Most cats naturally use a litter box with minimal training, but kittens and newly adopted cats need to learn where it is and how to use it
Cats have a strong instinct to bury their waste, which makes litter box training easier than training most other pets. A kitten or new cat usually needs only to be shown the box location a few times and given gentle encouragement when they use it correctly. The real work is setting up the environment so your cat wants to use the box — the right size, the right litter, the right location, and keeping it clean enough that your cat sees it as the obvious choice.
If your cat is avoiding the box or having accidents outside it, the cause is almost always one of these: the box is too small or too dirty, the litter type has changed, the box is in a location your cat finds stressful, there are not enough boxes for the number of cats you have, or a medical issue is making it painful to use the box. Fixing the environment solves most problems without any training at all.
Key Takeaways
- Place the litter box in a quiet, low-traffic area away from food and water bowls, and keep it accessible at all times.
- Use unscented, fine-grain litter and scoop waste daily — most cats avoid boxes that smell like old urine or feces.
- Gently place a kitten or new cat in the box several times a day, especially after meals and naps, so they learn the location.
- If a cat is avoiding the box, check the box size (it should be 1.5 times the cat's body length), cleanliness, and litter type before assuming a behavior problem.
- Provide one litter box per cat plus one extra — a cat with only one box may avoid it if another cat is guarding it or if it becomes soiled.
Set up the box in the right location
Location is the first thing your cat learns about the litter box, so choose a spot before you bring the cat home. Pick a quiet area away from the cat's food and water bowls — cats naturally avoid eliminating near where they eat. A corner of a bathroom, laundry room, or basement works well. The box must be straightforward for your cat to reach at any time, day or night, so avoid closets with doors that close or rooms you lock at night.
If you have a multi-story home, place at least one box on each level. A cat that has to climb stairs to reach the box may not make it in time, especially an older cat or a kitten still learning. Keep the box away from noisy appliances like furnaces or washing machines — the sudden noise can startle a cat mid-use and create a negative association with that spot.
Once you choose a location, do not move the box unless absolutely necessary. Cats learn the location by memory and routine. If you must move it, do so gradually — shift it a few inches every day over a week or two, so your cat can follow it to the new spot.
Choose the right litter box size and type
The box itself matters more than most people realize. A standard litter box should be at least 1.5 times as long as your cat's body, measured from nose to tail base. A box that is too small makes your cat feel trapped or forces them to eliminate outside the edges. If you have a large cat or a long-bodied breed, a storage container with a hole cut in the lid often works better than a standard box.
Open boxes are better than covered boxes for most cats. A covered box traps odor and makes your cat feel cornered if another cat approaches. If you use a covered box, remove the door or flap — the box itself provides enough privacy. Some cats prefer a box with high sides to prevent litter scatter, while others want low sides for straightforward entry. Watch your cat's behavior: if they perch on the edge or seem hesitant to enter, the sides may be too high.
Avoid boxes with liners or litter that has strong perfume. Many cats dislike the texture of liners or the chemical smell of scented litter. Plain, unscented, fine-grain litter works for most cats. If your cat has been using a particular litter type, stick with it — switching litter suddenly can cause a cat to reject the box.
Show a kitten or new cat where the box is
When you first bring a kitten or new cat home, place them directly in the litter box so they know where it is. Do this several times on the first day, especially after meals, after naps, and before bedtime — these are the times a cat is most likely to need to eliminate. Gently place the cat in the box and let them sniff and explore. Do not force them to stay; let them leave when they are ready.
If you see your cat sniffing the ground, circling, or crouching in a corner, pick them up gently and place them in the box when ready. If they use the box, praise them quietly and give them a small treat. Cats respond to calm, positive reinforcement — loud praise or sudden movements can startle them and create a negative association.
For the first week or two, confine a new kitten to a single room with the litter box, food, water, and a bed. This limits the space where accidents can happen and makes it more likely the kitten will find and use the box by chance. Once the kitten is using the box consistently, gradually open access to other rooms.
Keep the litter box clean and inviting
Scoop the box at least once a day, and twice a day if you have multiple cats. Cats have a strong sense of smell and will avoid a box that smells like old waste. Some cats are so particular that they will not use a box with even a single clump of old litter in it. If your cat is avoiding the box, try scooping more frequently before you assume there is a behavior problem.
Change the litter completely once a week. Pour out all the old litter, wipe the box with a damp cloth, let it dry, and refill with fresh litter. Do not use bleach or strong-smelling cleaners — the smell can deter your cat. Plain water or a mild, unscented soap works fine.
If your cat has had an accident outside the box, clean the spot thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner designed for pet urine. Regular cleaners do not break down the urine compounds, so the smell lingers and your cat may return to the same spot. An enzymatic cleaner removes the odor completely, which removes the reason your cat chose that location.
Provide enough boxes for the number of cats you have
The rule is one box per cat plus one extra. If you have two cats, use three boxes. If you have one cat, use two. This prevents one cat from monopolizing the box or blocking another cat's access. Cats are territorial, and a cat that controls the litter box can prevent other cats from using it, leading to accidents elsewhere in the house.
Spread the boxes across different locations so a cat does not have to pass through another cat's territory to reach one. If you have a two-story home, place boxes on both levels. If one cat is dominant and guards the box, place one box in a separate room where the other cat can access it without confrontation.
Know when to call a veterinarian
If a cat that was reliably using the litter box suddenly stops, or if a cat is straining, crying out, or producing very small amounts of urine or stool, contact your veterinarian. These signs can indicate a urinary tract infection, kidney disease, diabetes, or intestinal parasites — all of which are painful and require medical treatment. A cat in pain will avoid the box because they associate it with discomfort.
Older cats sometimes develop arthritis that makes it painful to climb into a box with high sides or to squat. If your senior cat is having accidents, try a box with very low sides or a large, shallow storage container. Your veterinarian can also rule out medical causes and suggest adjustments based on your cat's age and health.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to litter box train a kitten?
Most kittens use the box consistently within a few days to a week of being shown where it is. Kittens have a natural instinct to bury waste, so training is usually just a matter of location. If a kitten is still having accidents after two weeks, check the box size, cleanliness, and location before assuming the kitten needs more time.
What should I do if my cat is using the box but also having accidents outside it?
This usually means the box is not meeting your cat's needs. Check that the box is large enough, clean enough, and in a location your cat can reach easily. Add a second box in a different location. If you have multiple cats, add more boxes so each cat has options. If the problem continues, contact your veterinarian to rule out a medical issue.
Can I use a litter box with a hood or door?
Hooded boxes and boxes with doors trap odor and can make cats feel trapped or vulnerable. Most cats prefer open boxes. If you use a hooded box, remove the door or flap so your cat can see out and escape easily. If your cat is avoiding a hooded box, switch to an open one.
Is it normal for a cat to kick litter out of the box?
Yes — cats naturally kick litter to cover their waste, and some cats are messier than others. Use a box with higher sides or place a mat under the box to catch scattered litter. If litter scatter is severe, try a larger box or a storage container with a hole cut in the lid, which contains the litter better.
What if my cat refuses to use a new litter box I bought?
Cats are sensitive to changes in their environment. If your cat rejects a new box, it may be the size, shape, or material. Try placing the new box next to the old one for a few days so your cat can investigate it at their own pace. If your cat still refuses it, return to the original box and make changes gradually — cats adapt better to slow transitions than sudden ones.