a feeder (a trough or hanging container) and a waterer (a gravity-fed drinker or trough). Elevate both slightly—about 6 to 8 inches off the ground—so chickens cannot scratch bedding into the feed or stand in the water and contaminate it.

Place feeders and waterers away from nesting boxes and roosting areas. Chickens will scratch and peck around them, so position them where spilled feed and water will not soak the bedding in sleeping areas. A corner or along one wall works well. If your run has a covered area, put waterers there to keep water cooler and cleaner.

Check water daily, even in cool weather. Algae grows in standing water, and chickens will refuse to drink from a dirty waterer. In winter, water may freeze; in summer, it heats up quickly. Refill or replace it once a day at minimum. Feed should be stored in a sealed container outside the run to keep it dry and away from rodents.

Dust baths and enrichment items

Chickens dust bathe to keep their feathers clean and control parasites. Provide a shallow container or a designated corner filled with dry sand, wood ash, or a mix of both. A 2-foot-square area is enough for a small flock. Refresh it monthly or when it becomes compacted.

Beyond the essentials, chickens benefit from objects to peck and scratch: a log, branches, or a ball hung from the roof. These reduce boredom and aggression, especially in a confined run. They do not take up much space and can be rotated or replaced as they wear out.

Ventilation and how it affects what you put inside

Good ventilation prevents moisture buildup, which damages bedding and causes respiratory illness. This affects how you arrange items inside: do not block vents with feeders, waterers, or bedding piles. Keep the center of the run clear so air can circulate, and position larger items (roosts, nest boxes) against walls.

If your run feels damp or smells of ammonia, the problem is usually too much bedding in one spot, a waterer that leaks, or blocked vents. Rearrange items to improve airflow before adding more bedding or replacing it more often.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use cedar shavings for bedding?

No. Cedar and pine contain oils that irritate chickens' respiratory systems. Use aspen or pine shavings instead. If you have cedar on hand, it is not safe for chicken bedding.

How often should I clean the entire run?

Remove soiled bedding twice a week and replace the top layer weekly. A full clean-out—removing all bedding and scrubbing surfaces—happens every four to eight weeks depending on flock size and run ventilation. More frequent full cleans prevent disease buildup.

What if my chickens are sleeping in the nesting boxes instead of on the roost?

The nest boxes are too high or the roost is too low. Lower the boxes or raise the roost so the roost is clearly the highest sleeping spot. Chickens naturally prefer the highest perch, so they will move once you fix the height difference.

Do I need a roost if my run has a solid floor?

Yes. A solid floor does not replace a roost. Chickens sleep on roosts by instinct, and they will huddle on the ground only if no roost is available—which leads to stress, injury, and soiled feathers. A roost is essential regardless of floor type.

Can I use newspaper or cardboard as bedding?

Newspaper and cardboard absorb moisture poorly and break down quickly when wet. They are better used as a base layer under shavings or straw, not as the main bedding. Stick with wood shavings, straw, or sand for reliable absorption and durability.