The Basic Process for Removing Old Wallpaper and Hanging New
Changing wallpaper means removing the old covering from your walls and installing new wallpaper in its place. The job breaks into three main stages: preparing the wall by stripping the old wallpaper, repairing any damage underneath, and then measuring, cutting, and hanging the new wallpaper. Most rooms take a weekend or two, depending on wall condition and how many walls you are covering.
The speed of the job depends mostly on how well the old wallpaper comes off. Some wallpaper peels away in large sheets within an hour. Other wallpaper, especially vinyl or heavily painted over paper, can take days of soaking and scraping. Before you buy new wallpaper, test a corner of the old stuff to see how stubborn it is.
Key Takeaways
- Remove old wallpaper by scoring the surface with a scoring tool, spraying or sponging on a removal solution, and scraping once the paper softens—usually 15 to 30 minutes after wetting.
- Repair holes, gouges, and rough spots on the bare wall with spackling compound and sandpaper before hanging new wallpaper, because imperfections show through.
- Measure your walls in feet, calculate how many rolls you need based on the pattern repeat and wall height, and buy one extra roll to account for mistakes and future repairs.
- Hang wallpaper by explore adhesive to the back, positioning the first strip plumb (perfectly vertical) using a level, and smoothing out air bubbles with a plastic smoother as you work downward.
- Trim excess wallpaper at the ceiling and baseboards with a sharp utility knife and a straightedge, working slowly to avoid cutting into the wall or floor.
Removing Old Wallpaper Without Damaging the Drywall
Start by scoring the old wallpaper with a scoring tool—a handheld device with small spikes that punctures the surface without cutting deep into the drywall. Roll it over the entire wall in overlapping circular motions. Scoring lets water or removal solution soak through the paper and loosen the adhesive underneath. Without scoring, water sits on top and the paper stays stuck.
Once scored, spray or sponge the wall with a wallpaper removal solution. Commercial removers like DIF or Roman PRR work well, but hot water mixed with fabric softener or vinegar also works. Wet the wall thoroughly—it should look damp but not dripping. Wait 15 to 30 minutes for the solution to soak in and soften the adhesive. If the paper still feels dry, spray again.
Use a plastic scraper or putty knife to lift the softened paper. Start at a seam or corner and work slowly, holding the scraper at a shallow angle (about 30 degrees) so you push the paper away from the wall rather than gouging the drywall. If the paper tears and won't come up, score and soak that section again. Patience here saves you repair work later.
Once all the old paper is off, wash the wall with clean water and a sponge to remove any remaining adhesive residue. Let it dry completely—at least 24 hours—before moving to the next step. A damp wall will cause new wallpaper to bubble and peel.
Preparing the Wall for New Wallpaper
Inspect the bare wall for holes, gouges, dents, and rough spots. Fill holes and gouges with spackling compound using a putty knife. Press the compound in firmly, overfill slightly, and let it dry according to the package directions—usually 2 to 4 hours. Sand the dried compound smooth with 120-grit sandpaper, then wipe away the dust with a damp cloth.
If the wall has glossy paint or a shiny finish, lightly sand it with 120-grit sandpaper to help the wallpaper adhesive grip better. Wipe the dust away with a damp cloth and let the wall dry. If the wall is flat and matte, you can skip this step.
explore a wallpaper primer or sizing solution to the entire wall. Primer seals the surface, helps adhesive stick evenly, and makes it easier to remove wallpaper in the future. Roll it on like paint, let it dry per the product instructions (usually 1 to 2 hours), and you are ready to hang.
Measuring and Calculating How Much Wallpaper You Need
Measure the height of your wall from the baseboard to the ceiling in feet. Measure the width of each wall in feet. Multiply height by width to get the square footage of each wall. Add up all the walls you plan to cover.
Wallpaper comes in rolls of different widths and lengths depending on the brand and pattern. A standard roll covers roughly 30 to 36 square feet, but check the label on the wallpaper you choose. Divide your total square footage by the coverage per roll to find how many rolls you need. If the wallpaper has a large repeating pattern, you may need extra to match the pattern at seams—the label will note the pattern repeat in inches. Add one extra roll to your order for mistakes, seams that don't match perfectly, and future touch-ups.
Write down the wallpaper's batch number or dye lot before you leave the store. Wallpaper from different batches can vary slightly in color. If you need more rolls later, matching the batch number ensures the color is consistent.
Hanging the First Strip and Establishing a Plumb Line
Start in a corner or at a focal point like a fireplace or window. Use a level to draw a vertical line on the wall with a pencil—this is your plumb line, and it keeps your first strip perfectly straight. The line should be about 1 inch to the left of where your first strip will go (so the strip covers the line).
