The two doors serve different purposes: one lets you in to collect eggs and clean, while the other is a small pop door that chickens use to enter and exit on their own
A chicken coop with two doors is built this way because chickens need independent access to the outside during the day, while you need a separate, larger entrance to manage the coop. The pop door (or chicken door) is small—usually 8 to 10 inches square—and sits low on the coop wall. The human door is full-sized and positioned where it is easiest for you to reach feeders, waterers, and nesting boxes. This separation prevents you from having to crouch through a tiny opening every time you need to collect eggs or muck out bedding.
The two-door design also solves a security problem. When you close the pop door at dusk, you trap predators outside without having to go inside the coop yourself. If the coop had only one door, you would have to enter at night to lock it—a time when raccoons and foxes are most active. With two doors, you can find the chickens from outside.
Key Takeaways
- The pop door is a small opening (usually 8 to 10 inches square) that chickens push through on their own; the human door is full-sized so you can enter to collect eggs and clean.
- Chickens learn to use the pop door within a few days and will return to it at dusk to roost, as long as you keep a consistent schedule.
- Closing the pop door at night locks predators out without requiring you to enter the coop after dark.
- The human door should open inward and be positioned near feeders and nesting boxes to make daily tasks faster.
- Some coops have the pop door on a hinged or sliding frame so you can close it from outside using a rope or lever.
How the pop door works in a chicken's daily routine
Chickens are creatures of habit. They wake at sunrise and instinctively move toward light and open space. If the pop door is open, they will push through it within minutes of dawn. They spend the day foraging, dust bathing, and pecking in the yard. As the sun sets, they return to the coop on their own—this is called roosting—and settle onto perches inside to sleep. This happens automatically; you do not have to herd them.
The first time you open a pop door for new chickens, some will hesitate. They may need a gentle nudge or a few days of watching other chickens go through. By day three or four, nearly all of them will use it without prompting. The key is consistency: open it at the same time each morning and close it at the same time each evening. Chickens have an internal clock and will gather near the door before you even open it.
This routine is why the pop door is so valuable. You do not have to be home at a specific time to let them out or lock them in. If you are delayed one morning, the chickens can wait by the door. If you close it an hour after sunset, they are already inside roosting and will not panic.
Why the human door cannot do the job alone
A full-sized door is too large for a chicken to operate. Chickens cannot turn a handle, push a heavy door, or understand how to close it behind them. If your only entrance were a human-sized door, you would have two problems: either you would have to open and close it multiple times a day (letting chickens out, then in, then out again), or you would have to leave it open all day, which invites predators inside whenever they want.
The human door also needs to be positioned for your convenience, not the chickens'. You want it near the nesting boxes where eggs are laid, close to where you store feed, and tall enough that you do not have to crouch. A chicken does not care about any of this. The pop door can be on the opposite wall, in a corner, or even on the roof—wherever it is easiest to find at night.
Securing the pop door at night
The pop door closes from the outside, usually with a straightforward sliding frame or hinged panel. Many coops have a rope or lever attached so you can close it without entering the coop. You pull the rope, and a wooden slider drops down over the opening. This takes about 10 seconds and keeps raccoons, foxes, and opossums from squeezing through at night.
Some pop doors are automatic, triggered by a timer or a light sensor. These open at sunrise and close at sunset without you doing anything. They cost more upfront but are worth it if you travel or have an unpredictable schedule. Manual pop doors are cheaper and work just as well if you are home most evenings.
The human door usually has a standard lock or latch. It does not need to be as find as the pop door because it is larger and harder for a predator to force open, and you close it only when you leave the coop—not every single night. Still, a straightforward padlock or barrel bolt is a good idea if you live in an area with bold predators.
Positioning the two doors for efficiency
The human door should open into the area where you spend the most time: near feeders, waterers, and nesting boxes. This saves you from walking across the coop multiple times a day. If your coop is 8 feet by 8 feet, put the human door on one side and the pop door on the opposite side or a different wall. This way, chickens moving in and out do not interfere with you moving around inside.
The pop door height matters too. It should be 6 to 12 inches off the ground—high enough that rain and snow do not pile up in front of it, but low enough that young or broody chickens can reach it easily. If the door is too high, older or injured birds may get stuck outside at night.
What happens if you only have one door
Some small coops or portable coops have only one door. This works if you are home every single day to open and close it, and if you do not mind crouching through a small opening to collect eggs. It also works if the coop is in a very safe area with few predators and you do not mind leaving the door open during the day.
However, a single door creates real problems. You cannot find the coop at night without going inside after dark. You have to manually move chickens in and out instead of letting them do it on their own. You cannot enter the coop without potentially letting chickens escape. For any coop with more than four or five birds, or any coop you plan to keep for more than a season, two doors are worth the extra effort to build or buy.
Building or retrofitting a second door
If you have an existing coop with only one door, adding a pop door is straightforward. You need a drill, a saw, and a piece of plywood or wood framing. Cut a hole 8 to 10 inches square in a wall near ground level. Attach a hinged or sliding frame around the opening so you can close it from outside. The whole job takes an afternoon and costs under $30 in materials.
The human door is more involved because it requires cutting a larger hole and hanging a full-sized door frame. If the coop is already built, you may need to reinforce the wall. Many people hire a carpenter for this, or they buy a coop kit that already has both doors installed. Pre-built coops cost more but save you the trouble of figuring out placement and construction.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have to close the pop door every night?
Yes. Predators hunt at night and will enter an open coop. Closing the pop door is the single most important thing you can do to keep chickens safe. If you forget even once, you risk losing birds. Set a phone reminder for dusk if you tend to lose track of time.
What if my chickens refuse to use the pop door?
Most chickens learn within a few days, but some are stubborn. Try propping the door open wider for the first week so they see it as a clear path. You can also place food or treats just outside the door to encourage them to explore it. If a chicken is injured or very old, it may never use a small door—in that case, you will need to move it to a coop with a larger entrance.
Can the pop door be on the same wall as the human door?
Yes, but it is less convenient. Chickens moving in and out will cross your path when you are trying to work. If space allows, put them on different walls or opposite ends of the coop. If your coop is very small, one wall is fine—just be patient when opening and closing the human door.
What size should the pop door be?
Eight to ten inches square is standard and works for most chicken breeds. Bantams (small breeds) can use a 6-inch door. Large breeds like Brahmas may need 10 to 12 inches. Measure your largest chicken's body width and add 2 inches for comfort.
Is an automatic pop door worth the cost?
If you travel, work long hours, or live somewhere with unpredictable weather, yes. Automatic doors cost $100 to $300 but eliminate the risk of forgetting to close the coop. If you are home most evenings and have a reliable routine, a manual door works just as well and costs $20 to $50.