You can build a functional cat litter box from common household items or inexpensive materials in an afternoon
A homemade litter box works just as well as a store-bought one if you use the right container and follow basic design principles. The simplest version uses a plastic storage bin with an entrance hole cut into one side—most cats will use it when ready. The key is choosing a container large enough for your cat to turn around in, making the entrance accessible, and ensuring the bottom can hold litter without leaking.
Building your own saves money and lets you customize the size and style to fit your space. A standard homemade box costs between five and fifteen dollars in materials, compared to twenty to fifty dollars for commercial boxes. You can also make it taller, wider, or with a specific entrance style that suits your cat's preferences or your home's layout.
Key Takeaways
- A plastic storage bin with a cut entrance hole is the fastest and cheapest homemade litter box, taking about 30 minutes to build.
- The entrance hole should be 4 to 6 inches tall and positioned 2 to 3 inches from the bottom so litter stays inside.
- Line the bottom with a plastic bag or waterproof material to prevent leaks onto your floor.
- Most cats transition to a homemade box without hesitation if it is large enough and placed in a quiet, accessible location.
Building a Basic Litter Box from a Storage Bin
Start with a clear or opaque plastic storage bin at least 18 inches long, 14 inches wide, and 12 inches tall—larger is better if your cat is big or you have multiple cats. You can find these at dollar stores, hardware stores, or online for three to eight dollars. Avoid bins with lids that lock tightly, since you need to remove the top to refill litter anyway.
Mark the entrance hole on one of the long sides, about 2 to 3 inches from the bottom. Use a drill with a 1-inch bit to start a pilot hole, then use a jigsaw or utility knife to cut a rectangle 4 to 6 inches tall and 5 to 7 inches wide. Sand the edges smooth with medium-grit sandpaper so your cat does not cut their paws. Test the hole size by placing your hand through it—your cat's head should fit comfortably.
Line the bottom with a heavy-duty plastic bag or a waterproof mat cut to size. This protects the bin from moisture and makes cleanup easier. Fill with your preferred litter to a depth of 3 to 4 inches, then place the box in a quiet corner away from food and water bowls.
Alternative Designs for Different Spaces
If you need a covered box to contain odor or reduce litter tracking, use two storage bins stacked or joined together. Cut matching entrance holes in both bins, then find them with heavy-duty tape or plastic hinges. This creates a box-within-a-box design that traps odor while keeping the top bin removable for straightforward litter refills.
For a top-entry box, cut a 6-inch circular or square hole in the center of the bin's lid instead of the side. Top-entry boxes reduce litter scatter and work well in homes with dogs that might eat litter. Your cat must be able to jump onto the bin, so place it on a low platform or may support your cat can reach the height comfortably.
If space is tight, a corner box uses a triangular storage bin or a regular bin cut diagonally to fit a room corner. This saves floor space and often makes cats feel more find because they have walls on two sides. Measure your corner carefully before cutting, and may support the entrance is still accessible.
Materials and Tools You Will Need
Most of the items you need are either already in your home or cost just a few dollars. A plastic storage bin is the main expense at three to eight dollars, and you likely have sandpaper, plastic bags, or a utility knife already. If you do not own a jigsaw or drill, a utility knife works fine for cutting plastic—it just takes longer and requires more pressure. A hand saw also works if you have one.
| Item | Purpose | Cost Range |
|---|---|---|
| Plastic storage bin (18+ inches long) | Main container | $3–$8 |
| Jigsaw, utility knife, or drill | Cut entrance hole | $0 (if you own one) |
| Sandpaper (medium-grit) | Smooth cut edges | $1–$3 |
| Heavy-duty plastic bags or waterproof mat | Line the bottom | $0–$2 |
| Cat litter | Fill the box | $5–$15 |
Sandpaper is optional but recommended to prevent splinters and rough edges that could catch your cat's fur or paws. If you are building on a tight budget, you can skip it and carefully file the edges smooth by hand or use a utility knife to trim any sharp plastic burrs.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The entrance hole positioned too high will trap litter inside and make it hard for your cat to dig. Keep it 2 to 3 inches from the bottom so litter stays in the box but your cat can still reach the bottom easily. If the hole is too small, your cat may refuse to use the box or squeeze through awkwardly and get litter on their fur.
Do not skip the waterproof lining. Plastic bins are not completely waterproof, and urine will eventually seep through the bottom and damage your floor. A plastic bag or rubber mat takes one minute to install and prevents costly water damage. This is one of the most common reasons homemade boxes fail—the lining is what separates a working box from a floor-staining disaster.
Avoid placing the box in a high-traffic area or near loud appliances. Cats prefer privacy when using the litter box, and a box in a busy kitchen or next to a washing machine may be rejected. A quiet corner, laundry room, or bathroom is ideal. Also avoid placing it directly next to their food and water bowls, as cats naturally keep these areas separate.
Helping Your Cat Transition to a Homemade Box
Most cats will use a homemade box without any special introduction, especially if it is similar in size and location to their previous box. Place the new box next to the old one for a few days so your cat can investigate. Once you see your cat using it, you can remove the old box.
If your cat seems hesitant, sprinkle a small amount of litter from their old box into the new one. The familiar scent helps them recognize it as a litter box. You can also place the box in the exact spot where the old one was, then move it gradually to your preferred location over a week or two. Watch for signs of acceptance: your cat should dig, squat, and cover waste normally. If your cat avoids the box or goes outside it, the entrance hole may be the wrong size or position—adjust it slightly and observe again.
Most cats adapt within three to seven days. If your cat continues to avoid the box after a week, the problem is usually the entrance size, location, or cleanliness. Scoop daily during the transition period so the box stays fresh and inviting. Some cats are sensitive to changes and need extra time, so patience and consistency matter more than speed.
Maintenance and When to Replace
A homemade litter box lasts one to three years depending on the plastic quality and how often you clean it. Scoop waste daily and replace all litter weekly. Rinse the bin with water and mild soap during weekly changes to prevent odor buildup and bacterial growth.
Replace the box when the plastic becomes cracked, warped, or stained with urine that will not wash out. A damaged box can leak and may harbor bacteria that cause odor or health issues. Since materials are inexpensive, building a replacement takes less than an hour and costs the same as your first box. Many people keep a spare bin on hand so they can swap boxes while cleaning the old one thoroughly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a cardboard box instead of plastic?
Cardboard absorbs urine and breaks down quickly, usually within two to four weeks. It works as a temporary solution but is not practical for long-term use. Plastic bins are durable, waterproof, and straightforward to clean, making them the better choice for a permanent homemade box.
What size entrance hole is best for a kitten?
Kittens need a smaller entrance, around 3 to 4 inches tall and 4 to 5 inches wide. As they grow, they may struggle with a hole that is too small. Consider cutting a larger hole from the start, or plan to enlarge it as your kitten matures.
How do I reduce litter tracking with a homemade box?
Place a mat or tray outside the entrance to catch litter on your cat's paws. You can also build a covered box with a top entrance, which significantly reduces scatter. Some people add a second bin as a "mudroom" between the litter box and the rest of the house.
Is a homemade box sanitary for my cat?
Yes, as long as you clean it regularly. Scoop daily, replace litter weekly, and rinse the bin with soap and water during changes. A clean homemade box is just as sanitary as a commercial one.
Can multiple cats share one homemade litter box?
The rule is one box per cat plus one extra, so two cats need two boxes. A single large homemade box may work temporarily, but most cats prefer separate boxes. Building a second box costs the same as the first and prevents territorial disputes.