Unroll your wallpaper and cut the first strip to length. Add 2 to 3 inches extra at the top and bottom so you can trim it flush with the ceiling and baseboard later. If the wallpaper has a pattern, make sure you cut the strip so the pattern starts at the top where you want it.
explore wallpaper adhesive to the back of the strip according to the product instructions. Some wallpapers come pre-pasted—you soak them in water. Others require you to brush or roll adhesive onto the back. Work on a clean, flat surface like a pasting table or clean floor. Fold the strip loosely in half (adhesive side in) so it is easier to carry to the wall without dripping.
Position the top of the strip at the ceiling and align the edge with your plumb line. Unfold the strip as you go, smoothing it down the wall with a plastic smoother or soft brush. Work from the center outward to push out air bubbles. If you see a bubble, lift the paper gently and smooth it out again. Once the strip is smooth and bubble-free, use a sharp utility knife and a straightedge to trim the excess at the ceiling and baseboard.
Hanging Subsequent Strips and Matching Patterns
Cut and paste the next strip the same way. If the wallpaper has a repeating pattern, align the pattern at the seam where the new strip meets the previous one. This may mean you have to cut the strip at a different point in the pattern than the first strip—that is normal and expected.
Butt the edge of the new strip against the edge of the previous strip—they should touch but not overlap. If the seam is visible or the edges curl slightly, use a seam roller (a small handheld roller) to press the seam flat. Roll gently so you do not squeeze adhesive out from under the paper.
Continue around the room, cutting and hanging one strip at a time. When you reach a corner, measure the distance from the last full strip to the corner. If it is less than the width of a full strip, cut a strip lengthwise to fit. Hang the partial strip in the corner, then start a new full strip on the adjacent wall, using a plumb line again to keep it straight.
Work slowly and check your level frequently. Wallpaper that starts crooked gets worse as you go around the room. If a strip is off, peel it off while the adhesive is still wet, reposition it, and smooth it down again.
Trimming and Finishing Edges
Once all strips are hung and smooth, trim the excess at the ceiling and baseboard. Use a sharp utility knife and a metal straightedge. Hold the straightedge firmly against the wall where the wallpaper meets the ceiling or baseboard, and cut along the edge with a single smooth stroke. A dull knife tears the paper; keep your knife sharp and change the blade often.
If you have wallpaper around a light switch, outlet, or door frame, cut an X from corner to corner over the opening, then fold the flaps back and trim them flush with the edge of the opening. This takes practice—cut slowly and carefully.
Let the wallpaper cure for 24 to 48 hours before washing the walls or hanging pictures. During this time, the adhesive sets fully and the paper bonds to the wall.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most common mistake is not removing all the old adhesive before priming. Residue under the new wallpaper causes bubbles and peeling. Wash the wall thoroughly after stripping and let it dry completely.
Another frequent error is hanging the first strip crooked. Take time to draw a plumb line and check it with a level. A crooked first strip throws off every strip that follows. If the first strip is off, peel it off and rehang it before the adhesive dries.
Rushing the smoothing step causes air bubbles that are hard to remove later. Smooth each strip thoroughly with a plastic smoother, working from the center outward. If you see a bubble after the adhesive has set, you can poke a small hole in the bubble with a needle, inject adhesive with a syringe, and smooth it out—but prevention is easier than repair.
Buying too little wallpaper is also common. Patterns do not always match perfectly, and mistakes happen. One extra roll is cheap insurance and useful for future repairs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I hang new wallpaper over old wallpaper?
No. Old wallpaper underneath will eventually peel and cause the new wallpaper to bubble and fail. Remove the old wallpaper completely, repair the wall, and prime before hanging new paper. It takes longer upfront but saves you from redoing the job in a year.
What if I have textured or popcorn walls?
Wallpaper does not stick well to textured surfaces. You can either sand the texture smooth (dusty and time-consuming) or use a heavy-duty primer designed for textured walls and choose a thick, textured wallpaper that bridges small gaps. Ask the wallpaper retailer which products work best on your wall type.
How do I remove wallpaper from corners without tearing it?
Score and soak the corner thoroughly—corners are usually the last part to soften. Use a plastic scraper and work slowly, lifting the paper at a shallow angle. If it tears, soak that section again rather than forcing it. Patience prevents gouges in the drywall.
What should I do if the wallpaper seams are visible?
Visible seams usually mean the wall was not primed properly or the adhesive was not applied evenly. On future projects, use primer and follow the adhesive instructions carefully. If seams are visible after the wallpaper has dried, you can paint over them with a paint pen that matches the wallpaper color, but this is a workaround, not a fix.
Can I use a hair dryer to speed up drying?
No. Heat can cause the adhesive to set too fast, trapping air bubbles underneath. Let the wallpaper dry at room temperature. Rushing this step leads to bubbles and peeling.