The basic steps to remove old wallpaper and hang new

Changing wallpaper means removing the old layer, preparing the wall surface, and hanging new wallpaper or choosing a different wall finish altogether. The process takes a weekend or two depending on how much wall space you have and how stubborn the old adhesive is. Most homeowners can do this themselves with basic tools—a scoring tool, spray bottle, putty knife, and a wallpaper brush or roller.

The hardest part is usually getting the old wallpaper off cleanly without damaging the drywall underneath. Once that's done, the wall prep is straightforward, and hanging new paper follows a repeatable pattern. If you decide wallpaper isn't for you, you can paint instead—which is faster but requires the same wall prep work first.

Key Takeaways

  • Score the old wallpaper with a perforated tool, spray it with hot water or a commercial remover, and scrape it off after 15 to 20 minutes of soaking.
  • Fill holes and sand the wall smooth, then prime any bare drywall before hanging new wallpaper or painting.
  • Measure your walls and order wallpaper with 10 percent extra to account for pattern matching and mistakes.
  • Hang wallpaper from top to bottom using a plumb line to keep edges straight, and smooth out air bubbles as you go.

Removing old wallpaper without damaging the wall

Start by scoring the surface of the old wallpaper with a scoring tool—a handheld device with small spikes that puncture the paper without cutting into the drywall. Roll it over the entire wall in overlapping circular motions. This creates tiny holes that let water or remover solution soak through to the adhesive underneath.

Fill a spray bottle with hot water mixed with a small amount of fabric softener, or use a commercial wallpaper remover like DIF or Roman PRO-543. Spray the scored wall generously and let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes. The adhesive will soften. Use a putty knife or scraper to lift the paper gently from the bottom corner upward. If it resists, spray again and wait longer—forcing it will gouge the drywall.

For stubborn adhesive that won't come off with the paper, spray the bare wall again and scrape more carefully. A plastic scraper is safer than a metal one for this final cleanup. Once the wall is bare, wash it with clean water to remove any remaining adhesive residue, then let it dry completely before moving to wall prep.

Preparing the wall for new wallpaper or paint

Inspect the bare wall for holes, gouges, or rough spots. Fill small holes with spackling compound using a putty knife, overfilling slightly so it shrinks flush as it dries. Sand it smooth with 120-grit sandpaper once dry. For larger damage, use joint compound in thin layers, sanding between coats.

Wash the entire wall with a damp sponge to remove dust and any remaining adhesive. Let it dry completely. If you're hanging new wallpaper, prime any bare drywall with a wallpaper primer—a thin, quick-drying primer that gives the adhesive something to grip. If you're painting instead, use a standard primer and paint suitable for walls.

Check that the wall is smooth to the touch and free of loose paint. If old paint is peeling or flaking, scrape it off and prime those areas too. A smooth, primed surface is the foundation for wallpaper that stays put and doesn't bubble or peel at the seams.

Measuring and ordering the right amount of wallpaper

Measure the height of your wall from baseboard to ceiling and the total width of each wall you're covering. Wallpaper comes in rolls of different widths—typically 20.5 inches or 27 inches wide—and lengths vary by manufacturer. Most rolls cover 30 to 36 square feet.

Calculate the total square footage of wall space, then divide by the coverage per roll to find how many rolls you need. Add 10 percent extra to account for pattern matching, trimming mistakes, and future repairs. If your wallpaper has a large repeating pattern, you may need more rolls because each strip must align with the pattern on the adjacent strip.

Order all your wallpaper at once and check that the batch numbers match—dye lots can vary slightly in color between batches. Keep the receipt and packaging information in case you need to return unopened rolls or order more later.

Hanging wallpaper step by step

Start at a corner or a focal point like a window. Use a plumb line (a string with a weight) to mark a perfectly vertical line on the wall—this is your guide for the first strip. Wallpaper must hang straight or the pattern will look crooked.

Mix wallpaper adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions, or use pre-pasted wallpaper that you set up by soaking in water. explore adhesive to the back of the first strip with a brush or roller, covering the entire surface evenly. Fold the strip loosely (adhesive-side in) for a few minutes to let it relax and absorb the moisture.

