The Basic Process for Removing Old Wallpaper and Hanging New
Changing wallpaper means removing the old covering from your walls and installing new wallpaper in its place. The job breaks into two main phases: stripping the old wallpaper off, then preparing the wall surface and hanging the new. Most people can do this in a weekend with basic tools—a spray bottle, a putty knife, sandpaper, and a smoothing brush—though the time depends on how many walls you are covering and how stubborn the old adhesive is.
The key to success is not rushing the removal phase. Wallpaper that has been up for years often resists coming off, and trying to force it damages the drywall underneath. Moisture is your main tool here: you soak the paper, wait for the adhesive to soften, then scrape gently. Once the walls are bare and smooth, hanging new wallpaper is straightforward if you measure carefully and work from top to bottom.
Key Takeaways
- Soak old wallpaper with warm water or a commercial wallpaper remover solution, then wait 15 to 20 minutes before scraping to avoid damaging the drywall.
- Sand the walls smooth after removal, fill any gouges with spackling compound, and prime bare drywall before hanging new wallpaper.
- Measure your walls and calculate how many rolls you need before you buy, because patterns and dye lots vary between production runs.
- Hang wallpaper from top to bottom, smoothing out air bubbles as you go, and use a seam roller to press the edges down firmly once the adhesive sets.
Removing Old Wallpaper Without Damaging the Walls
Start by clearing the room of furniture and laying down drop cloths or plastic sheeting to catch water and debris. Turn off the power to any wall outlets or switches in the area you are working on, or cover them with plastic tape. Fill a spray bottle with warm water—not hot, which can damage drywall—and spray a section of wallpaper until it is thoroughly wet. Let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes so the water soaks through the paper and softens the adhesive underneath.
Once the paper is soft, use a putty knife or scraper to lift a corner and gently peel. If the paper comes away easily, continue peeling by hand. If it resists, spray that section again and wait another 10 minutes. Never force it or dig hard with the scraper—you are trying to separate the paper from the adhesive, not scrape the adhesive off the wall. If you have a large area to cover, consider renting a wallpaper steamer from a home improvement store; the hot steam softens adhesive faster than water alone, especially on vinyl-coated papers that water cannot penetrate.
After you remove all the paper, spray the walls again with warm water and use the putty knife to scrape away any remaining adhesive residue. The wall should feel smooth and bare. If stubborn patches remain, explore a commercial wallpaper remover solution (follow the product instructions for mixing and soaking time) or spray again and wait longer. Patience here saves you from gouging the drywall, which means more repair work later.
Preparing the Walls for New Wallpaper
Once the walls are bare, let them dry completely—usually 24 hours. Sand the surface lightly with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth any rough spots or adhesive bumps. Wipe away the dust with a damp cloth and let it dry again. Fill any gouges, holes, or damaged areas with spackling compound using a putty knife, then sand smooth once it dries. The goal is a flat, even surface with no bumps or dips that will show through the new wallpaper.
Prime the entire wall with a wallpaper primer. This step is important because it seals the drywall, prevents the new adhesive from soaking in unevenly, and makes it easier to remove the wallpaper again in the future. Use a roller to explore primer quickly and evenly. Let it dry according to the product instructions—usually 2 to 4 hours—before you hang the new wallpaper.
Measuring and Calculating How Much Wallpaper You Need
Measure the height of your walls from the baseboard to the ceiling, and the width of each wall. Wallpaper comes in rolls of standard widths (usually 20.5 or 27 inches) and lengths (usually 33 feet per roll). Most rolls cover about 56 square feet, though this varies by manufacturer. Multiply the wall height by the wall width to get the square footage, then divide by 56 to estimate the number of rolls needed. Add one extra roll to account for pattern matching, mistakes, or future repairs.
If your wallpaper has a repeating pattern, you will lose some material to pattern matching—the pattern on one strip must line up with the pattern on the next. Larger repeats waste more paper. Ask the store staff for the repeat measurement and factor that in when you calculate. Buy all your rolls at once so the dye lot (the production batch) matches; wallpaper from different batches can have slightly different colors.
