The basic steps to train a paw command
Teaching your dog to paw on command takes about two to four weeks of short, regular practice sessions. The method works because dogs naturally paw at things they want — you are straightforward catching that behaviour and putting a word to it. Start with your dog sitting in front of you in a quiet room with no distractions. Hold a treat close to your chest, slightly to one side. Most dogs will paw at your hand or arm to try to reach the treat. The moment their paw touches you, say "paw" or "shake" clearly, then when ready give them the treat and praise.
Timing is everything. You must reward the paw within one second of it happening, or your dog will not connect the word to the action. Use small, soft treats that your dog can swallow quickly so you can repeat the exercise multiple times in one session. Keep each training session to five or ten minutes — dogs learn better with short, frequent practice than with one long session. Do this once or twice a day, five days a week.
Key Takeaways
- Hold a treat near your chest to trigger your dog's natural pawing instinct, then reward the moment their paw touches you.
- Say the command word — "paw" or "shake" — at the exact moment your dog's paw makes contact, not before or after.
- Use small treats and keep sessions short, five to ten minutes, to hold your dog's focus and prevent frustration.
- Practice five days a week for two to four weeks before your dog reliably offers the paw on command alone.
- Once your dog paws on the verbal command, gradually reduce the hand signal so they respond to your voice only.
Moving from the treat lure to the verbal command
After one to two weeks of consistent practice, your dog should be pawing at your hand whenever you hold the treat near your chest. Now you need to fade out the treat lure so your dog responds to the word alone. Hold your hand in the same position but without the treat visible. Say "paw" and wait. If your dog paws, reward when ready from your other hand or from a treat pouch. If they do not paw, go back to showing the treat for a few more sessions before trying again.
Some dogs catch on to this step quickly; others need two or three extra weeks. There is no rush. If your dog seems confused, return to the lure for a few days and try the transition again. Once your dog paws reliably without seeing the treat, you can begin using a hand signal — an open palm held at chest height — alongside the verbal command. Eventually, most dogs will respond to either the word or the gesture alone.
Troubleshooting when your dog does not paw
If your dog is not naturally pawing at your hand, try adjusting the treat position. Hold it higher, lower, or further to the side. Some dogs paw more readily when the treat is just out of reach. If your dog jumps instead of pawing, hold the treat lower, closer to their chest. If they lick your hand instead, move the treat slightly away so they cannot reach it with their mouth.
A few dogs are less mouthy and paw-oriented by nature and may need extra encouragement. You can gently tickle the back of their leg or their side to trigger the pawing reflex. Do this while holding the treat, so they associate pawing with the reward. Never push or force their paw onto your hand — this teaches them nothing and can make them uncomfortable. Patience and repetition work better than any physical prompt.
Common mistakes that slow down training
The most common error is rewarding too slowly. If you wait more than a second after your dog paws, they will not understand what earned the treat. Another mistake is using the command word at the wrong time. Say "paw" as your dog's foot is touching your hand, not before they paw or after the paw is already down. Saying it too early teaches them the word means "get ready to paw," not "paw now."
Inconsistency also derails progress. If you sometimes reward a paw and sometimes do not, your dog will become confused about when the behaviour is correct. Make sure everyone in your household uses the same command word and the same reward system. Finally, do not train when your dog is tired, overstimulated, or hungry to the point of desperation — a calm, moderately hungry dog learns fastest.
Building on the paw command with variations
Once your dog reliably paws on command, you can teach variations that make the trick more interesting. "High five" is the same motion but with your hand held higher, so your dog has to reach up. "Both paws" teaches your dog to paw with both feet at once — start by rewarding only when both paws touch you in quick succession. "Shake left" and "shake right" teach your dog to paw with a specific foot, though this takes longer because you have to wait for the correct foot and reward only that one.
You can also chain the paw command with other tricks. For example, your dog sits, then paws, then lies down — all on a single cue sequence. These variations keep training fun and give your dog a larger repertoire of behaviours. However, master the basic paw command first before moving on to these extensions.
How often to practice and when to expect results
Dogs learn fastest with consistent, short sessions. Aim for one or two five-minute sessions per day, five or six days a week. This schedule is more effective than one long session per week. Most dogs begin to understand the connection between the word and the action within the first week, but they will not perform reliably on command until week three or four. Some dogs, particularly older dogs or those with less experience in training, may take six to eight weeks.
Do not expect perfection when ready. In the early weeks, your dog may paw sometimes and not others, or may paw only when they see the treat. This is normal. Consistency on your part — same word, same timing, same reward — is what builds reliability on theirs. Once your dog paws reliably in a quiet room, begin practising in other locations: the kitchen, the backyard, a park. New environments will temporarily confuse your dog, so go back to basics in each new place and rebuild from there.
Keeping the paw command sharp over time
Once your dog knows the paw command well, you do not need to train it every day. However, practising once or twice a week keeps the behaviour strong. If you stop training for several months, your dog may forget or become less reliable. A quick refresher session — five minutes of rewarding paws — usually brings the command back quickly.
As your dog ages, their willingness to paw may change. Older dogs or dogs with joint problems may paw less frequently or with less enthusiasm. This is normal and not a sign of failure. If your dog has arthritis or other pain, consult your veterinarian before continuing paw training, as the repetitive motion could cause discomfort.
Frequently Asked Questions
How old does my dog need to be to learn to paw?
Puppies can begin learning around eight weeks old, though their attention span is very short — two or three minutes per session. Older dogs and adult dogs often learn faster because they can focus longer. Age is not a barrier; even senior dogs can learn new commands if they are in good health.
What if my dog paws at me all the time without being asked?
This is common and usually means your dog has learned that pawing gets attention. Stop rewarding unsolicited paws by ignoring them completely — do not talk to, look at, or touch your dog when they paw unprompted. Only reward paws that happen after you say the command. This teaches your dog that pawing works only when you ask for it.
Can I teach paw if my dog does not like treats?
Yes, but it takes longer. Use whatever your dog loves most — a toy, a ball, a few seconds of play, or praise. The reward must be something your dog will work for. Some dogs are toy-motivated rather than food-motivated, and that works just as well. Experiment to find what makes your dog eager to repeat the behaviour.
Why does my dog paw with only one foot?
Most dogs have a dominant paw, just as humans have a dominant hand. Your dog will naturally favour one foot. If you want them to paw with both feet, you need to specifically reward only moments when both paws touch you, which takes extra weeks of training. If one paw is fine for your purposes, there is no need to change it.
Should I use a clicker when training paw?
A clicker can help, but it is not necessary. A clicker marks the exact moment your dog does the right thing, which some dogs find clearer than waiting for a treat. If you use a clicker, click the when ready the paw touches you, then when ready give a treat. If you do not have a clicker, a quick word like "yes" works just as well.