You can build a functional litter box from a plastic storage container, a drill, and a few basic tools

A homemade litter box works just as well as a store-bought one and costs far less. The simplest version uses a plastic storage bin with an entrance hole cut or drilled into one side, a layer of litter, and a removable lid. Most cats adapt to a DIY box within a day or two, especially if you place it where they already use the bathroom. The whole project takes about 30 minutes and requires no special skills.

This approach is practical if you need a second box quickly, want to save money, or prefer a size or shape that commercial boxes don't offer. It also works well for cats with mobility issues, since you can customize the entrance height to suit them.

Key Takeaways

  • A plastic storage container with a drilled entrance hole and a removable lid makes a functional litter box for under $15.
  • The entrance hole should be 4 to 6 inches in diameter and positioned 2 to 3 inches from the bottom to contain litter spray.
  • You will need a power drill with a hole saw bit, a plastic storage bin (at least 20 quarts), and standard litter.
  • Most cats will use a DIY box without hesitation if it is placed in a quiet, accessible location away from food and water.
  • A removable lid reduces odor and litter scatter, though some cats prefer open boxes.

Choosing the right plastic container

Start with a plastic storage bin that is at least 20 quarts in volume—roughly 24 inches long, 16 inches wide, and 12 inches tall. Larger is better; cats need room to turn around and dig. Clear or opaque bins both work; color does not matter to the cat. Avoid bins with locking lids that are difficult to remove, since you will be opening it daily.

Check that the bin has a flat bottom and sturdy walls that will not flex when you drill. Thin, flimsy plastic can crack or warp. Dollar stores, discount retailers, and online marketplaces all carry suitable bins for $5 to $12. If you already have a storage container at home that meets these dimensions, use it—there is no need to buy new.

Drilling the entrance hole

Mark the entrance hole on one of the long sides of the bin, about 2 to 3 inches up from the bottom. This height keeps litter inside the box while allowing the cat to step through. Use a pencil or marker to draw a circle 4 to 6 inches in diameter—large enough for your cat to fit through comfortably without scraping their sides.

Fit your power drill with a hole saw bit that matches your marked circle size. Hole saw bits come in standard sizes (4 inches, 5 inches, 6 inches) and cost $8 to $20 at hardware stores. Clamp the bin to a work surface or have someone hold it steady. Drill slowly and let the bit do the work; rushing can crack the plastic. Once the hole is complete, smooth any rough edges with sandpaper or a file so the cat does not catch their fur.

If you do not have a drill, you can cut the hole with a utility knife or drywall saw, though it will take longer and require more care. Mark the circle, then carefully cut along the line in small strokes. Sand the edges smooth when finished.

Setting up litter and ventilation

Pour 3 to 4 inches of standard clumping litter into the bottom of the bin. This depth gives the cat room to dig and bury waste. Do not overfill; litter will scatter as the cat moves around, and you want headroom inside the box. If you use a removable lid, the litter level should sit at least 4 inches below the top to prevent overflow.

Ventilation matters for odor control. If you are using a lid, drill or cut three to five small holes (about 1 inch diameter) near the top of the bin on different sides. These holes allow air to circulate without creating drafts that scatter litter. If you leave the box open (no lid), ventilation is automatic.

Placement and introducing your cat

Set the litter box in a quiet, low-traffic area away from the cat's food and water bowls. Cats naturally avoid using the bathroom near where they eat. A laundry room, bathroom corner, or basement works well. Make sure the cat can reach it easily and has an escape route if startled. If you have multiple cats, place the box in a different room from any existing litter boxes, or use the rule of one box per cat plus one extra.

When you first introduce the box, place your cat inside it gently so they know where it is. Most cats will use it when ready. If your cat has been using a different spot in the house, move a small amount of soiled litter from that spot into the new box—the familiar scent will draw them to it. Scoop waste daily and replace litter weekly, just as you would with a commercial box.

Modifications for specific situations

If your cat is elderly or has arthritis, lower the entrance hole to 1 inch from the bottom so they do not have to step up. You can also use a larger bin or skip the lid entirely to make entry easier. For kittens, position the hole 1 to 2 inches from the bottom so they can climb in without jumping.

If litter scatter is a problem, add a removable lid and consider placing a mat underneath the box to catch tracked litter. Some people cut a second, smaller hole in the lid (2 to 3 inches diameter) to reduce the opening size while still allowing the cat to enter. This keeps more litter inside the box.

For odor control in small spaces, sprinkle a thin layer of baking soda on the bottom of the bin before adding litter. You can also add a small activated charcoal filter or a crumpled newspaper layer under the litter to absorb moisture. Change these layers when you refresh the litter.

Maintenance and when to replace

A plastic storage bin litter box typically lasts one to two years before the plastic becomes stained, scratched, or develops odor that cleaning cannot remove. Scoop waste daily and wash the bin with hot water and mild soap once a week. If urine smell persists after washing, soak the bin in a solution of equal parts white vinegar and water for 30 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.

When the bin reaches the end of its life, straightforward replace it with a new one. The low cost means you can swap it out without hesitation. Keep the old bin for storage or recycling. Because you are starting fresh with a new container, you avoid the buildup of odor and staining that happens with commercial boxes over time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a cardboard box instead of plastic?

Cardboard absorbs urine and breaks down quickly, usually within a few weeks. Plastic is much more durable and easier to clean. If you want to try cardboard temporarily, line it with a plastic bag first to protect the box itself.

What size hole saw bit do I need?

A 5-inch hole is a good middle ground for most cats. If your cat is small or a kitten, use 4 inches. For a large cat, 6 inches gives more clearance. You can always test by having your cat walk through a rolled-up piece of paper the same diameter before you drill.

Do I have to use a lid?

No. Open boxes are simpler to build and some cats prefer them. Lids reduce odor and litter scatter but can make the box feel cramped. Try it without a lid first; you can always add one later if needed.

Will my cat use a homemade box?

Most cats will use any clean box with litter in it, regardless of whether it is store-bought or homemade. Placement and cleanliness matter far more than the box itself. If your cat has been using a commercial box, they will usually switch to a DIY one without issue.

How often should I replace the litter?

Scoop clumps daily and replace all litter once a week, or more often if you have multiple cats or notice odor building up. A homemade box works best with the same maintenance schedule as any other litter box.