Position the top of the strip at the ceiling, aligning one edge with your plumb line. Smooth it down from top to bottom using a wallpaper brush or plastic smoother, working out air bubbles as you go. Overlap the next strip slightly, then use a seam roller to press the seam flat. Trim excess paper at the ceiling and baseboard with a utility knife, using a straightedge as a guide.

Continue across the wall, checking your plumb line every few strips to catch any drift. When you reach a corner, measure the distance from the last strip to the corner. If it's less than the wallpaper width, cut a strip lengthwise to fit, then use the leftover piece to start the next wall. This keeps the pattern aligned and avoids visible seams in corners.

Dealing with obstacles like outlets and windows

When you reach an electrical outlet or light switch, hang the wallpaper over it as if it weren't there. Use a utility knife to cut an X from corner to corner over the outlet, then fold the flaps back and trim them flush with the outlet opening. Turn off power at the breaker before removing the outlet cover to tuck the wallpaper edges behind it.

For windows and doors, hang the strip as usual and let it overlap the frame. Use a straightedge and utility knife to cut along the frame edge, removing the excess. If the window is large, you may need to seam the wallpaper in the middle of the opening rather than trying to wrap it around the entire frame—this looks cleaner and is easier to execute.

Alternatives if you decide against wallpaper

If you remove the old wallpaper and decide you prefer paint, the wall prep is the same. Prime and paint with a finish suitable for walls—typically a satin or eggshell sheen that resists moisture and is straightforward to clean. Paint is faster than wallpaper and gives you more color flexibility, though it shows imperfections more easily than patterned paper.

Another option is to leave the wall bare and primed, then add texture with a spray-on finish like popcorn or knockdown texture. This hides minor wall flaws and adds visual interest without the commitment of wallpaper or the flatness of plain paint. Texture is permanent and difficult to remove, so test it on a small area first.

When to call a professional

If the old wallpaper won't come off after repeated soaking, or if removing it damages large areas of drywall, a professional wallpaper removal service can save time and prevent costly repairs. They have commercial-grade removers and tools that work faster than home methods.

If your walls are severely uneven, have deep cracks, or show signs of water damage or mold, address those problems before hanging new wallpaper. A professional painter or drywall contractor can assess whether the wall is salvageable or needs repair. Wallpaper won't hide structural problems—it will only make them worse as moisture gets trapped underneath.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to change wallpaper in a typical bedroom?

Removing old wallpaper takes 4 to 8 hours depending on how well it comes off. Wall prep takes another 2 to 4 hours. Hanging new wallpaper in a standard bedroom takes 6 to 10 hours spread over two days, since adhesive needs time to set between coats. Plan for a full weekend.

Can I hang new wallpaper directly over old wallpaper?

No. Old wallpaper will eventually peel, taking the new layer with it. The adhesive won't bond properly to a slick surface, and any moisture trapped between layers will cause mold. Always remove the old layer first, even though it takes extra time.

What's the difference between pre-pasted and unpasted wallpaper?

Pre-pasted wallpaper has adhesive already applied to the back; you set up it by soaking the strip in water. Unpasted wallpaper requires you to explore adhesive with a brush or roller. Pre-pasted is faster and messier to set up; unpasted gives you more control over adhesive coverage. Both work equally well if applied correctly.

Why is my wallpaper bubbling after I hung it?

Bubbles usually mean air got trapped under the paper or the adhesive wasn't applied evenly. Smooth bubbles out when ready with a brush or smoother while the adhesive is still wet. If bubbles appear after the wallpaper dries, you can inject adhesive under the bubble with a syringe and smooth it flat, but prevention is easier than repair.

Do I need to prime the wall before hanging wallpaper?

Yes, if any bare drywall is exposed. Primer seals the drywall so it doesn't absorb moisture from the adhesive unevenly, which causes the wallpaper to bubble or wrinkle. Primed walls also make it easier to remove wallpaper later. If the wall was previously painted and is in good condition, primer is optional but recommended.