The Basic Steps to Teach Shake
Teaching your dog to shake takes about two to four weeks of short, daily practice sessions. Start by getting your dog to sit in front of you, then hold a treat close to their chest. Most dogs will naturally paw at your hand to get the treat — the moment their paw touches your hand, say "shake" clearly, give the treat, and praise them. Repeat this 5 to 10 times per session, once or twice a day.
Once your dog is pawing at your hand reliably when you hold the treat, add a hand signal: hold your open palm up at chest height. Say "shake," present your palm, and wait for the paw. When it lands, reward when ready. After a week or two of this, your dog will start to associate the word and the hand signal with the action, and you can gradually reduce how close you hold the treat to their body.
The key is consistency. Use the same word, the same hand signal, and the same reward every time. Dogs learn through repetition, not through long training sessions — five minutes of focused practice is far more effective than thirty minutes of scattered attempts.
Key Takeaways
- Hold a treat at your dog's chest to trigger the natural pawing behavior, then mark that moment with the word "shake" and reward it.
- Practice in short sessions of 5 to 10 repetitions, once or twice daily, rather than long training blocks.
- Add a hand signal (open palm) only after your dog is reliably pawing at your hand for the treat.
- Most dogs learn shake in two to four weeks if you practice consistently in a quiet, distraction-free space.
- Use high-value treats — small pieces of chicken, cheese, or hot dog work better than kibble for keeping your dog motivated.
Choosing the Right Treats and Timing
The treat you use matters more than you might think. Your dog will learn faster if the reward is something they genuinely want. Kibble alone rarely works; instead, use small pieces of cooked chicken, cheese, hot dog, or commercial training treats designed to be soft and straightforward to eat quickly. The treat should be small enough that your dog can swallow it in one or two bites — you want them back in position for the next repetition within seconds.
Timing is equally important. Reward your dog the when ready their paw touches your hand, not a second later. Dogs connect the reward to whatever they were doing in that exact moment, so a delayed treat teaches them nothing. If you wait even two seconds, your dog may have already moved their paw away, and they will not understand what earned the reward.
Train when your dog is hungry but not frantic. A dog who has just eaten will not care about treats. A dog who is overstimulated or tired will not focus. The best time is usually mid-morning or late afternoon, before a meal, in a calm part of your home.
Common Mistakes That Slow Progress
The most common mistake is training for too long in one session. A dog's attention span for this kind of work is short — after 5 to 10 repetitions, they start to lose focus and make mistakes. When that happens, stop and try again later. A frustrated dog learns nothing, and you will both end up frustrated.
Another mistake is moving your hand too far from your dog's body too quickly. If you hold the treat at arm's length before your dog understands what "shake" means, they will not know what to do and will straightforward sit and stare. Keep the treat close to their chest for the first week or two, then gradually move it farther away as they understand the game.
Some owners also reward inconsistently — they reward the paw one time but not the next, or they reward after the paw has already come down. This confuses your dog about what behavior earns the treat. Every single time your dog's paw touches your hand during training, that paw touch should result in a reward and praise.
Adding the Hand Signal and Phasing Out the Treat Lure
Once your dog is reliably pawing at your hand when you hold a treat near their chest, introduce the hand signal. Hold your open palm up at chest height, say "shake," and let your dog paw at your palm. Reward from your other hand or from a treat pouch at your side — not from the hand they are shaking. This teaches them to shake your hand itself, not just to chase a treat.
After another week or two, your dog should paw at your open palm even when there is no treat visible. At this point, you can start to phase out the treat lure. Instead of holding a treat in front of them, straightforward present your open palm, say "shake," and reward after they paw. Gradually, your dog will learn to shake on the word and hand signal alone, though you should still reward every time during the learning phase.
Once your dog reliably shakes on command, you can switch to intermittent rewards — rewarding every other time, or every third time. This actually makes the behavior stronger and longer-lasting than rewarding every single time. But during the first few weeks, consistency is what builds the behavior in the first place.
Troubleshooting When Your Dog Does Not Paw
If your dog does not naturally paw at your hand when you hold a treat near their chest, you can encourage it by moving the treat slightly to the side or up, so they have to reach for it. Some dogs will paw to get the treat if you make it just out of straightforward reach. If your dog jumps instead of pawing, lower the treat so they have to paw rather than jump to reach it.
Another option is to gently tickle the back of your dog's leg or side while holding the treat. Many dogs will paw in response to a light tickle. The moment they paw, mark it with "shake," reward, and praise. After a few repetitions, they often start pawing on their own without the tickle.
If your dog straightforward will not paw no matter what you do, take a break for a day or two and try again. Some dogs are less naturally inclined to use their paws, and that is normal. You may need more repetitions or a higher-value treat to get them interested. Patience and consistency will eventually work.
Practicing in Different Environments
Once your dog shakes reliably in your home, practice in other places: the yard, a quiet park, a friend's house. Dogs do not automatically transfer a behavior from one place to another — your dog may shake perfectly at home but ignore the command at the park because the environment is new and distracting.
Start in a quieter environment and gradually move to busier ones. Practice shake before walks, after meals, or during calm moments. The more places and situations where your dog practices the behavior, the more solid it becomes. This is called generalization, and it is what turns a trick your dog does at home into a behavior they will do anywhere.
Keep training sessions short even after your dog has learned shake. A quick 30-second practice during the day keeps the behavior fresh and strong. Dogs forget behaviors they do not practice regularly, so occasional reinforcement is part of long-term success.
When to Move On to Other Tricks
Once your dog shakes reliably on command in multiple environments, you have successfully taught the behavior. At this point, you can maintain it with occasional practice and move on to teaching other tricks. Many owners teach shake alongside sit and stay, since these are foundational behaviors that build on each other.
If you want to teach shake with both paws, start the same way but use a different word — "double shake" or "both paws" — and reward only when both paws touch your hands at the same time. This takes longer because the behavior is more complex, but the method is identical: mark the moment both paws touch, say the word, and reward.
Frequently Asked Questions
How old does my dog need to be to learn shake?
Dogs can start learning shake at around 8 to 12 weeks old, though puppies have shorter attention spans and will need even briefer training sessions — 2 to 3 minutes maximum. Older dogs learn just as well as puppies; age is not a barrier. The key is patience and consistency regardless of your dog's age.
What if my dog shakes but does not understand the word yet?
Your dog is learning the behavior but not yet connecting it to the word. Keep saying "shake" every single time their paw touches your hand, and keep rewarding. After 20 to 30 repetitions over several days, most dogs start to associate the word with the action. Consistency is what builds that connection.
Can I use a clicker to train shake?
Yes. A clicker is a small device that makes a distinct sound, and it marks the exact moment your dog does the right thing. Click the moment their paw touches your hand, then give a treat. Many trainers find clickers speed up learning because the sound is so precise. If you use a clicker, you still need to follow it with a treat every time during the learning phase.
My dog shakes but only with one paw. Is that normal?
Yes, most dogs have a preferred paw, just like people are right- or left-handed. If your dog always shakes with the same paw, that is normal and fine. If you want them to shake with the other paw, you can teach it as a separate behavior with a different word, like "other paw" or "left paw."
How long should each training session be?
Keep sessions to 5 to 10 repetitions, which usually takes 2 to 5 minutes. After that, your dog's focus drops and mistakes increase. Two short sessions a day are far more effective than one long session. Stop while your dog is still interested and doing the behavior correctly.