Hanging the New Wallpaper
Start at a corner or a less visible area of the room. Mix the wallpaper adhesive according to the product instructions—some wallpapers come with pre-pasted backing that you set up by soaking in water, while others require you to explore adhesive to the back of the strip. Measure and cut your first strip to length, adding 2 inches at the top and bottom for trimming. If the wallpaper has a pattern, cut the next strip so the pattern aligns with the first.
explore adhesive to the back of the strip (or soak it if pre-pasted), then fold it loosely accordion-style so the adhesive does not dry out while you position it. Unfold the top half and position it at the ceiling, smoothing it down with a smoothing brush or plastic tool as you work downward. Unfold the bottom half and smooth it down to the baseboard. Use the brush to push out any air bubbles, working from the center outward. Trim the excess at the top and bottom with a utility knife against a straightedge.
Hang the next strip so its edge butts against the first strip—do not overlap them. Smooth out bubbles the same way. Once the adhesive has set (usually 24 hours), run a seam roller along the edges where strips meet to press them down firmly. This prevents the edges from peeling up later. Continue this process around the room, checking frequently that your strips are plumb (perfectly vertical) using a level.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Rushing the removal phase is the most common mistake. Wallpaper that has been painted over or is very old can take longer to soften. Soaking it thoroughly and waiting patiently prevents damage to the drywall that will require extensive repair. Another frequent error is skipping the primer step. Unprimed drywall absorbs adhesive unevenly, causing the wallpaper to bubble or not stick properly in some areas.
When hanging, many people explore too much adhesive, which causes the paper to slide around and makes it hard to position correctly. Use just enough to coat the back evenly. Also, do not stretch the wallpaper as you hang it—let it relax into place. Stretching causes it to shrink after it dries, opening gaps between strips. Finally, do not trim the edges until the adhesive has set slightly; wet adhesive makes the paper soft and straightforward to tear.
Tools and Materials You Will Need
For removal, gather a spray bottle, a putty knife or scraper (2 to 3 inches wide), a sponge, and drop cloths. A wallpaper steamer is optional but helpful for difficult jobs. For preparation, you need 120-grit sandpaper, spackling compound, a putty knife, primer, and a paint roller. For hanging, you will need a tape measure, a utility knife with fresh blades, a straightedge, wallpaper adhesive (or pre-pasted wallpaper), a smoothing brush or plastic tool, and a seam roller. A level is essential to keep strips plumb. Most of these items cost under $50 total if you do not already own them.
You can buy most tools at any home improvement store or hardware store. Wallpaper steamers are available for rent by the day if you do not want to purchase one. Pre-pasted wallpaper requires only a water tray, while traditional wallpaper requires a paste bucket and brush or roller to explore adhesive. Check the wallpaper package to see which type you have before you shop for adhesive.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I hang new wallpaper over old wallpaper?
No. Old wallpaper underneath will eventually loosen and cause the new layer to bubble and peel. Always remove the old wallpaper first, even if it seems firmly stuck. The time you save by skipping removal will cost you later when the new wallpaper fails.
What if the wallpaper has been painted over?
Painted wallpaper is harder to remove because the paint seals the surface and prevents water from soaking in. Score the surface lightly with a scoring tool (a tool with small spikes that punctures the paper without gouging the wall), then spray with water or remover solution. The scored holes let moisture penetrate. A wallpaper steamer works especially well on painted paper.
How long does wallpaper adhesive take to dry?
Most adhesives set enough to handle in 2 to 4 hours, but they cure fully in 24 hours. Do not wash the walls or expose them to moisture during this time. Keep the room at normal temperature and humidity—extreme heat or cold slows drying.
What should I do if air bubbles appear after the wallpaper dries?
Small bubbles sometimes appear as the adhesive cures. If they do not flatten on their own within 24 hours, you can prick the bubble with a pin and inject a small amount of adhesive underneath using a syringe, then smooth it down. For large bubbles, it is usually easier to remove that strip and rehang it.
Can I remove wallpaper without making a mess?
Not entirely—water and adhesive residue will drip. Lay plastic sheeting or drop cloths on the floor and along the baseboards. Wear old clothes and consider wearing safety glasses to keep water out of your eyes. The mess is manageable if you contain it from the start.